Topic: 68 FE smog system

[68 S Code]

I think I may have a small issue with the smog setup install. All the parts and hoses are original with the exception of one hose. I'm looking at a pic that Tim L sent me of a CJ and I notice that the drivers side tube and check valve is sitting up pretty high over the motor. the best way to describe it is that the top of the canister lines up with the bottom of the check valve if you draw a line across from side to side. My check valve is pretty much in line with the canister or maybe even a touch lower. There is no way to make any adjustments on the tube as the length on the small cylinder head tubes and ferrules is fixed. It was a bear to get the mounting bracket, coil strap, engine tag and the bolt to all come together but I sweat ed it out in the garage with temps over 100 and got it done. This car has no AC and the one in Tim's pic does. Were there two sets of drivers side tubes for AC and without? I'm sure that the canister bracket mounts to the intake manifold radiator neck at the upper LH side bolt so the canister height is fixed. The S hose goes below the heater hose. Everything else seemed to come together OK.

[Bob Gaines]

I think I may have a small issue with the smog setup install. All the parts and hoses are original with the exception of one hose. I'm looking at a pic that Tim L sent me of a CJ and I notice that the drivers side tube and check valve is sitting up pretty high over the motor. the best way to describe it is that the top of the canister lines up with the bottom of the check valve if you draw a line across from side to side. My check valve is pretty much in line with the canister or maybe even a touch lower. There is no way to make any adjustments on the tube as the length on the small cylinder head tubes and ferrules is fixed. It was a bear to get the mounting bracket, coil strap, engine tag and the bolt to all come together but I sweat ed it out in the garage with temps over 100 and got it done. This car has no AC and the one in Tim's pic does. Were there two sets of drivers side tubes for AC and without? I'm sure that the canister bracket mounts to the intake manifold radiator neck at the upper LH side bolt so the canister height is fixed. The S hose goes below the heater hose. Everything else seemed to come together OK.

no there is not two different driver side smog tubes one for A/C and one for no A/C. There is a way to make adjustments. You can gingerly grip the top of the tube with both hands and bend the tube for adjustments . The driver side tube will be higher the the passenger side . It would be prudent to get some original vintage photos to get a idea of where you want to be . I have seen numerious slight assemblyline variations in height and angle of the hose/tube. Of course verify the short tube length that goes between your canister on the check valve on your smog tube before adjustments. I hope this helps. Bob

[TLea]

That picture (if its the one I think it is) is not one of my projects so I don't know if its and original tube or repop. I've always had to "adjust" the repop tubes to get them to line up correctly.

[68 S Code]

I did find a picture of what looks to be a 69 SCJ as there is an oil cooler adapter and a fuel pup which could be rebuilt. Looks like the one on my old boss 302. In this pic the tube with the check valve is also sitting up much higher and there is no AC or even PS on it. The bracket which mounts at the coil is completely different. It has a tall verticle leg where mine is really more horizontal. The second to last pic is of a messed up smog tube I have which shows the taller leg. In the shot where you see the hose between the canister and check valve you can see the reason i am questioning my set-up. The check valve is almost below the center line of the canister. But I cant see how I could make the tubes grow vertically. Last pic is to show the S hose and the way I routed it. Is that OK?

[Bob Gaines]

It is more typical to see the check valve on the driver smog tube taller then the the centerline of the canister then even with or below. I have never seen a original tube in the position you show in your picture. It appears that your smog tube has been bent down dramatically. No wonder you had trouble with lining up the coil,engine tag,bracket and bolt. The picture of the "messed up tube " looks more normal then what you have installed on the car now. I think you can man handle it back into shape however. I would try doing it bolted in place. you don't have anything to lose. Bob

[TLea]

Clearly that tube has been seriously reworked and is much too low. The tube should be almost parallel with cannister. The bend in the tube bracket forms a recess to allow the coil positioning,

[Bob Gaines]

The good point the Tim brought up is that the contour of the strap is to give clearance to the coil . Your coil should be reversed with the terminals facing the firewall and the coil rotated so the center plug wire ternimal is towards the valve cover and the two terminals one on top and one below are on the carb side. Bob

[68 S Code]

In the pic Tim provided I now see that the hose running across is almost straight across. My mounting bracket is way off as Bob pointed out. My only fear is that I ruin the smog line. It seem i would have to bend it upright where it joins the small tube leading to the first cylinder on drivers side. Then there will be more bending at the mounting bracket. I too noticed that I mounted the coil backwards. Everytime I think I get a little closer to installing the radiator and hoses I find myself going backwards. Now the double alternator belt doesn't want to fit. Seems to be 2 or 3 inches short and that with the alternator pushed inboard as far as the case will allow. I've got the right crank pulley, alternator pulley and I believe the right waterpump pulley. Brackets look ok so I don't know why the belts seem short. I dont know if the sway bar is up high limiting the adjustment arm from swinging inboard towards the crank pulley because the car is up in the air with the lower control arm hanging down. I believe that once the arms compress the sway bar moves a bit.

[TLea]

The problem is not bending the big part of the tube to be straight its the fact that youu then have to reconfigure the flat strap to fit with the new geometry. I've gotten pretty good at it but it takes some time.

[Bob Gaines]

I think when you bend the tube back in place (one hand down low and one hand up by the check valve the strap will comeback into the relative correct position. This is best done bolted in place like it is now. I have had to do it many times. I wouldn't stress over perfection like in Tims picture . It is much more normal to see the tube off a little . I would venture to say when the smog was installed there was some "field fitting involved". Just my observations. Bob

[68 S Code]

I'd try it tonight but the 98 degree air temps and high humidity is unbearable. The garage is even hotter. Well its good to know that some twseaking is not out of the ordinary. Mine may be a little more excessive but we will see what happens. I will try to get it to look right. Bob when you say try it with it bolted in place do you mean with the coil bolt installed at the strap as well?

With the Alternator belt problem I had my younger son check to see if smog belt and PS belts fit. They do so I dont know why the alternator belt seems short. I've checked all the pulleys crossreferencing whats listed on Mustang Tek site and it all checks out. Only the waterpump pulley is unstamped but the dimensions match whats listed as being correct.

[Bob Gaines]

I'd try it tonight but the 98 degree air temps and high humidity is unbearable. The garage is even hotter. Well its good to know that some twseaking is not out of the ordinary. Mine may be a little more excessive but we will see what happens. I will try to get it to look right. Bob when you say try it with it bolted in place do you mean with the coil bolt installed at the strap as well?

With the Alternator belt problem I had my younger son check to see if smog belt and PS belts fit. They do so I dont know why the alternator belt seems short. I've checked all the pulleys crossreferencing whats listed on Mustang Tek site and it all checks out. Only the waterpump pulley is unstamped but the dimensions match whats listed as being correct.

   Yes. Bob

[68 S Code]

Thanks for the suggestion. I will take coil off and tag first then give it a go.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks for the suggestion. I will take coil off and tag first then give it a go.

I would leave the coil in place . I don't think it will be in the way plus it's base will keep the strap from trying to roll up during repositoning.  Bob

[68 S Code]

Good point. Maybe I will turn it around so the brace doesn't hit the snoot of the coil. I'll wrap the end to keep it from accidentally getting scratched. I'll let you know how it works out.

i think I have the alternator belt issue figured out. marti auto works shipping two new belts today so hope to have them by weekend.