Topic: GT500 A/C Components - Finish Details & Does Someone Rebuild The Idler Pulleys

[8T03S1425]

I found this image while researching what my options were for restoring, rebuilding, or replacing the idler pulleys for my 02/14/1968 build date Shelby GT500. The photo was used by Bob Gaines in his 08/23/2014 1968 Mustang S-Code 390 Fan Belt Routing (Idler Pulley) post. The bracketry and pulleys on my car align with those labeled 68-70.

My questions are:
     1.  Who rebuilds the idler pulleys and are they rebuilt to look like assembly line original parts?

     2.  If the idler pulleys are not rebuildable, what is my next best option for getting them new? I believe mine are the small bearing idlers.

     3.  What are the finishes of the:
          a.  pulleys

          b.  pulley bearing caps

          c.  idler pulley brackets (Those pictured appear to be natural steel.)

          d.  compressor upper bracket

          e.  compressor lower bracket

          f.  compressor (I've seen them painted black and I've seen them natural aluminum or possibly painted silver.)

          g.  compressor clutch and pulley assembly

Please post pictures if they are available.

Steve

[J_Speegle]

Will progress through the list a bit at a time and sure others will help

Looking at new original parts from 68 and 69

First off pulleys are semi-gloss black on the glossier side typically

Brackets that the pulleys attach to are a dark natural finish that can be replicated with P & O that has been worked or gun bluing and oil. Not as dark as the darker retaining bolts

Stamped form steel brackets - semi-gloss black

York AC compressor - typical with natural aluminum finish with clutch in a zinc finish

[70b302cat]

West Coast Classic Cougars has a video on how to replace the bearing, or will rebuild yours.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/14898-Rebuild-Service-A/C-Pulley-Wide-Bearing-Styles-Only-PRE-SEND-CORE-1967-1968-Mercury-Cougar-/-1967-1968-Ford-Mustang.html?sessionthemeid=26

They also sell the bearings separately.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?SearchTerms=idler%20pulley%20bearing&CatID=0

[8T03S1425]

Thank you Jeff. That is helpful.

The bearing in my adjustable idler pulley is probably useable, but it has a little bit of side wobble. The bearing in my fixed idler pulley has no wobble. I'd really like to get the adjustable idler pulley rebuilt, if that's something that can be done. The new ones I've seen on eBay don't look like the originals, and I haven't seen any NOS pulleys available in quite a while.

Steve

[Bob Gaines]

I found this image while researching what my options were for restoring, rebuilding, or replacing the idler pulleys for my 02/14/1968 build date Shelby GT500. The photo was used by Bob Gaines in his 08/23/2014 1968 Mustang S-Code 390 Fan Belt Routing (Idler Pulley) post. The bracketry and pulleys on my car align with those labeled 68-70.

My questions are:
     1.  Who rebuilds the idler pulleys and are they rebuilt to look like assembly line original parts?

     2.  If the idler pulleys are not rebuildable, what is my next best option for getting them new? I believe mine are the small bearing idlers.

     3.  What are the finishes of the:
          a.  pulleys

          b.  pulley bearing caps

          c.  idler pulley brackets (Those pictured appear to be natural steel.)

          d.  compressor upper bracket

          e.  compressor lower bracket

          f.  compressor (I've seen them painted black and I've seen them natural aluminum or possibly painted silver.)

          g.  compressor clutch and pulley assembly

Please post pictures if they are available.

Steve

Your 2/14/68  GT500 would most likely use the 67 early 68 setup like pictured on the left based on factory usage dates in the MPC of being used up until 3/1/68 and considering logistics to the engine plant. The pulleys and brackets in the picture are a good representation of what they would need to look like for concours. The brackets on the 67 early 68 idler pulleys were cast iron so how ever you choose to convey that look . I think I painted the brackets in that picture but prefer the look of lightly zinc phosphate for a fresh cast steel look to painted like in that picture. In your case the bearing caps are zinc plated when new. Pulleys and Compressor upper bracket is on the shiny side of semigloss black , the lower bracket is bare cast iron. I have seen more 68 Shelby compressors painted silver but both painted or bare aluminum were used. Of course they will have a C8ZX id tag on the compressor. The compressor clutch and pulley like in Jeff's picture are typically the magnetic donut type plated zinc silver for 68.     

