Topic: A Few Heater Box Questions

[carguytroy]

Rebuilding a heater box for my 67 C code car due to a leaking heater core. Does not look like it's ever been apart. Part number and date code are still on the fan motor which is kinda cool to see. I have a couple of questions on replacement parts.

Heater core is shot. Is one better than another? I have heard not to do the aluminum type, but is there a better copper/brass one from a certain supplier?

It needs a seal kit for sure. It has the door that opens from the bottom up, not to the side. The foam kit I see doesn't look to have the correct piece for that door. Where would be a good source for that type of foam?

Heater hoses are newer but not the striped ones. What's the best source for correct hoses?  I see a white stripe set and a yellow stripe set available through a couple of the vendors. What color should I be getting? Car was built July of 1967 if that's a factor.

The heater hose clamps inside the car are original stuff but the ones in the engine bay are worm gear replacements. Is it best to get some reproductions and what vendor would you recommend? Figured I would go the repro route for now and watch eBay and locally for some original stuff. Seems like I'm on the look out for hardware and such anyway as I see it so something may pop up right?

The cardboard plenum is pretty much totaled. For now I figured I would just snag one of the plastic type and maybe look out for an original and see if one pops up around.

Whoever had the car previous liked to paint things. As in really liked to paint things. The heater box has black paint on it which I don't believe was an original thing. I taped it up to media blast a a couple of the brackets that were surface rusting so I didn't hurt the fiberglass and when I take the tape off some of the paint just comes off, but not all of it. What's a safe way to remove the paint without hurting the box? Is there a mild stripper that won't hurt the fiberglass?

Any other tips, tricks etc would be appreciated. Thanks for the help.

[CharlesTurner]

If the paint is flaking off, try some lacquer thinner to get the rest off.


All the parts you need can be bought at Va Mustang.  Get the brass core.


There are usually original/NOS wittek clamps on ebay.

[Coralsnake]

I have sprayed many cases in the media blaster. Turn you pressure down and dont hold the gun in a single area. Once you have a nice consistent dull gray color, spray it with a clear spray paint.

I will post a picture

[dkknab]

There are usually original/NOS wittek clamps on ebay.

Buyer be ware if you get repro tower wittek clamps.  I got some from NPD and only got 1 or 2 that clamped down symmetrically. I would go the original or NOS route instead as Charles suggests.

[Coralsnake]

blasted case with clear coat close up

[carlite65]

SEM makes a low lustre clear that looks like it is not there. used it many times on quite a few parts.

[Bob Gaines]

SEM makes a low lustre clear that looks like it is not there. used it many times on quite a few parts.

I recently used a home depot sourced matte finish clear rustoleum brand that had a fancy 5 position spray pattern that worked well. It was inexpensive too.  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-12-oz-Custom-Spray-5-in-1-Matte-Clear-Spray-Paint-376868/323255172

[Bob Gaines]

Heater hoses are newer but not the striped ones. What's the best source for correct hoses?  I see a white stripe set and a yellow stripe set available through a couple of the vendors. What color should I be getting? Car was built July of 1967 if that's a factor.

Yes that date is a factor for San Jose. White was typically only in very early 67 SJ production. A solid red stripe is by far the most common in 67 IMO. I heard it was hard to find or they stopped making it.  I am not sure why they stopped making the red stripe for 67 but I don't keep up as good as others on the after market. Yellow was used in later 67 SJ production but not exclusively. If you can't find red I would go with yellow.  I buy from NPD and Virginia Classic .

[carguytroy]

Awesome. Thank you all for the replies. NPD looks to have the red stripe hoses and all the other items. The resistor is in pretty tough shape too. All the connections are loose and want to fall inside when you put a plug on them. The fan switch might be bad. I tested the blower motor and it works. I'm hoping that resistor is why the switch doesn't turn on the fan.

Some of the nuts/bolts are mismatched. I see they also have those. They are listed as concours correct so I'll grab those too.

I sandblasted the metal pieces that were connected to the box. fan housing etc. they look to have been a semi gloss black? The blower motor I taped off where the original markings were and blasted the rest of it. Some of the paint under and around the markings is pretty thin but I thought I would paint it best I could and clear over the original markings. That matte clear you talked about might be the way to go. No one will ever see that part number , but I like the idea that it's still there. The blower motor works good, but I'm wondering if I should take it apart and clean inside. Is that a good idea? Sort of worried about the blast media somehow making its way inside.

Any other tips and tricks you guys have handy would be appreciated.

[krelboyne]

I think Kevin Marti makes the concours heater hoses. I can check next week to be sure.