Topic: Evaporust is voodoo

[bburns31]

I finally soaked my driveshaft in Evaporust. It was my first time using it and I've been converted. Some interesting marks discovered.
Model Year: 1966
Body Style: 2-Door Hardtop, Standard Bucket Seats
Exterior Paint: Sauterne Gold
Interior Trim: Black Vinyl and Black Rosette Vinyl
Date: 18 May, First Year
DSO: Dallas
Rear Axle: 2.80:1
Transmission: C-4 Automatic
Assembly Plant: Dearborn, MI
Body Serial: 2-Door Hardtop
Engine: 289 2V
Unit #: 354269

[CharlesTurner]

Scheduled build date?  Trans?



Thanks for sharing.

[bburns31]

I updated with info.

[68 GT]

Thanks for sharing! I have never used Evaporust before, but a lot of people do. If you don?t mind me asking, how did you soak the drive shaft, being so long? Did you even soak the part that goes into the transmission? About how much Evaporust did it take to do the drive shaft?

[dkknab]

Use a 4 inch diameter pvc pipe about 5 feet in length with in end capped.  I forget how much evaporust I used but a couple of containers so it.  Check out the results for My 68 Sprint B to see the results.  It is magical stuff.

[68 GT]

Will do, thanks! Do you remove the U joints before soaking? And how about the part that goes into the transmission, do you soak it as well, or just the drive shaft with no U joints?

[bburns31]

I updated with info.

Is there a source for stripe colors for particular builds?

[preaction]

Amazon will deliver a 5gal pail to your door for $75.

[J_Speegle]

bburns31: Thanks for sharing. Marks are pretty typical. The tube numbering is found on every third driveline made (one tube = three drivelines for a single driveline application.

Question - The two dirvelines that you show close up with the tube number on them are from different drivelines correct?   The untouched rusty one does not have anywhere as much yellow paint remaining to result in the "after" picture. Also the one that is clear to read is that from another car? Looks to be a much earlier driveline than one would expect for 6F07C354269

Respectfully - Got to ask

Is there a source for stripe colors for particular builds?

 

Depends on the car and how its equipped.

For some we have documentation (in print), others we have original examples and for others not enough IMHO to make assumptions from. Good thing is that they are easy (in some cases easier) to add later to a car if not certain and you don't want to be responsible for leading others down the wrong path by applying questionable markings


A fair amount of driveline markings are available in other threads

Another 66 C code automatic thread focusing on markings

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=13723.msg85034#msg85034

[Bob Gaines]

I use Rust911 . It is a concentrate that you mix with water. It works like Evaporust but is less money ,works faster and last longer. A gallon jug of concentrate that makes 16 gallons is sold on amazon for 79.95 .

[bburns31]

bburns31: 
Question - The two dirvelines that you show close up with the tube number on them are from different drivelines correct?   The untouched rusty one does not have anywhere as much yellow paint remaining to result in the "after" picture. Also the one that is clear to read is that from another car? Looks to be a much earlier driveline than one would expect for 6F07C354269
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=13723.msg85034#msg85034

The two you are seeing is simply a before and after of the same driveline. I could kind of see the numbers raised through the rust but the second picture is after a good soaking in Evaporust.

[67gtasanjose]

I use Rust911 . It is a concentrate that you mix with water. It works like Evaporust but is less money ,works faster and last longer. A gallon jug of concentrate that makes 16 gallons is sold on amazon for 79.95 .

+1
Using Rust 911, I've even built bathtubs for larger panels (doors, hoods, trunk lid) and have barely needed more than 1-gallon to achieve a full submersion. Flash rust can be a problem so you'll need another product that Rust911 sells (or used to sell anyways) that you spray on immediately after removing from the dip. Obviously surfaces that get painted will need yet another cleaning process but nothing removes ALL the old rust like these products...short of acid dips I suppose.

[HDAshmore]

I use powdered citric acid in water and a plastic trash can.  A fraction of the cost, same results and it's all natural.  Gets rid of rust, grease etc.  Won't eat paint.  No masks, fumes fire hazards etc.  But like others said, have to protect from flash fust after.  10lb bag on Amazon goes along ways compared to the others that cost a lot.  Just my opinion and experience. 

[Scode67FB]

Amazon will deliver a 5gal pail to your door for $75.

That must be an OLD price. I just checked, and it's $130 for the five gal. bucket. I've bought it a couple of times from O'Reilly Auto. They sell it for $95, but when they send out the 20%OFF coupon, it's closer to $75.

[Bob Gaines]

I use powdered citric acid in water and a plastic trash can.  A fraction of the cost, same results and it's all natural.  Gets rid of rust, grease etc.  Won't eat paint.  No masks, fumes fire hazards etc.  But like others said, have to protect from flash fust after.  10lb bag on Amazon goes along ways compared to the others that cost a lot.  Just my opinion and experience.

What proportions of the citric acid in water for rust removal?