Topic: 68 Lower Control Arm Bushing Question

[dkknab]

I need to install the bushings on the inner part of the LCA. In the picture you can see the bushing I got from NPD.

Is it the correct bushing for my car?

Does the bushing go in as pictured with the lip on that side of the LCA?

Do you put the rubber bushing in first and then the metal sleeve? Or should the metal sleeve be installed in the rubber bushing first and then the whole thing pressed into the LCA?

[Bob Gaines]

I need to install the bushings on the inner part of the LCA. In the picture you can see the bushing I got from NPD.

Is it the correct bushing for my car?

Does the bushing go in as pictured with the lip on that side of the LCA?

Do you put the rubber bushing in first and then the metal sleeve? Or should the metal sleeve be installed in the rubber bushing first and then the whole thing pressed into the LCA?

That is not what Ford used. That is a aftermarket part meant to be used in a used control arm so that you do not have to press the sleeve out. It is a harder plastic also different then the one piece bushing and sleeve Ford used. It might work however for your needs. It may go unnoticed.

[dkknab]

That is not what Ford used. That is a aftermarket part meant to be used in a used control arm so that you do not have to press the sleeve out. It is a harder plastic also different then the one piece bushing and sleeve Ford used. It might work however for your needs. It may go unnoticed.

I misread that it needed an outer sleeve which I don't have installed.  Here's another bushing listed on NPD. Is this the correct one?

If so does it matter which way it's installed given the lip that is on one side?

[Bob Gaines]

That is a more correct looking style.  You need to confirm the OD of the arm that you are using to make sure you have the right size . I believe that there are two different sizes.  It would make sense to install it the same direction that the one taken out of the arm was done.

[dkknab]

That is a more correct looking style.  You need to confirm the OD of the arm that you are using to make sure you have the right size . I believe that there are two different sizes.  It would make sense to install it the same direction that the one taken out of the arm was done.

The problem is the lower control arms I have don't have any bushings in them and the one that did,  did not have a sleeve and there was no lip on the bushing.

I found this picture of a 69 lower control arm for sale on ebay.  It appears the lip side of the bushing is on the non lip side of the control arm.  Is that correct?

[Bob Gaines]

The problem is the lower control arms I have don't have any bushings in them and the one that did,  did not have a sleeve and there was no lip on the bushing.

I found this picture of a 69 lower control arm for sale on ebay.  It appears the lip side of the bushing is on the non lip side of the control arm.  Is that correct?

I just looked at a pile of 20 68/69 lower control arms and the bushing lip was on the right side as you are looking at the arm.

[dkknab]

I just looked at a pile of 20 68/69 lower control arms and the bushing lip was on the right side as you are looking at the arm.

Bob would you be able to post a picture of 2? Thank you.

And just to confirm is there a fixed sleeve that is a part of the control arm? And then is there a second sleeve that encapsulates the rubber bushing,? As you can tell I'm quite confused.

[Bob Gaines]

Bob would you be able to post a picture of 2? Thank you.

And just to confirm is there a fixed sleeve that is a part of the control arm? And then is there a second sleeve that encapsulates the rubber bushing,? As you can tell I'm quite confused.

You are over thinking it. The bushing in reply 5 is like what is used in the factory arm. You need to make sure the outside diameter is the same as the arm. The rubber bushing is made inside that metal sleeve just as it is represented in reply#5. It is one piece like the picture. THERE IS NO FIXED SLEEVE. You have to be careful pressing in or out because it is easy the collapse the inside of the arm frame if it is not supported . I would suggest that you would be money and time well spent if you have someone who knows what they are doing to press in the bushing and install new boots ,boot retainer and rivets. This effort is useless unless you are using arms with no or hardly any metal pitting IMO.

[Bob Gaines]

If you see a separate metal sleeve with no rubber in it that appears to be fixed in the lower arm is because the rubber has degraded and worn out and separated from the metal part.

[Bob Gaines]

To me restoring a lower control that has anything more then the hint of metal pitting is a exercise in futility given the time ,money and effort it takes to do one. 

[dkknab]

To me restoring a lower control that has anything more then the hint of metal pitting is a exercise in futility given the time ,money and effort it takes to do one.

I think I figured out the bushing deal.  I took the one out of this arm, it was welded in some. Here's what I've ended up so far.

I'm wondering,  does the bushing get installed in the arm before that half is painted or is the arm dipped in paint first and the the bushing installed after, leaving the bushing sleeve natural steel color?

[Bob Gaines]

I think I figured out the bushing deal.  I took the one out of this arm, it was welded in some. Here's what I've ended up so far.

I'm wondering,  does the bushing get installed in the arm before that half is painted or is the arm dipped in paint first and the the bushing installed after, leaving the bushing sleeve natural steel color?

Yes everything is done that has to do with refurbishing the arm before doing the last thing which is to dip the arm.

[Bob Gaines]

I think I figured out the bushing deal.  I took the one out of this arm, it was welded in some. Here's what I've ended up so far.

I'm wondering,  does the bushing get installed in the arm before that half is painted or is the arm dipped in paint first and the the bushing installed after, leaving the bushing sleeve natural steel color?

That arm needs to be bead blasted one more time as it is not clean enough IMO. The back end is not that critical but the end from the jack tabs to the ball joint are what you are going to see after dipping in paint. After bead blasting or cleaning I would typically put it in my big tumbler for the best finish compared to new.

[dkknab]

That arm needs to be bead blasted one more time as it is not clean enough IMO. The back end is not that critical but the end from the jack tabs to the ball joint are what you are going to see after dipping in paint. After bead blasting or cleaning I would typically put it in my big tumbler for the best finish compared to new.

I can bead blast but not tumble.  Would you happen to have a picture of one that would pass muster? Or should I use new repro arms as a rule of thumb?

[Bob Gaines]

I can bead blast but not tumble.  Would you happen to have a picture of one that would pass muster? Or should I use new repro arms as a rule of thumb?

If your repro arms are new and fresh you could use the repro arms as a rule of thumb. You do realize that a good repro arm would pass muster in the class you are in which would eliminate the need for all of the work that you are about to do. Not meaning to be hurtful I say this because I am concerned that your DIY lower arms will not come out better than the good repros in workmanship and appearance. I will answer your next question before you ask. I have seen some that have a good look but since I don't keep track of them I couldn't tell which one is best to use. Maybe others can.