Topic: 68 SJ 390 Starter Motor & Solenoid

[bullitt68]

Yes it can be done with good results. I have done it for years. Zinc silver finish. You will have to tape up bottom vent . I do the bracket first then drill out the bottom plate rivets and do the bottom plate separate.

Great Idea I was wondering if you can get replacement rivets? Now if I can find a body in nice shape, I'm in business! What about internals. Can you rebuild them?

[Bob Gaines]

Great Idea I was wondering if you can get replacement rivets? Now if I can find a body in nice shape, I'm in business! What about internals. Can you rebuild them?

You can rebuild them but I don't other then filing contact points. But that is just me. If they need more then that I get another.

[bullitt68]

Working on the starter motor and wondering if it is possible to get some new parts. So far I have not found any parts available (only rebuilt units for sale, no parts). Looking for the  side cover and the gasket. I could repair the side cover, as it has a few dents in it, but if I can get a good replacement that would be better imo. I also need new side bolts (non phillip's)





Also wondering if this band clamp is correct/original. Is dichromate with the same kind of bolt and nut as the brake booster clamp, also bent.



This is the nose I am planning to use, not the one that was on the starter

[bullitt68]

I have a few questions regarding starter finishes. I a not sure where to find this information. My under standing is the starter was painted as an assembly, excpept the aluminum nose was masked off. With that said what would be the correct finishes on the following components.

When I removed the ring it was dichromate inside and under the paint.

The cap I have seen dichromate on replacement units, but not sure how originals were done. I did not see any evidence of dichromate on mine.

The long bolts look like that may have been phosphate.

And the small bent bolt looked to be zinc plated.

[J_Speegle]

I have a few questions regarding starter finishes. I a not sure where to find this information. My under standing is the starter was painted as an assembly, excpept the aluminum nose was masked off.

In most cases the black paint was fogged or tapered from fully painted at the terminal end to a light to nothing dusting at the other end with the iron case being painted.  In some examples one ear was masked of to assure grounding to the bell housing but this has not been found on as many examples. For the record I don't have any FE starter examples with a visible tapped ear or ears on the nose cone 

Original starters with usage often loose the black from the aluminum nose cone before it does on the main body and other steel parts because paint does not stick as well to aluminum and the rougher surfaces

Have examples Happen to for FE's where the zinc dichromate is visible on the cover/cap and the band

[Bob Gaines]

I have a few questions regarding starter finishes. I a not sure where to find this information. My under standing is the starter was painted as an assembly, excpept the aluminum nose was masked off. With that said what would be the correct finishes on the following components.

When I removed the ring it was dichromate inside and under the paint.

The cap I have seen dichromate on replacement units, but not sure how originals were done. I did not see any evidence of dichromate on mine.

The long bolts look like that may have been phosphate.

And the small bent bolt looked to be zinc plated.

I have seen enough original starter components to conclude that the back ring and bendix cover were typically a bare steel .I believe a zinc dichromate indicates a replacement ring which that and the bendix cover are items that can be sourced from after market suppliers to the rebuilder trade. Of course at the end of the day it really doesn't matter what finish because those items along with the long bolts are thoroughly painted black.

[Bob Gaines]

I would mention that after reviewing the picture of your starter core that the stop bolt in the middle of the barrel case is a square drive and not a Philips head . The Philips style is a modern rebuilders part. Have fun changing that out.

[bullitt68]

I would mention that after reviewing the picture of your starter core that the stop bolt in the middle of the barrel case is a square drive and not a Philips head . The Philips style is a modern rebuilders part. Have fun changing that out.

Thanks Bob I have another starter with most of the correct parts and will use the best parts from each to make one correct starter

[bullitt68]

I have seen enough original starter components to conclude that the back ring and bendix cover were typically a bare steel .I believe a zinc dichromate indicates a replacement ring which that and the bendix cover are items that can be sourced from after market suppliers to the rebuilder trade. Of course at the end of the day it really doesn't matter what finish because those items along with the long bolts are thoroughly painted black.

Good point. I will phosphate the long bolts assuming that is how they were finished and plate the short bolt and nut. I will body work the cover and then paint the cover and the ring

[bullitt68]

In most cases the black paint was fogged or tapered from fully painted at the terminal end to a light to nothing dusting at the other end with the iron case being painted.  In some examples one ear was masked of to assure grounding to the bell housing but this has not been found on as many examples. For the record I don't have any FE starter examples with a visible tapped ear or ears on the nose cone 

Original starters with usage often loose the black from the aluminum nose cone before it does on the main body and other steel parts because paint does not stick as well to aluminum and the rougher surfaces

Have examples Happen to for FE's where the zinc dichromate is visible on the cover/cap and the band

Thanks Jeff that is great information

[Bob Gaines]

Good point. I will phosphate the long bolts assuming that is how they were finished and plate the short bolt and nut. I will body work the cover and then paint the cover and the ring

Plated or not, the long bolts and short machine bolt and stove nut get painted black too with the assembly.

[bullitt68]

Plated or not, the long bolts and short machine bolt and stove nut get painted black too with the assembly.

Correct that is my understanding as an assembly

[bullitt68]

Just checking to see if the starter body is correct for my car and which nose would be correct or not. Would it decode as 1968, Sept 23, not sure about the part number. Would those noses be first gen 64 & 65?

[jwc66k]

Just checking to see if the starter body is correct for my car and which nose would be correct or not. Would it decode as 1968, Sept 23, not sure about the part number. Would those noses be first gen 64 & 65?

Use "Ford Car Parts" (aka the infamous MPC) to aid your quest. A link is in this forums library.
Jim

[bullitt68]

Use "Ford Car Parts" (aka the infamous MPC) to aid your quest. A link is in this forums library.
Jim

Great thanks. That explained the starter body, but did not cover the aluminum nose piece. Looks like the article has been updated since the last time I looked at it. Lots of great stuff there.


Interesting that it states that there would be a stamp in the metal casing as well as an ink stamp on top of that