Topic: 68 SJ 390 Starter Motor & Solenoid

[bullitt68]

Wondering what the correct finishes should be on the starter motor. This is one from West Coast Classic Cougar, but I believe the whole starter was painted after it was assembled, except the nose? Looking for a correct photo as I have not been able to find one.

Also on the WCCC site they do not recommend the concourse solenoid fondly referred to as a POS. Has anyone had luck with another product or are originals the way to go. While correctness is great I do want my car to run and drive and be reliable and drivable. No point in having a perfectly correct car that does not drive or run well imo. Call me crazy!

[Bob Gaines]

Wondering what the correct finishes should be on the starter motor. This is one from West Coast Classic Cougar, but I believe the whole starter was painted after it was assembled, except the nose? Looking for a correct photo as I have not been able to find one.


Also on the WCCC site they do not recommend the concourse solenoid fondly referred to as a POS. Has anyone had luck with another product or are originals the way to go. While correctness is great I do want my car to run and drive and be reliable and drivable. No point in having a perfectly correct car that does not drive or run well imo. Call me crazy!

You do not want to copy that starter . It has all of the features of a typical auto parts store after market starter. Keep searching.

[bullitt68]

You do not want to copy that starter . It has all of the features of a typical auto parts store after market starter. Keep searching.

This is one from the 428 CJ website. Not sure if there is any difference between the 390 & 428 visually or otherwise. This is how I thought the starter looked, the way Boss Bill described it to me, but no photo.

[Bob Gaines]

This is one from the 428 CJ website. Not sure if there is any difference between the 390 & 428 visually or otherwise.

That is a better example but still not detailed correctly. Gasket should be under bendix cover and band clamp. There was typically faint black overspray on the nose cone instead of a defined cut line between the nose cone and the center barrel section as in the picture. If you compare the two pictures you posted you can see some other things that are different between the autoparts store starter and the CJ website one. The CJ website starter is more correct. Stamped engineering number on the 68 and up starters hard to come up with . Fortunately for you the 390 starter is easier to come up with compared to the ultra rare CJ version.

[bullitt68]

That is a better example but still not detailed correctly. Gasket should be under bendix cover and band clamp. There was typically faint black overspray on the nose cone instead of a defined cut line between the nose cone and the center barrel section as in the picture. If you compare the two pictures you posted you can see some other things that are different between the autoparts store starter and the CJ website one. The CJ website starter is more correct. Stamped engineering number on the 68 and up starters hard to come up with . Fortunately for you the 390 starter is easier to come up with compared to the ultra rare CJ version.

Thanks Bob. Currently my engineering numbers do not line up, but will see if I can find a good core and then rebuild it. Good point on the SJ version.

[bullitt68]

You do not want to copy that starter . It has all of the features of a typical auto parts store after market starter. Keep searching.

Found one, but no engineering number. What number should I be looking for?

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/334465803881?fits=Year%3A1968%7CModel%3AMustang%7CMake%3AFord&_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D256748%26meid%3Dc7a076a103c345548c342e6f220172c8%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D166174461549%26itm%3D334465803881%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3CPCAuto%26brand%3DFord&_trksid=p4429486.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A334465803881c7a076a103c345548c342e6f220172c8%7Cenc%3AAQAIAAABUObhgc4Nk8%252BdtAwOww4FKLaj%252FQ5qqgDlQCuqZA43WcPFUWDERCUugbbOk7XQv0JXlBfqCg2xKF3WcPghxGMFw2oSlXvfExEaMYr7I7LmrHcP6czY1wIMt0ORyKiCWt95xldincyyBx3g%252BNDW%252B%252FhWUgTaBhK6xAm%252BJIbCOMehu%252Bdw4wRVHyk4%252F0Ewev1vnTGVVHWbrZDXwLAce28wUwzsIimnTeYSmEQfljGnsbrsxYXoEBfGpk7P4ld8HyYd4F2%252FKGGl8XQuN%252Fr7mwlchKIMfn5XmPS4A2SAbYj6lQVCXeHrU8dj377rtXZFmY3svul%252FpuNFev0BUW8Jc6QmUahSXjUiCa62t%252FtIPcVV3xLDFtZITvZvfqGiaCeQB2hiTtIEaRE0Pe6AiT61Y2L7dLqZY9L%252BvB%252F4woV7lFnWQsxSP1I41eheP7HINeVqSZX7AZw2nQ%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A4429486&epid=7022462502

[J_Speegle]

Wondering what the correct finishes should be on the starter motor. This is one from West Coast Classic Cougar, but I believe the whole starter was painted after it was assembled, except the nose? Looking for a correct photo as I have not been able to find one.