[Bob Gaines]

I forgot to mention that installing the bearings are not that hard to DIY and the WCC video is extremely helpful in walking you through the procedure. As mentioned WCC will rebuild your core but I don't think they will detail it for show with new plating etc. You might double check. You get the best job if you take it apart to detail it correctly before sending it to them but if you do all that you might as well DIY at that point. 

[krelboyne]

We have come a long way since that bearing pulley video was made.
I am the rebuilder for WCCC. We do not swedge the caps in like is shown in the video. I hand fit the dust caps and use JB weld to keep them together. I think Charles or was it Jim?, that recently sent his original pulley in for rebuild.
I only bead blast the components as needed, no special refinishing.

Bob, I see a mix of stamped steel and cast pulleys on the 1967 style idlers and adjusting pulleys (FE and 289). Not sure what is most common on Mustang and Shelby. I am sure that the majority of my core 390 pulleys, are from various Ford Galaxie and Thunderbirds.

[Bob Gaines]

We have come a long way since that bearing pulley video was made.
I am the rebuilder for WCCC. We do not swedge the caps in like is shown in the video. I hand fit the dust caps and use JB weld to keep them together. I think Charles or was it Jim?, that recently sent his original pulley in for rebuild.
I only bead blast the components as needed, no special refinishing.

Bob, I see a mix of stamped steel and cast pulleys on the 1967 style idlers and adjusting pulleys (FE and 289). Not sure what is most common on Mustang and Shelby. I am sure that the majority of my core 390 pulleys, are from various Ford Galaxie and Thunderbirds.

No criticism from me. I am glad for you doing what you do.  I do hope you still sell the bearings to the DIY people. I have a high confidence level the fixed and adjustable brackets on 67 early 68 style (Fe and 289) that were used on Mustangs were typically cast. I have only ever seen steel pulleys regardless of 67-70. Of course the bearing and covers are different as your video points out. The adjustable idler pulley was commonly replaced because of wear. Service replacements were typically steel brackets which may or may not be a reason for what you are seeing. 67 big car FE adjustable idler brackets do not have the same offset as Mustang/Cougar . They stick out forward more but can be modified so belts will line up properly.

[67350#1242]

I have pressed in new bearings into the earlier style pulleys. Used to be able to get the bearings from Classic Auto Air.  I see WCCC has them now.  As I recall the replacement dust caps have different style marking (1 1/4) but you can save and reuse your original.  Pay attention to depth pressed into bracket so that belt alignment is maintained. 

[Countrysquire]

The WCCC video was certainly helpful to me.

One note to those who come across this thread while searching for ?idler pulley? in hopes of diy rebuilding, on the very early idlers with the cast iron pulley, such as a C3OE in my case, you must remove the dust cap first as there is a circlip on both sides of the bearing. Not sure about the later idlers, but the early ones use the same bearing as the front one on a 1G alternator. 

[Bob Gaines]

The WCCC video was certainly helpful to me.

One note to those who come across this thread while searching for ?idler pulley? in hopes of diy rebuilding, on the very early idlers with the cast iron pulley, such as a C3OE in my case, you must remove the dust cap first as there is a circlip on both sides of the bearing. Not sure about the later idlers, but the early ones use the same bearing as the front one on a 1G alternator.

The later bearing covers are not held in with a clip. They are a tight fit and then metal stacked. They press out when you press the bearing out.  You can re stack them most of time but for extra insurance and less stress us some JB weld on the inside like Scott of WCC says he does.

[8T03S1425]

West Coast Classic Cougars has a video on how to replace the bearing, or will rebuild yours.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/14898-Rebuild-Service-A/C-Pulley-Wide-Bearing-Styles-Only-PRE-SEND-CORE-1967-1968-Mercury-Cougar-/-1967-1968-Ford-Mustang.html?sessionthemeid=26

They also sell the bearings separately.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?SearchTerms=idler%20pulley%20bearing&CatID=0

Thank you for this lead.

Those guys at WCCC provide some unique and valued services. It's great to know that they can rebuild these pulleys.

They also have some interesting videos posted on YouTube.

Steve

[Countrysquire]

The later bearing covers are not held in with a clip. They are a tight fit and then metal stacked. They press out when you press the bearing out.  You can re stack them most of time but for extra insurance and less stress us some JB weld on the inside like Scott of WCC says he does.

