Topic: Floor plugs

[68 S Code]

Anyone ever try re-galvanizing their floor plugs.one are in nice rustfree shape but the bright galvanized finish has disappeared on the exposed side. Nice on the interior side. What do thr screws  look like which hold them in place. Last question is regarding the sealant. Would it be applied after plug is mounted or before? If before I'd it on the floor pan or on The plug?

[svo2scj]

mine came up with the caulk stuck to the plug (on right) The one on the left is for shock plug.   Might be because of "bite" it got to the steel or how I pried it off.
You can see the old putty has turned a whiter/chalkie substance.

Put back with this
  it is too gray IMO

Mark

[TLea]

Strip caulking goes between plug and floor. Early 68s used a zinc pan head like the 67s, later a smaller hex head phoshate screw. Sometimes you'll also see sealer brushed over the top of the interior side of the plug

[CharlesTurner]

Hot tin dipping and then rubbing with a chrome polish will bring out some of the galvanized "spangle."

[68 S Code]

Tim you are correct in that two of them covered in black sealer. Soaking in Xylene to try to break it up for removal. Charles, "spangle" is a good word to describe the finish. Though I'm not sure if it's tin I soaked two in evaporust without the usual phospherous green reaction like on gas filler neck or radio case.

[CharlesTurner]

Spangle is the correct technical term when referring to the crystalline surface appearance of hot-dip galvanized metal.  I guess tin dip and zinc dip (galvanization) have similar surface appearances on coated parts.

[J_Speegle]

mine came up with the caulk stuck to the plug (on right) The one on the left is for shock plug.   Might be because of "bite" it got to the steel or how I pried it off.
You can see the old putty has turned a whiter/chalkie substance.

Put back with this
,,,,,,,,,,  it is too gray IMO
Mark

Agreed - that "NOS" stuff from the 80's is way to light for my taste and when compared to the original stuff


68 S Code - many of us are doing the "fake" galvanizing - Can;t find anyone that does modern galvanizing that looks right

[68 S Code]

Charles I believe galvanizing from specifications i've read is "rich in zinc".

Jeff, you can use Rich instead of S Code. Fake galvanizing is zinc paint used to touch up galvanized fencing? If fence guy do any welding of the tubing then they are supposed to clean the area and use "cold applied galvanizing rich in zinc".

SVO2 I'm not sure which plant your car is from but Dearborn 68's didn't use rope caulk as the seal. below is an example of a dearborn plug. Almost looks like it was out of a industrial grade caulking gun. Hopefully you can zoom in and pan over to the plug. It almost looks like it was applied to the plug and then it oozed out when it was screwed on.

 

[J_Speegle]

Jeff, you can use Rich instead of S Code. Fake galvanizing is zinc paint used to touch up galvanized fencing? If fence guy do any welding of the tubing then they are supposed to clean the area and use "cold applied galvanizing rich in zinc".

What we've been doing (did a license plate holder and the large metal shields behind the headlights as well as the floor drain plates on the 69 Shelby) is plate the piece in zinc then over spray with a layer of phosphate rattle can and silver rattle can then daub with a heavy plastic bag (I use a freezer bag) and lift. The bag produces somewhat geometric shapes lifting the paint exposing the plating below.

Worked for me - and not a single judge realized it (unless they knew before hand) - though one reported that "he knew it all the time " 


Have an article for this site part done with will be published when done

[68 S Code]

WOW! I tip my hat to you that's incredible. Very accurate looking.  You were able to reproduce that on the opposite side as well in the cupped area?

[svo2scj]

Sorry have been looking at the wrong side of the floor (SJ 4-69)


This shows how much caulk much better.


Have to remember to respect the plants -sorry
Mark

[J_Speegle]

WOW! I tip my hat to you that's incredible. Very accurate looking.  You were able to reproduce that on the opposite side as well in the cupped area?

Yes you can do surface - always be aware of parts (like rivets or post) that might have been added after the galvanizing plating and simply mask them and treat them differently.

Nooks and corners are more difficult to do since getting the plastic in those tight quarters takes more effort. One good thing is that since the parts are plated you can simply strip them with thinner and start over if you don't like the finish. You can also spray the rattle cans (both) on a slick surface and daub the plastic in the mixture then on the part to touch up or improve your pattern. The multiple layers of paint also reproduces the irregular surface found on Galvanized.

Not perfect but it worked for me

[68 S Code]

Jeff so if I understand this correctly after plating spray grey and then immediately followed with  silver and then while both are wet get going with the plastic baggie.

[Bob Gaines]

Jeff so if I understand this correctly after plating spray grey and then immediately followed with  silver and then while both are wet get going with the plastic baggie.

Jeff said-"a layer of phosphate rattle can " . The zinc phosphate rattle can is a  different  product then the spray cast iron gray rattle can. Eastwood sells both. The phosphate is a darker shade. Jeff what works best? Bob 

[J_Speegle]

What worked best for me  is a coat of zinc phosphate from Eastwood and a cast blast color. I suggest you play around with the cans you have on hand- your looking for a contrast between layers. Remember that if its warm the paint will dry quickly so you have to work fast. Takes some effort but that is the fun (as well as the success and satisfaction  in the long run) of DIY