Topic: Engine Paint won't cure hardener issue, strip & repaint! 1968 San Jose

[RoyceP]

I just saw that pic of your engine on your restoration thread-your San Jose color looks much lighter than my Dearborn FE. The Bill Hirsch is darker than your engine.

All FE engines were painted at Dearborn Engine Plant. None were ever painted at any assembly plant.

[Bob Gaines]

All FE engines were painted at Dearborn Engine Plant. None were ever painted at any assembly plant.

Good point. Paint shades can very slightly because of different paint batches .

[bullitt68]

All FE engines were painted at Dearborn Engine Plant. None were ever painted at any assembly plant.

Thanks that is what I thought

[J_Speegle]

Jeff posted some photos above that are darker than the paint I used on my motor

Be careful of comparing tints and tones of colors on the computer screen since they will often look different than in person given all the possible camera settings and lighting when the picture was taken digitally and the settings on your monitor. It always appeared to me when I compared that FE blocks, heads and such were slightly darker than Cleveland built and painted engines. But that was just what I've seen or owned

[bullitt68]

Be careful of comparing tints and tones of colors on the computer screen since they will often look different than in person given all the possible camera settings and lighting when the picture was taken digitally and the settings on your monitor. It always appeared to me when I compared that FE blocks, heads and such were slightly darker than Cleveland built and painted engines. But that was just what I've seen or owned

Yes agreed. However I do need a baseline/starting point to arrive at the right color/tone. What do you know about this paint. I was told this is good match. If so will get met painter to mix some up for me. Waiting to find out of I can get some PPG 13358 locally, which should be correct

[bullitt68]

Matching Ford Corporate Blue is kind of like trying to match Guardsman Blue Shelby stripes.... it can vary during production months/years.


I have a low mileage '68 Shelby I'm working on with a lot of original paint on the oil pan.  DAR 13358 painted samples are quite different when put next to it.

I just sprayed some of he PPG and it looks much lighter than I expected. Sure seems difficult to get a sample of what it should look like.

[bullitt68]

Do you have a photo?

Do you have a reference photo?

[bullitt68]

PPG

I just did a PPG spray out and it was not what I expected. Just want to make sure that they mixed it right

[warwick]

Mike,

A little late but attached is a pic of a low mile FE (Dearborn build 5/68).

The intake manifold and everything but water pump and thermostat housing are original paint.  The water pump and thermostat housing was painted in 95 or 96 with Bill Hirsch paint (no primer).

Jeff is right though computer screens are tough to compare paint shades.

[bullitt68]

Mike,

A little late but attached is a pic of a low mile FE (Dearborn build 5/68).

The intake manifold and everything but water pump and thermostat housing are original paint.  The water pump and thermostat housing was painted in 95 or 96 with Bill Hirsch paint (no primer).

Jeff is right though computer screens are tough to compare paint shades.

Thanks for the photo. There is definitely a difference in color and shade. The Bill Hirsch paint looks darker and more opaque, than the original paint. It looks like the PPG 13358 is a light/medium blue and also has a translucent quality to it. When I sprayed it, I found that it does take a lot more paint to cover than I am used to applying, due to the translucent characteristics of the paint. I guess the question is which paint looks more like the paint when it was originally applied at the factory. I realize it is very difficult to judge from a photo, but there really is no other way to compare the various finishes. Unfortunately there are so many different versions off the Ford motor paint out there and I have seen so many different tones and shades of blue that I am not even sure what product to use as I have about 5 different paints that are all different. I hope that the paint shop mixed the PPG correctly, as that is about the only way to know for certain as it is based on the original formula. This is what I used, well the last time that is. PPG paint is on the right

[J_Speegle]

One of the challenges of comparing 50 year old paint that has seen 10,000 or more heat cycles, exposure to all sorts of chemicals, even cold water splashing in some cars on the surface and who know what. 

Comparing to one of the under 100 mile cars with an engine from the same engine plant and year would likely the best you could do, and in person. But that would not be real easy and if you looked at two there would very much be a difference. Let's not even get into all of the blue painted items that were added to the engine after it was painted or installed in the car.

Just have to do your best and get it in the "range" IMHO. We've often described, like in other details that make up our cars, a color or finish that does not catch someones eye as being off or different than the expected. That is what we always shared in judging, owner and restoration seminars and gatherings.

[warwick]

The PPG looks a bit glossy-but you can play with that. I bet if you used a PPG DCC mix it would be a little different with more gloss. One of the reasons I like the Bill Hirsch is it lasts. No burn off issues. I spoke to PPG about what temp paint was good for and as I recall it was in the 270d F range.

Color matching is time consuming and tough.

[Bob Gaines]

The Bill Hirsh paint may be good however it is typically a different darker shade not in the range of the factory paint . It is easy to tell as the wrong shade on the show field.

[bullitt68]

The PPG looks a bit glossy-but you can play with that. I bet if you used a PPG DCC mix it would be a little different with more gloss. One of the reasons I like the Bill Hirsch is it lasts. No burn off issues. I spoke to PPG about what temp paint was good for and as I recall it was in the 270d F range.

Color matching is time consuming and tough.

I am going to mix another batch with some flattening agent and do a test spray as I thought it was too glossy as well. I guess it pretty hit or miss with the flattening agent

[warwick]

The Bill Hirsh paint may be good however it is typically a different darker shade not in the range of the factory paint . It is easy to tell as the wrong shade on the show field.

Bob, in person in may seem a hair bit darker but I think that picture is representative-that is 25+ yr old Bill Hirsch paint and 50+ yr old Ford paint. It is pretty close. I always thought my factory paint batch is a little darker then typical. BTW that manifold is aluminum.