Topic: Pwr Convert Top help

[68 S Code]

Tried seeing if the convertible top frame would raise and lower after 25 years of sitting. Installed the wiring from swith to starter relay, popped in a new battery, finished off the electrical connectios, connected the hoses to the pwr cylinders and added some tranny fluid. Crossed my fingers hoping nothing would spring a leak. May as well mention that the top frame was in the up position and unlatched from the header. Pulled on the switch and the pump came to life. Let it run for 30 seconds and saw there were no leaks. Popped open the pump filler plug to see level of fluid and added some 9just started seeing a little fluid at the connection to pump). Filled pump to the top and tried it again. Plastic lines now really started to fill up but no movement of the top! Popped open the plug again figuring the cylinders would take a lot of fluid. Added just a little and tried it again. Still no movement up or down. Figured i would ask here what I did wrong?  Before posting this I started to think whether I should have had the top in the down position to allow the cylinders to fill and push the top up? Seems to me like there could be a large bubble of trapped air in the system but I dont see any way to vent it. All componenets, meaning pump, switch and electrical seem to be working. The the shafts in the cylinders moved freely when no fluid was present and I don't see any leaks it the top external seal which is what i was afraid of. Any recommendations. Trying to get the top operational as I'm getting ready to drop off the car next weekend to have the canvas put on. Help is desperately needed.

[autonomousbronco]

Humm,
When I filled the convertible top pump after I reinstalled the lines, I left the filler plug out of the pump while I cycled the top (place pads underneath and in front of the pump). It may of helped to equalize pressure. I'd also check, if you used teflon tape, that it has not impeded the orifices between fittings. Finally, if you had to rewire, I'd confirm that the switch isn't wired in reverse.

          Best of luck! 

[CharlesTurner]

You just need to keep working it.  Try putting a little rear-ward resistance on the frame while operating the switch.  It sounds like you're pretty close.  Also be sure the top frame pivots are lubricated well.

Remember that there should be some air in the lines for compression.  Too much pressure can blow seals in the motor.

[68 S Code]

I did use Teflon tape at the fittings but fluid seems to be traveling pretty well between the lines from pump. I can try to pull the plug to cycle it maybe some air could escape but from what Charles said maybe I should just keep cycling it some more. So it makes no difference what position the frame was in when I filled the system.

[autonomousbronco]

That's good advice from Charles. I'd try pulling the add plug until you at least have movement. The hydraulic cylinders will take a considerable amount of fluid to fill. Also, make sure that the supply lines don't run dry while your are initially purging the system. I had to have someone hold the switch forward while I added ATF fluid to the pump's reservoir (I recommend a turkey baster). The return lines will have some air bubbles when it reaches the stops, but the sending lines should have a minimal amount of air during operation.

[68 S Code]

Well I talked it over with my son who was my helper yesterday and I think we just need to follow the advice of running the pump while adding fluid. I think we are just way too low on fluid and there is air in the system. Considering the system was completely dry all these years we probably have less or around 1/2 quart of fluid in it. It seems to fill the cylinders and the pump I would guess it will take somewhere between 1 to 2 quarts (just by looking at it). We will give it a try this week again. Staying out of the garage on Mothers Day but the Forum is another thing altogether. The turkey baster is a good idea. I added a rear axle fluid spout to the ATF and it seems to provide good control. Jr found out it works better when you dont press down on the funnel to heavy. You need a little air around the funnel neck for the air to escape so the fluid goes in.

[68 S Code]

Thanks to those who provided words of encouragement and those who provided helpful tips...the top went down. Couldn't raise it all the way but maybe battery needs a charge. Put it on a trickle charger and wi try it again tomorrow. Noticed a little fluid at the top of the LH cylinder but looks to be holding. I'm sure the seals were a little dry after laying dormant these last two decades. Hoping it can cycle a few times tomorrow after an over night charge. Lines are a nice rose color. Keeping my fingers crossed. By the way the turkey baster  tube worked great

[68 S Code]

Well tried it again this evening and the frame only made it up about 1/4 of the way. Basically went vertical but wouldn't start to unfold. With it being just the frame less vinyl and window it's as light as can be. No leaks spotted. All lines are full of fluid with no air pockets. Popped the filler plug to check pump and it's full to the bottom of the plug hole. Battery was on the tricle charger and showed it fully charged. So what's the problem? Does the system now have to much fluid? It all I can think of? Someone mentioned that there should be some air pockets in the return lines. Any suggestions? If I need to order new cylinders I need to do it asap. Not leaking  but not lifting. Shop manual says that if it won't lift replace pump. This one is basically NOS never having been used. I took the reservoir bolt out yesterday and outside of some varnish like build up at the bottom of the can it looked new. Help.

[TLea]

my guess would be pump

[68 S Code]

Spoke with rep from Hydro E Lectric and he gave me some pointers. I will try that method before ordering replacement parts.