Topic: Plating - P&O parts for 67

[68 GT]

A couple of questions about the plating finish on the hood striker and tail light bodies. The hood striker is to be phosphate and oiled, is it magnesium phosphate? The tail light bodies, are they to be cadmium plated?

There was a plating company about 25 miles away from me, but unfortunately I believe they are permanently closed. So I started to search for other companies, about the closest I can find is about 3 hours from me around the Chicago area. I really need to get the hood striker phosphate and oiled soon because my body man will be needing it soon. Figured I may as well figure out what else I should get plated while I?m making a shipment. But I?m not certain what type of plating I need to be looking for. When I search for phosphate and oil services, it comes up with magnesium and zinc phosphate.

How do I ensure I?m shipping something somewhere to be plated that I?m paying for the correct service? Any help/advice would be appreciated. I can see spending the money to get set up to do my own plating, would rather just ship my parts somewhere to be plated by people that know what they are doing.

[J_Speegle]

As far as being sure what your looking for as far as plating goes, is what you wanted and will receive is always part of the "dance" just like any other service done from a distance or even in person. And it does not always work well. Example your good can be completely different from the shop  or owners "good" 

Recommendations from people who used the same service and got the same plating can go along way if its recent. "I want the same plating you put on XXX's hood latch or sticker" gives them reference. Written estimate with the exact details and then still discussing the facts can help though owners can become irritated if pushed to far but then if its not like you want they and you will get irritated anyway.

BTW have you already done the latch? If so where did you use for that process and were you happy?

[68 GT]

Thanks Jeff. Maybe another member will respond with a service they have used. I believe the hood latch got painted semi-gloss black. I guess that isn?t correct since you asked if I?ve already had my latch done?..LOL.

I?ve looked at NPD, Virginia, and CJ, they sell new ones that are either stainless or painted black.

[68 GT]

I noticed that my subject title had been added to, to make it more specific. The car I?m asking about is a 67 we?re restoring. I have a 68 as well, thanks! 😁

[J_Speegle]

Thanks Jeff. Maybe another member will respond with a service they have used. I believe the hood latch got painted semi-gloss black. I guess that isn?t correct since you asked if I?ve already had my latch done?..LOL.

Yes should get some feel back about someone else sending out though allot of people just do P&O at home. So expect those responses

In a pinch have gotten by with gun bluing/steel blacking for small things or a little bit larger, but since your doing it might as well do it right. All in the technique

I?ve looked at NPD, Virginia, and CJ, they sell new ones that are either stainless or painted black.

Can't trust reproductions. Not sure if they reproduce both 67 and 68 or just one and expect people to not know or just get by


Fixed the title again sorry looked at your screen name and went from there 

Since the main focus is on finding a service to send the parts to might move this thread to the services and providers to get more views

[Bob Gaines]

I thought you should know given your reference of possible purchase that any stainless parts will not take the phosphate process like you might expect.

[68 GT]

Maybe someone will offer to do the phosphate and oil for me, I?ll gladly pay someone😊. I have the original hood striker that I will be using. It has not been EvapoRusted, blasted or anything yet. That?s fine for you to move it to services and providers, thanks! Completely agree about reproduction parts, they just simply are not correct. Thanks Jeff!!

[Coralsnake]

Jeff, if you can boil water you can do phosphating. Its literally not even as hard because it doesnt have to boil.

Just do it outside in a well ventilated area.

Manganese phosphate is fine.

[Bob Gaines]

Jeff, if you can boil water you can do phosphating. Its literally not even as hard because it doesnt have to boil.

Just do it outside in a well ventilated area.

Manganese phosphate is fine.

You need a stainless steel pot to use for the process. I have a old stove in my shop to heat the mixture. It has a large vent. Do not try and do it in the kitchen because you will be sorry (fumes and unhappy wife). A propane turkey fryer burner is about ideal .Outside of course. Manganese phosphate can be too dark. The time cooking can adjust the color. Longer cooking= darker, shorter time =lighter. Medium grey was the typical shade for that part.

[jwc66k]

A couple of questions about the plating finish on the hood striker and tail light bodies. The hood striker is to be phosphate and oiled, is it magnesium phosphate? The tail light bodies, are they to be cadmium plated?

Let's do the easy part first. Go to this forum's "Processes, Products & Techniques" section, call up topic "Phosphating 101" and do some reading.
The next part is "opinion". The government has declared cadmium plating to be "dangerous" and therefor, it's now more expensive and fewer plating shops do it. A good alternative is to use dull zinc in place of cad.
Jim

[Bob Gaines]

Let's do the easy part first. Go to this forum's "Processes, Products & Techniques" section, call up topic "Phosphating 101" and do some reading.
The next part is "opinion". The government has declared cadmium plating to be "dangerous" and therefor, it's now more expensive and fewer plating shops do it. A good alternative is to use dull zinc in place of cad.
Jim

Definitely worth the look.