The cover is pressed in place on the early ones too, it?s the bearing that is held in place with the clips. I followed Don?s method of using a self tapping screw to remove the cover, giving access to the clip.

[8T03S1425]

Your 2/14/68  GT500 would most likely use the 67 early 68 setup like pictured on the left based on factory usage dates in the MPC of being used up until 3/1/68 and considering logistics to the engine plant. The pulleys and brackets in the picture are a good representation of what they would need to look like for concours. The brackets on the 67 early 68 idler pulleys were cast iron so how ever you choose to convey that look . I think I painted the brackets in that picture but prefer the look of lightly zinc phosphate for a fresh cast steel look to painted like in that picture. In your case the bearing caps are zinc plated when new. Pulleys and Compressor upper bracket is on the shiny side of semigloss black , the lower bracket is bare cast iron. I have seen more 68 Shelby compressors painted silver but both painted or bare aluminum were used. Of course they will have a C8ZX id tag on the compressor. The compressor clutch and pulley like in Jeff's picture are typically the magnetic donut type plated zinc silver for 68.   

Thanks for that info Bob.

I like your use of the expression, "...however you choose to convey that look." My vision of my car has always been to have as nice a car as I can afford to have while being guided with knowledge of period correct details, options, and considerations. To that point, I like that you offered up a paint option for the cast iron brackets.

When I saw your side-by-side comparison photo, I wondered if my car should have the 67-early 68 brackets. The 68-70 brackets were on the car when I bought it in June 1976.

Gone is the C8ZX compressor. It was replaced with a C9AZ-B compressor. How often do you see a C8ZX compressor come up for sale, and for that matter, the 67-early 68 brackets? Is the compressor lower bracket the same for both sets of other brackets? Is the compressor lower bracket painted or left as a natural cast finish?

Steve

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks for that info Bob.

I like your use of the expression, "...however you choose to convey that look." My vision of my car has always been to have as nice a car as I can afford to have while being guided with knowledge of period correct details, options, and considerations. To that point, I like that you offered up a paint option for the cast iron brackets.

When I saw your side-by-side comparison photo, I wondered if my car should have the 67-early 68 brackets. The 68-70 brackets were on the car when I bought it in June 1976.

Gone is the C8ZX compressor. It was replaced with a C9AZ-B compressor. How often do you see a C8ZX compressor come up for sale, and for that matter, the 67-early 68 brackets? Is the compressor lower bracket the same for both sets of other brackets? Is the compressor lower bracket painted or left as a natural cast finish?

Steve

First off it is all doable. There are any number for scenarios to explain your different parts. I can remember when I was 17 foolishly taking off my engine side A/C equipment and hoses on my CJ 69 Mach I in the thought that the weight and power drag of the system took away some of my stop light to stop light acceleration while racing. Like I said foolish. Maybe the later parts were put on when the 69 compressor was put on.  The C8ZX compressors are hens teeth . Other then the tag they are externally identical. I have disassembled several different original C7 and C8ZX compressors and can not find anything different internally compared to a regular Mustang compressor.   I hesitate to say that they are identical on the inside because there should be difference given the different engineering number but I can't find anything.  I have asked others that are vastly more knowledgeable then I on rebuilding A/C compressors thinking I may have overlooked a nuance detail and they too could not find or explain a difference. I would find a good 68 Mustang York compressor to use . They vary on exterior details so one marked with a 68 tag is easy confirmation you have a correct looking one . I am not sure but maybe that C9 one you have now minus the tag may look identical to a 68 case. You will have to confirm that on your own. I would carefully take off the tiny hex bolts holding the C8 ID tag and remove the tag , detail the case with the aluminum paint of your choice(I like Eastwood Alum a blast)  and get a new C8ZX tag. You can PM me for details.  ALL of the brackets are different compared to a 69 and 70 systems. Brackets, pulleys etc. even the lower compressor bracket is different in that the 67/68 one will have a C7 cast into it and the 69 version will have a C9 number. Other then that those pieces look identical . The lower compressor bracket was bare cast steel regardless of 67-70 . The upper and lower adjustable and fixed brackets are different on a big block compared to the small block . They only look similar. One will not work on the other engine. Hopefully this info will give you some insight on how best for your situation to proceed. If after doing some searching you can not find correct parts I have all that is needed for the early and for others reading the later pulleys and brackets on the shelf NOS and used.