If you had an earlier built 68 you could possibly get by with a none stamped in metal version used on earlier cars 

These threads basically cover the standard finishing of a starter or have links to other threads

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16850.msg105575#msg105575

Long thread on the subject

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=14375.0

Also on the WCCC site they do not recommend the concourse solenoid fondly referred to as a POS. Has anyone had luck with another product or are originals the way to go. While correctness is great I do want my car to run and drive and be reliable and drivable. No point in having a perfectly correct car that does not drive or run well imo. Call me crazy!

Originals if you can find one in decent condition may be the way to go though in a fresh bright engine compartment few other than NOS are going to not stand out as used. Anyone try and plate the mounting bracket while it is still connected to the case?   Something I've not had a chance to try

Earlier threads on the C7 solenoids

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=23940.msg149157#msg149157

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11450.msg68641#msg68641

Thread discussing rebuild them

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=12055.15

[bullitt68]

If you had an earlier built 68 you could possibly get by with a none stamped in metal version used on earlier cars 

These threads basically cover the standard finishing of a starter or have links to other threads

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16850.msg105575#msg105575

Long thread on the subject

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=14375.0







Originals if you can find one in decent condition may be the way to go though in a fresh bright engine compartment few other than NOS are going to not stand out as used. Anyone try and plate the mounting bracket while it is still connected to the case?   Something I've not had a chance to try

Earlier threads on the C7 solenoids

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=23940.msg149157#msg149157

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11450.msg68641#msg68641

Thread discussing rebuild them

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=12055.15

Thanks Jef that is great information. Unfortunate that they go through the trouble to make parts look concours correct, but in some cases the emphasis seems to be on look more than fit or function. I have a new reproduction as well as the unit that was in my car when I purchased it. It is definitely an older unit, but not sure if it is original. I will take a photo of it, but as you pointed out, it would look out of place in my engine bay now, but it was fine when it was a driver lol

[rockhouse66]

Regarding the starter solenoid, the troublesome unit is the one from AMK.  There is another one on the market now from Alloy Metal Products and I think it functions properly.  I know Virginia Classic Mustang sells the AMP version and others might as well but confirm which one it is when ordering.

[bullitt68]

Regarding the starter solenoid, the troublesome unit is the one from AMK.  There is another one on the market now from Alloy Metal Products and I think it functions properly.  I know Virginia Classic Mustang sells the AMP version and others might as well but confirm which one it is when ordering.

Thanks Jim that is great news. I used all Alloy Metal Product wiring harnesses. I will look into it.

Here is the aftermarket unit I purchased about 5 years ago so I am not sure if it is an AMK unit





Here is the one that was on my car. Not sure if it is an original unit, however it was plated zinc dichromate.

[ruppstang]

Nether of those are correct. It should have a C7 number and Autolite stamping.

[bullitt68]

Nether of those are correct. It should have a C7 number and Autolite stamping.

Perhaps this is a case where NOS might be the best option. I have not looked for one, but suspect that must cost a pretty penny.

[J_Speegle]

Thanks Jef that is great information. Unfortunate that they go through the trouble to make parts look concours correct, but in some cases the emphasis seems to be on look more than fit or function. I have a new reproduction as well as the unit that was in my car when I purchased it. It is definitely an older unit, but not sure if it is original. I will take a photo of it, but as you pointed out, it would look out of place in my engine bay now, but it was fine when it was a driver lol

Understand and why I asked if anyone had tried plating the metal while still attached to the bakeolite. Have been able to polish the plastic like material on ones in decent shape its the plating that is often the concern. Will have to try plating one that way if someone does not beat me to it or has already tried.

[bullitt68]

Understand and why I asked if anyone had tried plating the metal while still attached to the bakeolite. Have been able to polish the plastic like material on ones in decent shape its the plating that is often the concern. Will have to try plating one that way if someone does not beat me to it or has already tried.

I have plated some parts in a similar way with success. I did the bracket on my brake distribution valve that way and a few other things. Bob Gains recommended electrical tape to keep the plating off the part you don't want plated and it worked well. I can try plating the old solenoid brackets I have and post the results. The tough part is keeping the unwanted media and plating solution from getting inside the part. Standby for the results. I take it that the plating finish should be clear zinc and not zinc dichromate like the old one I have

[Bob Gaines]

I have plated some parts in a similar way with success. I did the bracket on my brake distribution valve that way and a few other things. Bob Gains recommended electrical tape to keep the plating off the part you don't want plated and it worked well. I can try plating the old solenoid brackets I have and post the results. The tough part is keeping the unwanted media and plating solution from getting inside the part. Standby for the results. I take it that the plating finish should be clear zinc and not zinc dichromate like the old one I have

Yes it can be done with good results. I have done it for years. Zinc silver finish. You will have to tape up bottom vent . I do the bracket first then drill out the bottom plate rivets and do the bottom plate separate.