Topic: Bluing technique

[Stangly]

 I used this technique about a month ago on my steering parts and they turned out great.  I noticed after a month now that  I'm getting some rusting in various places.  These are the steps I used to prep the parts.  I blasted and wire wheeled the parts, applied the blueing and sealed with a satin clear.  The only thing I can come up with is there was still rust in the metal pores.  I didn't wipe them clean with a degreaser prior to applying the blueing wondering if that is the cause.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[Bob Gaines]

I used this technique about a month ago on my steering parts and they turned out great.  I noticed after a month now that  I'm getting some rusting in various places.  These are the steps I used to prep the parts.  I blasted and wire wheeled the parts, applied the blueing and sealed with a satin clear.  The only thing I can come up with is there was still rust in the metal pores.  I didn't wipe them clean with a degreaser prior to applying the blueing wondering if that is the cause.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

moisture can and will migrate through the clear coat depending on the humidity it is exposed to over time. the best thing to do is strip the tag,refinish the piece and then use a product like T9 from Boeing company (yes the jet people). Boe shield is another name it is refered to by. A friend treated some bare metal upper control arms and left them outside in the elements of the winter (Indiana) . No rust come the spring thaw. You can get it on line. This will keep the part from rusting. As a alternative you can refinish the part clear it again and then ad the T9 product for a additional insurance . I hope this helps.

[Stangly]

I wouldn't have thought of that, but that makes total sense because there is no primer protecting the metal.  I have used T9 on the parts I have parkarized and they look great after several months.

Thank you

[CharlesTurner]

A step often overlooked is rinsing the parts with water after bluing.  The key to that is making sure all the water is out if the metal before applying any protectant.  To do that, something like a map gas torch can be used.  You'll see the water evaporating off the surface, so you'll know it is dry.  I like to apply boeshield while the metal is still hot.

[Stangly]

Charles,

This sounds very similar to oil quenching, and it sounds like you and Bob both agree that Boeshield is a necessary step in the process.  I would presume then that I would need to reapply the corrosion prohibitor at least yearly.

What do you think about soaking in Evaporust and rinsing before applying the bluing, to ensure all of the rust in gone.

Thank you both for the great suggestions I will give these tips a try.

[Bob Gaines]

Charles,

This sounds very similar to oil quenching, and it sounds like you and Bob both agree that Boeshield is a necessary step in the process.  I would presume then that I would need to reapply the corrosion prohibitor at least yearly.

What do you think about soaking in Evaporust and rinsing before applying the bluing, to ensure all of the rust in gone.

Thank you both for the great suggestions I will give these tips a try.

I would suggest doing it once a year wether it looked like it needed it or not just for insurance and piece of mind  . Bob

[Stangly]

Thanks again guys, the parts turned out great I'm glad I took the time to redo them.

[J_Speegle]

What do you think about soaking in Evaporust and rinsing before applying the bluing, to ensure all of the rust in gone.

You don't have to specifically use BioShield (there are other similar produces - but a good micro film protectant is a must)

If I was going to use Evaporust and rising before the bluing I would heat the part with a torch between the steps to remove any water from in the pores of the piece and then again after the bluing before the oil coat as mentioned