Topic: Restoring Aluminun intake

[BMRBill]

Anybody have any ideas on  how to restore large aluminum items such as intake manifolds, oil pan and valve covers? I do not have access to a tumbler that is large enough to tumble them.


Bill Collins

[Bob Gaines]

Bill , give it a lacquer bath with the paint sprayer and scrub - then lacquer bath rinse - dry, then move on to  "Wire  Wheel" cleaner. I think it gives a better look then the aluminum cleaner. I use Eagle brand "wire wheel cleaner ". It is a mild acid. You have to scrub the dickens out of it with a hard bristle "Plastic " brush . Do the wire wheel bath  two or three times or until satisfied. Towel wipe and Blow dry . You can dry between baths to check progress. This works great if no tumbler. I hope this helps. Bob

[BMRBill]

Thanks Bob that is a great idea.

[BMRBill]

Bob,

Just wanted to let you know your suggestion worked great ! I also did some home work on a product called Sharkhide. It is a preservant that was developed back in the 30's for the aircraft industry to protect aluminum skin of airplanes from corrosion. I don't know what it was called back then but I know it was superseated by anodizing. I tried some on the parts and it does not change the color or appearance of the metal in any obvious way. I also tried it on clean bare metal steel and cast iron and it also does nicely. It is kind of pricey, but appears to go a long way. I did several pieces and set them outside to see what weather does, it's pretty impressive. Thought I would pass this find on.

Thanks again
Bill

[Bob Gaines]

Glad it worked for you. That is what this all about . Sharing ideas and helping each other. I look forward to testing the Sharkhide product. Bob

[fourspeed]

As a follow up to this discussion, what would be the preferred method to removing paint from an original vintage aluminum intake that would not compromise the "grain" or appearance of the cast aluminum. Some well meaning seller shot aluminum paint over an aluminum manifold in an attempt to make it look nice and it needs to be removed. The glass beaded manifolds that I have seen seem to have a sharp or slightly coarse look to the casting after glass beading. Is there another restoration method that is better suited? Thanks.

[Bob Gaines]

As a follow up to this discussion, what would be the preferred method to removing paint from an original vintage aluminum intake that would not compromise the "grain" or appearance of the cast aluminum. Some well meaning seller shot aluminum paint over an aluminum manifold in an attempt to make it look nice and it needs to be removed. The glass beaded manifolds that I have seen seem to have a sharp or slightly coarse look to the casting after glass beading. Is there another restoration method that is better suited? Thanks.

I think chemical striping (air craft stripper or eqivelent)and a stiff plastic brush (not steel or brass) is going to work the best for the heavy stuff IMHO. After most of the paint is off you can move on to the lacquer bath .The thinner and stiff brush should get the last of the paint off. With the last of the paint gone you can move on the the acid product bath.  Be sure to wear you safety glasses and have the area protected. The stiff brush will have particles flying everywhere. Bob

[fourspeed]

Bob Gaines, thank you sir for your advice.

[rcgt350]

If an aluminum intake has already been glass beaded, will tumbling take it back to the more correct original finish?
Randy

[Bob Gaines]

If an aluminum intake has already been glass beaded, will tumbling take it back to the more correct original finish?
Randy

Pretty close depending on the media used. Certainly better then the bead blast look IMHO.  The acid wash process described before will also give a superior finish when used after the bead blasting process IMHO. Finding someone who has a a convenient enclosure big enough to tumble a SB intake can be challenging. Bob

[J_Speegle]

Have to be careful (in tumbling/vibrating) since (depending on the media used) you can round out what should be sharp freshly machined surfaces a bit. Also remember to return the machined surfaces (without removing any measurable surfaces) once you get the main body of the intake the color/tone your looking for

[Brant]

Bob,

Just wanted to let you know your suggestion worked great ! I also did some home work on a product called Sharkhide. It is a preservant that was developed back in the 30's for the aircraft industry to protect aluminum skin of airplanes from corrosion. I don't know what it was called back then but I know it was superseated by anodizing. I tried some on the parts and it does not change the color or appearance of the metal in any obvious way. I also tried it on clean bare metal steel and cast iron and it also does nicely. It is kind of pricey, but appears to go a long way. I did several pieces and set them outside to see what weather does, it's pretty impressive. Thought I would pass this find on.

Thanks again
Bill

I see that this particular post is now over a year old.  Man, I'm behind! 

Anyway, any follow up as to how this stuff works on an intake in terms of withstanding heat?  I looked on their web site, and there was no mention of heat resistance.

Thanks.

[oldheap]

It has been quite awhile since the last post here, but I am still curious about the product "Sharkhide". Has anyone used it over time? The link is to a drag racing forum, where it is discussed. You'd think guys who drive in straight lines could stay on topic, but as you read along, they do go off in an "racy" direction!

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=407585

[266ks]

Hi I am a performance and restoration engine rebuilder.The best method we have used to replicate the original finish on aluminum intakes and cylinder heads is a manual blast cabinet with a mix of  (50 grit square and 1/16 round shot)  75% square. Most performance shops have these blast cabinets for covering up modifications to intake and head ports.  Hope this helps.        Bob

[J_Speegle]

Hi I am a performance and restoration engine rebuilder.The best method we have used to replicate the original finish on aluminum intakes and cylinder heads is a manual blast cabinet with a mix of  (50 grit square and 1/16 round shot)  75% square. Most performance shops have these blast cabinets for covering up modifications to intake and head ports.  Hope this helps.        Bob

Does that produce the bright "new" aluminum look or the cast look?

Or just "help" the look of the texture?