Topic: Engine Paint won't cure hardener issue, strip & repaint! 1968 San Jose

[bullitt68]

One step forward, ten steps backs seems the be the theme of my build, probably why it is taking ten times longer to build. So I had my painter mix up some paint for me and sprayed it, however the paint refused to cure. Not sure what I did wrong with the hardener, but unfortunately I had no choice but to remove the paint. The good news is that the paint came off with wax & grease remover with no pressure, just a quick wipe. Will give it a light scuff with 400 grit sand paper and re apply, this time using the right product with the right ratio's. This will also give me the opportunity to adjust the color and the gloss as the previous paint I used was off just enough to bother me.

Curious what others are using for paint products etc

Not sure of this has happened to anyone else, but it sure his a pain!

[preaction]

PPG

[J_Speegle]

No primer (like done originally) and PPG as listed in a number of threads and recommended everywhere except those that want easier, cheaper and less longevity

[bullitt68]

PPG

ditzler dar PPG 13358, dxr80 urethane hardener, and dx 265 flatting base @ 25% to 30%
Do you have a photo?

[J_Speegle]

ditzler dar PPG 13358, dxr80 urethane hardener, and dx 265 flatting base @ 25% to 30%
Do you have a photo?

Here's a couple

[bullitt68]

Here's one

thanks Jeff, perhaps having to repaint my motor is a blessing in disguise, as I don't think the previous paint I used was spot on

[CharlesTurner]

thanks Jeff, perhaps having to repaint my motor is a blessing in disguise, as I don't think the previous paint I used was spot on

Matching Ford Corporate Blue is kind of like trying to match Guardsman Blue Shelby stripes.... it can vary during production months/years.


I have a low mileage '68 Shelby I'm working on with a lot of original paint on the oil pan.  DAR 13358 painted samples are quite different when put next to it.

[J_Speegle]

Matching Ford Corporate Blue is kind of like trying to match Guardsman Blue Shelby stripes.... it can vary during production months/years.

+1 Some of the variation was likely due to the typical slight variation from batch to batch but mostly a difference between engine plants and different suppliers, so IMHO if your looking to compare look to other engines from the same engine plant as yours. FE for FE, Windsor to Windsor and Cleveland to Cleveland for example. Also except or accept a slight different  between parts that were painted else where and not part of the engine painting such as air cleaners and especially engine lift hooks

[Bob Gaines]

 I would not trust the paint to use again. What do they say about doing the same thing again and expecting different results? I am skeptical it was your paint to hardener mixer.  I had a restoration friend who earlier this year had the non hardening paint happen on a entire car .  The Glasurit Paint company  determined that it was a bad batch of paint. He had to wipe off entire car with wax and grease remover.He was compensated for materials and much of the time but not the stress and anguish.  Your PPG base paint could be bad too. Just saying.

[bullitt68]

I would not trust the paint to use again. What do they say about doing the same thing again and expecting different results? I am skeptical it was your paint to hardener mixer.  I had a restoration friend who earlier this year had the non hardening paint happen on a entire car .  The Glasurit Paint company  determined that it was a bad batch of paint. He had to wipe off entire car with wax and grease remover.He was compensated for materials and much of the time but not the stress and anguish.  Your PPG base paint could be bad too. Just saying.

Thanks Bob that is great info. FYI the product I used was Nason, which I have used successfully in the past. I am having a hard time finding PPG in Canada in a single stage. My painter told me that the paint activator stalled, which he has seen before. I do know that I used the wrong activator now.



So I am trying to source the PPG paint. Short of that I can try to match the paint using this as a sample

[warwick]

I use PPG, but not on the engine.  I would suggest Bill Hirsch on engines-I have used it for some time (decades)-it is an aircraft enamel, no hardener required also goes direct (no primer) on cast iron. It really lasts. On my 68 FE it was an excellent color match.

[warwick]

I just saw that pic of your engine on your restoration thread-your San Jose color looks much lighter than my Dearborn FE. The Bill Hirsch is darker than your engine.

[bullitt68]

I just saw that pic of your engine on your restoration thread-your San Jose color looks much lighter than my Dearborn FE. The Bill Hirsch is darker than your engine.

Do you have a photo?

[bullitt68]

I use PPG, but not on the engine.  I would suggest Bill Hirsch on engines-I have used it for some time (decades)-it is an aircraft enamel, no hardener required also goes direct (no primer) on cast iron. It really lasts. On my 68 FE it was an excellent color match.

Jeff posted some photos above that are darker than the paint I used on my motor

[bullitt68]

I just saw that pic of your engine on your restoration thread-your San Jose color looks much lighter than my Dearborn FE. The Bill Hirsch is darker than your engine.

Here is a better photo of the paint