Topic: Starting Problems Help

[ClevelandKid]

Having starting problems with my 70 351C I have a new alternator and new starter solenoid. My Battery reads 12.4V turned off and 14.4 while running. It won't start with out the battery jumper on The solenoid makes that gnarling noise when you turn the key on. But if I put my remote jumper on the battery it fires right up. Could it be the starter? I bought it at Auto Zone in 2005 and has a life time warrenty. But have only 500 miles on the starter. Cleaned off all cable connections. Any help would be appreciated.

[RocketScientist]

I had a similar problem and it was as simple as a poor connection between the battery terminals and cables - not good enough to start the car but Ok when running.

[dave6768]

It's very possible the starter solenoid is bad out of the box.  Ask me how I know.

[67350#1242]

Really sounds like battery.  Try starting with voltmeter on battery and watch for drop.  Static voltage across the battery doesn't tell you much, but when drawing current you can tell how strong the battery really is.

[rhjanes]

Really sounds like battery.  Try starting with voltmeter on battery and watch for drop.  Static voltage across the battery doesn't tell you much, but when drawing current you can tell how strong the battery really is.

I agree, sounds like the battery is in the process of failing.  Or run a load test on the battery.   If you don't have a battery Load Tester, take the car up to your auto parts house and let them test it.  Or better yet, take the battery out.  Take it to them.  They will first charge it up and then load test it.   You can ask them to load test it prior to the charge but some seem to balk at that.  I've had batteries doing exactly what you say.  Reading about 12.4 volts static.  Reading the 14+ when running (meaning the alternator and volt regulator is working) and yet starts are sluggish.  A load test shows a failing battery or it it "Dinks" to zero, a shorted battery.  I don't think yours is shorted as you are still able to mess around and get a start. 

Remember the batteries number one job is starting the car.  After that the charging system is in "charge" (pun intended).

[ClevelandKid]

Ok thanks guys I will try the things suggested. I took the stater out and took it back to Auto Zone.They gave me a free replacement. The one I took out of my car was purchased in 2005. It had a lifetime warrantee. I did try 3 different starter solenoids so I don't think its that. The battery had a manufactured sticker of 5/20. But I haven't driven it much since then.
I'm not much of a spark chaser so again thanks for your tips. I'll report back when I try the things you suggested.

[rhjanes]

Ok thanks guys I will try the things suggested. I took the stater out and took it back to Auto Zone.They gave me a free replacement. The one I took out of my car was purchased in 2005. It had a lifetime warrantee. I did try 3 different starter solenoids so I don't think its that. The battery had a manufactured sticker of 5/20. But I haven't driven it much since then.
I'm not much of a spark chaser so again thanks for your tips. I'll report back when I try the things you suggested.

4+ years old.   On a Battery Tender/Minder?  Otherwise, it's has Sulfated and it is probably the issue.  Batteries are fickle.  Load Test it. 

[ClevelandKid]

Thanks everyone. It was the battery. Put a new one in and liftoff when I turned the key on. Now I just have to reset the auto choke and fast idle. It runs at 2200 rpms with the choke on. Drops down to 850-1000 once it's warmed up. Yea these are all wet tested and adjusted from the factory. NOT !!! Had to adjust the float level too.