Author Topic: Ball Joint rivet installation  (Read 5230 times)

Offline BHStang

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Re: Ball Joint rivet installation
« Reply #15 on: October 16, 2024, 01:14:09 PM »
Having more success now.  The die I am using is not exactly the same waffle pattern but it?s close.  I used an old 1 ton press to hold the die and keep the travel up and down perfectly aligned (that?s the issue with the 12ton). I of course used the 12ton for the actual force, the 1 ton became purely a die holder.  Large bolt beveled out end to cup the bottom of the rivet. 
1970 Mach 1
H Code 351C 2v
DAP June 10, 1970
4 Speed Close
AC, PS, Power disk, Shaker, Rear Spoiler

Offline dkknab

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Re: Ball Joint rivet installation
« Reply #16 on: January 16, 2025, 04:41:31 PM »
Revisiting this thread,  what does the upper die look like and where can I get one? I don't need the waffle impression as my LCAs don't have that feature.

And what size bolt under the rivet to support the rivet,? I'm guessing grade 8 would be preferred.
David Knab

1968 Sunlit Gold Coupe Sprint B
289 2V, AT, PS
Nugget Gold Interior
April 5, 1968 Build Date, Metuchen Plant

2019 Bullitt Highland Green K7662

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Ball Joint rivet installation
« Reply #17 on: January 17, 2025, 03:37:25 AM »
Revisiting this thread,  what does the upper die look like and where can I get one? I don't need the waffle impression as my LCAs don't have that feature.

And what size bolt under the rivet to support the rivet,? I'm guessing grade 8 would be preferred.

Guess your asking about the upper dies used for reproducing the "look" rather than the original dies.  The ones people have made vary a lot to the point to when Rare Parts were doing them they had 24 different waffle patterns made up because so many customers insisted that the others were not correct but their pattern was.

These have been posted before but here are a couple of close ups from original assembly line uppers from April 69 for comparison once you start looking at dies and making choices. Sorry don't know anyone currently that is selling the dies. Maybe someone else does





Interesting to me is that the waffle depressions at the edges do not always extend past the edge of the pattern all the way around as if it was made a specific diameter round and they attempted to center it on the rivet and if off slightly they produced the run over. Just an observation on my part
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline dkknab

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Re: Ball Joint rivet installation
« Reply #18 on: January 17, 2025, 07:43:44 PM »
How about the jig that others use to secure the LCA for riveting? Are there any pictures or suggestions?
David Knab

1968 Sunlit Gold Coupe Sprint B
289 2V, AT, PS
Nugget Gold Interior
April 5, 1968 Build Date, Metuchen Plant

2019 Bullitt Highland Green K7662

Offline dkknab

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Re: Ball Joint rivet installation
« Reply #19 on: January 18, 2025, 03:29:53 PM »
One other question.  Were the rivets hot or cold when installed? Given manufacturers today are still making some riveted ball joints, so they cold rivet or heat up the rivet first? Given the rubber ball joint boot, I'd think you could possibly melt the boot if the rivet is red hot.
David Knab

1968 Sunlit Gold Coupe Sprint B
289 2V, AT, PS
Nugget Gold Interior
April 5, 1968 Build Date, Metuchen Plant

2019 Bullitt Highland Green K7662

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Ball Joint rivet installation
« Reply #20 on: January 18, 2025, 05:33:59 PM »
One other question.  Were the rivets hot or cold when installed? Given manufacturers today are still making some riveted ball joints, so they cold rivet or heat up the rivet first? Given the rubber ball joint boot, I'd think you could possibly melt the boot if the rivet is red hot.
Cold.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby