Topic: Hood hinge and latch plating

[Ashley]

Recently bought NOS hood hinges and latch for 10-21-66 build date 67 SH coupe. What plating was used on hinges, latch and catch bar. Thanks

[CharlesTurner]

Phosphate/oil

[Ashley]

Thanks for reply, is the phosphate/ oil correct for springs as well.  Thanks again

[jwc66k]

Thanks for reply, is the phosphate/ oil correct for springs as well.  Thanks again

Because the spring are heat treated steel, they are noticeably darker, almost black. I use Eastwood darkener prior to phosphating (I don't know if it's still available or sold separately.) See attached (they are from my 66 GT Fastback). Use an oil (your choice) to keep them from rusting.
Did you read "Phosphating 101", located in "Restoring" - sub-section "Processes, Products & Techniques"?
Jim

[J_Speegle]

Thanks for reply, is the phosphate/ oil correct for springs as well.  Thanks again

Just be careful, if you send them out to be plated, that the springs are not heated as much as they often use for the hinges commercially. The high heat will affect them and they will become brittle and loose ability to stretch as designed

[jwc66k]

Just be careful, if you send them out to be plated, that the springs are not heated as much as they often use for the hinges commercially. The high heat will affect them and they will become brittle and loose ability to stretch as designed

Phosphating is not a plating process in the true sense of the word. It is done in 190 to 200F water with a small percentage of phosphoric acid for a maximum of ten minutes and without an electrical current being used to deposit zinc or any other elements. At the end of that 10 minutes, the parts are rinsed in room temperature water. There is very little chance of hydrogen embrittlement. 
Jim

[J_Speegle]

Phosphating is not a plating process in the true sense of the word. It is done in 190 to 200F water with a small percentage of phosphoric acid for a maximum of ten minutes and without an electrical current being used to deposit zinc or any other elements. At the end of that 10 minutes, the parts are rinsed in room temperature water. There is very little chance of hydrogen embrittlement. 
Jim

Well that isn't what they wanted to do or did last time I paid a professional shop to do the job. And they agreed that their normal temps were too high for the springs so they had a work around. Just my experience 

[jwc66k]

Well that isn't what they wanted to do or did last time I paid a professional shop to do the job. And they agreed that their normal temps were too high for the springs so they had a work around. Just my experience 

Not mine. I was taught the process by two MCA Gold Card Judges over30 years ago. You might know them, Rich and Bruce (who unfortunately has passed away). It's a process that can be easily done at home.
Some pictures of what I did at home.
Here a link that describes it: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphate_conversion_coating - Some of the text is below.
Jim

Phosphate conversion coating is a chemical treatment applied to steel parts that creates a thin adhering layer of iron, zinc, or manganese phosphates to improve corrosion resistance or lubrication or as a foundation for subsequent coatings or painting. It is one of the most common types of conversion coating. The process is also called phosphate coating, phosphatization, phosphatizing, or phosphating. It is also known by the trade name Parkerizing, especially when applied to firearms and other military equipment. 

A phosphate coating is usually obtained by applying to the steel part a dilute solution of phosphoric acid, possibly with soluble iron, zinc, and/or manganese salts. The solution may be applied by sponging, spraying, or immersion. Phosphate conversion coatings can also be used on aluminium, zinc, cadmium, silver and tin.