Topic: enamel or base clear

[Road Reptile]

    Hi to all on this subject of paint,
 After reading this it is quite obvious that some people are not aware of recent changes in the world,regarding paint and its chemical content.The new stuff out, is way different than what was used to paint your vintage car originally.You must be careful for several reasons-the biggest ones are color match,and depth.Any base/clear paint will give more depth than the original single stage did.The most difficult effect to duplicate is the out of the gun "peel" that factory paint had.This is very important on/with any non-solid color.The best advice is talk to the painter,and explain what you desire,and why.Please remember EVERYONE can see the exterior  paint,and it is what really gives a car some identity.Also nothing seems as durable as factory applied paint,regardless of its age...wonder why? most of it is due to the amount that is sprayed on.Factory paint is very thin,and heat cured to speed up production,and flow it out to an acceptable level of peel.Sorry if this is boring.Just trying to help out.
                                         R.R.

[sparky65]

Also nothing seems as durable as factory applied paint,regardless of its age...wonder why? most of it is due to the amount that is sprayed on.Factory paint is very thin,and heat cured to speed up production,and flow it out to an acceptable level of peel.

I always thought the reason factory paint was more durable was because it was baked on.  I am curious does anyone know why the thinner paint is more durable?
I am also starting to think that with the newer tools and paints available to many body shops the difference in durability may be less.

[J_Speegle]

I agree in that IMHO the newer paints and products are not as long lasting as the older stuff. Have a number of cars that were painted in the 80's and they have held up fine (no sand out or buffing). Have cars and parts (BC/CC)  that have peeled and lifted after 5 years.

Believe that like many other things in our lives the new stuff is designed to last just a bit longer than the average ownership length

[Brant]

As far as the newer products lasting and being durable, it all has to do with the preparation and application.  Most folks do not want to spend the time or money (or don't have the talent) to do this properly.  If they do though, the new materials are absolutely fantastic.

[thefordshow]

As far as the newer products lasting and being durable, it all has to do with the preparation and application.  Most folks do not want to spend the time or money (or don't have the talent) to do this properly.  If they do though, the new materials are absolutely fantastic.

  +1, its all in the prep and following the tech sheets.

[Dave Stribling]

When we paint a concours car or high end driver, we use single stage paint.  On modified cars or super nice drivers, we use base/clear.  A good judge can tell the difference on a high end concours car.  Base/clear is much deeper and prettier.  The Guys on Barrett Jackson were kinda picky on that this year.

The orange peel was not originally made by the paint guns and setups back in the day.  The orange peel was a result of the heat lamp curing process.  Remember these cars were painted back with high pressure guns and paint that could kill you.  The orange peel was a result of the curing process (kinda like wrinkle finish valve covers  ). 

Todays HVLP guns actually have more orange peel traits than the old guns (we use to crank the pressure in the good ol' days), but because of the clearcoat systems you can work a lot of the peel out of the paint. 

Base/Clear allows for more UV protection, acid rain resistance, MUCH easier to paint metallics (anyone remember putting ball bearings in their Binks no 7 spihon feed cup?) and a much deeper finish, but if you are going high end concours you should shoot single stage.

Dave

[J_Speegle]

................... (anyone remember putting ball bearings in their Binks no 7 spihon feed cup?) and a much deeper finish, but if you are going high end concours you should shoot single stage.

Yes but used new 9/16 & 1/2" nuts

Still didn't make me a good painter LOL

[mustangmann]

  Hello all;
Long ago, I restored a '70 Mach 1 in Grabber Blue single stage.  My painter suggested that if I chose to color sand and buff the finish, I would shorten the life of the paint because he said that as the paint cures, the solvents,  and uv protectors rise to the surface.  Color sanding and buffing the "orange peel" off removes these "protectors" and shortens the life of the paint.  I restored the car in 1992, and I saw the car up close last fall, and it looks great!  It was painted in PPG Deltron.

Also, In my area (southern Oregon), I have found it impossible to locate a painter who will paint single stage metallics.  They all look at me like I am crazy!  (I restore Mustangs, but do not do the paint).  Has anyone else had this problem?  Maybe in a larger metro. area, there are a few "old timers" who have painted single stage metallics over the years, and it is no big deal.

Ken Mann

[sparky65]

Also, In my area (southern Oregon), I have found it impossible to locate a painter who will paint single stage metallics.  They all look at me like I am crazy!  (I restore Mustangs, but do not do the paint).  Has anyone else had this problem?  Maybe in a larger metro. area, there are a few "old timers" who have painted single stage metallics over the years, and it is no big deal.

Ken Mann

I had trouble just trying to find a supplier for single stage paint in the area.  I could special order it but I started to worry that if I ever needed to have someone try to match the paint I would have trouble.

[CharlesTurner]

My painter was crazy enough to accommodate me and spray vintage burgundy in single stage.  The results are stunning, but of course, touch-up is a pain!

 

[PetesPonies]

Also, understand that just because its SS doesn't mean its not durable. There are urethane SS paint systems, much more durable than an AE system.