Topic: Operational Lamp Warning Buzzer ?

[fizzsnob]

Does anyone have a lamp warning buzzer (C6AZ-14931-A) that still works?

I have gone through three, never installed NOS buzzers, and none of the work. I pulled apart one of the metal cans, and it's not entirely clear to me at the moment why it's not working... That will be a task for this weekend.

Does anyone have one that actually works? Does anyone have the schematics for the thing before I spend the time to figure it out?

 Thanks !

       Mike

[jwc66k]

What year Mustang? Are you aware of the Mustang Assembly Manuals? There is an electrical manual for every year from 1964 thru 72.
Jim

[fizzsnob]

So,  this is a Ford accessory that should work with almost every year Mustang after 65.

The point is that all the ones I have found that still exist do not work.  There must be something about them that has aged out and prevents them from working.


I have torn one apart, and it's a clear example of early 60s engineering. Its primitive. If no one else has figured this out yet, I'm going to go figure out why it no longer works.


         Mike

[Bossbill]

A pic of the guts would be useful. And how many pins does it have?

Here is one I found online:
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/james/images/Lightsds12.jpg

It might also work a bit like your car's horn. Switched (+) to an electromagnet that pulls a small diaphragm in. Out when the electromagnet has pulled in all the way which then contacts a set of points that breaks the connection. Back and forth it goes making a buzzing sound.

[fizzsnob]

A pic of the guts would be useful. And how many pins does it have?

Here is one I found online:
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/james/images/Lightsds12.jpg

It might also work a bit like your car's horn. Switched (+) to an electromagnet that pulls a small diaphragm in. Out when the electromagnet has pulled in all the way which then contacts a set of points that breaks the connection. Back and forth it goes making a buzzing sound.

Here is what the inside looks like...

[jwc66k]

Here is what the inside looks like...

Take a look at the contacts and see if they are "fused". Try and separate them "gently". And some continuity checks would also be helpful. Otherwise - round file.
Jim

[ruppstang]

Take a look at the contacts and see if they are "fused". Try and separate them "gently". And some continuity checks would also be helpful. Otherwise - round file.
Jim

I would use a flat file on the points. Haha

[Mike_B_SVT]

And some continuity checks would also be helpful.

^^ This will tell you if it's the buzzer or something in your car's wiring!

Mine (a '70 Cougar) had a compound issue: the buzzer had an open in the coil right where it is soldered to the main wire.  I was able to solder it back together and get good continuity.  However, I also found that the PO had cut the wire for the key buzzer at the turn signal switch connector.  Luckily I was able to re-pin that wire and insert it into the connector again.  Buzzer restored to ...intermittent functionality >.< 
My remaining issue turned out to be a gunked up door jamb switch.  So it would work in warm weather but not in cold weather ~ even though the courtesy lights all worked fine all the time.

Anyhow, I hope that helps, and I hope you are able to get your buzzer working again!

[fizzsnob]

So just to close the loop on this, the buzzer works OK.

It turns out that for some reason the red wire coming off the buzzer is the negative lead, and the black wire is the positive lead.

I'm sure it made sense to somebody back in the 60s.

        Mike

[jwc66k]

I would use a flat file on the points. Haha

I use Swiss Watch Files to do that, as I was taught by my Father.

It turns out that for some reason the red wire coming off the buzzer is the negative lead, and the black wire is the positive lead.

Mike,
One more time, what year and model are you concerned with?
Jim

[fizzsnob]

I use Swiss Watch Files to do that, as I was taught by my Father.Mike,
One more time, what year and model are you concerned with?
Jim

The year and model are not relevant to my issue, but eventually I want to install it in my 1967 coupe.

I was trying it out before installing it, and it did not seem to work.

And as it turned out, it didn't seem to work because the red and black wires coming off of the buzzer do not correctly indicate the polarity for the install. The red and black colors are reversed when it comes to positive and negative. It's not clear to me why they would've done that.

Now that I have connected it "backwards", it works fine. Albeit, it makes a hideous noise :-)

        Mike

[J_Speegle]

............... One more time, what year and model are you concerned with?
Jim

Believe the dealer installed option was available and used for many years and for all Ford and Mercury models. Had a few and installed a couple but don't have those cars or parts any longer


As for sound they make its not a pleasant one but that was the point back then. Too get your attention