Author Topic: phosphate & oil  (Read 1265 times)

Offline silverelvis69

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phosphate & oil
« on: July 13, 2024, 03:04:33 AM »
Hi Experts,

Are the hood latches, springs , the two shock tower caps(at the top) and hood latch suppose to be phosphate oil finish?

Or did they vary? black and phosphate finish?
« Last Edit: July 16, 2024, 04:34:14 PM by J_Speegle »
1970 Mach1 351 Cleaveland 4V-V8
San Jose built
11/69
Mustang mach1 2-door sports roof
Dark ivy green metallic
FMX select shift automatic transmission.
Ps A/c

Offline specialed

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Re: phosphate oil
« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2024, 10:06:53 AM »
hood springs darkerheat treated i use dark phosphate on springs

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: phosphate oil
« Reply #2 on: July 13, 2024, 01:38:15 PM »
Hi Experts,

Are the hood latches, springs , the two shock tower caps(at the top) and hood latch suppose to be phosphate oil finish?

Or did they vary? black and phosphate finish?
The hood springs were not phosphate and oil. They were the medium to dark finish that spring steel naturally has when processed. There are a number of ways to replicate the finish manganese phosphate (dark) was mentioned. Gun blueing or Eastwoods quick black are others. Although I have never experienced a problem I have read that phosphating the springs can cause the metal to become more brittle. That is not typically a problem in most metals but not something you want to happen to spring steel.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline jwc66k

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Re: phosphate oil
« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2024, 04:40:16 PM »
The hood springs were not phosphate and oil. They were the medium to dark finish that spring steel naturally has when processed.
True. Spring get their "spring" thru a combination of materials, heat treatments and cooling.
There are a number of ways to replicate the finish manganese phosphate (dark) was mentioned. Gun blueing or Eastwoods quick black are others.
Gun blueing doesn't leave a reasonable reproduction of the heat treatment process. Eastwood metal blackening is about as close as you can get. Untreated spring steel, like what is used one hood hinges, has a tendency to "rust". There are ways to reduce that "rust" tendency, apply motor oil periodically, use Boeshield or WD40. (After I do a batch of phosphating, I apply WD40, as recommended by my mentor on the P&O process, a MCA Gold Card Judge, and by my own experience.)
Although I have never experienced a problem I have read that phosphating the springs can cause the metal to become more brittle.
 
There are at least two factors involved in spring deterioration, heat or a chemical reaction.
For the heat part, heating a spring to 500 F (or to red hot) and slowly cooling it will reduce the "spring" of a spring. That type of high heat does not happen to installed parts (except on EVs). Then left alone, the cooled part "flakes" and it loses the real dark color.
For the chemical part, phosphating has been used for decades and I've never heard of the P&O process doing that. (Note: I've been using the phosphate and oil process on car parts, mostly Mustangs, for over 30 years with no problem. I do periodically spray WD40 on my hood springs.)
Jim
I promise to be politically correct in all my posts to keep the BBBB from vociferating.

Offline silverelvis69

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Re: phosphate oil
« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2024, 05:39:58 PM »
I have a spray that will make it close enough- wont know the difference. A frind of mine who restores mustangs uses the spray picture below to make it look phosphate.

But trying to work out fellas for a San Jose 1970 mach1
Which parts in the engine bay mentioned above was phosphate ?

Thanks
« Last Edit: July 13, 2024, 10:01:47 PM by silverelvis69 »
1970 Mach1 351 Cleaveland 4V-V8
San Jose built
11/69
Mustang mach1 2-door sports roof
Dark ivy green metallic
FMX select shift automatic transmission.
Ps A/c

Offline rockhouse66

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Re: phosphate oil
« Reply #5 on: July 14, 2024, 08:16:20 PM »
I think all of the parts you mentioned are P&O but the hinge springs should have a darker look and contrast with the hinges.  I use the gun blue.
Jim
'66 GT FB

Offline Anghelrestorations

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Re: phosphate oil
« Reply #6 on: July 15, 2024, 02:32:08 AM »
Shock tower caps are going to be a semi gloss black....this is for a San Jose built 70 Mustang that original poster is asking about. 
Marcus Anghel
MCA National Gold Card Judge, 69-71 Mustang
SAAC National Head Judge, Boss Mustangs

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Offline J_Speegle

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Re: phosphate oil
« Reply #7 on: July 15, 2024, 03:00:18 PM »
Shock tower caps are going to be a semi gloss black....this is for a San Jose built 70 Mustang that original poster is asking about.

+1 That got skipped over likely due to the title of the thread, the poster seeing a lot of restored Dearborn cars (and others done incorrectly) and other reasons :)
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline DaveF

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Re: phosphate oil
« Reply #8 on: July 16, 2024, 02:35:54 AM »
There is a lot of information available on the internet, and Utube videos can be very helpful. It?s really a pretty simple process. I see a lot of people use WD-40 as the last step in their P&O finishing process. For me, I prefer soaking my parts in Type F transmission fluid. It really seems to give it a richer look than WD-40. IMO.
1970 Mustang Mach One
428 SCJ w/Drag Pak 3.91
Metuchen plant
Built 9/5/1969

Offline specialed

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Re: phosphate & oil
« Reply #9 on: July 23, 2024, 08:30:35 AM »
When u buy the phosphate it comes with its oil in another 5 gallon bucket. Years ago i bought 3 5gallon buckets of phosphate 1 bucket of the dark mag and a bucket of phosphate oil.  Next week i am doing 69 shifters hinges latches hooks coil brackets p/s index shock tops lower control arm adjuster bolts gas pedal rods throttle cable brackets p/s mount brackets hardware etc etc.