Topic: 1966 Convertible Top Motor, Lifts, & Hardware

[Pete Bush]

Thanks, Dave.

Looks like the replacement cylinders look very similar to the originals.

[Pete Bush]

Received a second top motor yesterday (pictures below). Between the two, I can select the best parts to make one good one.

The curious thing is the date code highlighted in the yellow box. Instead of reading 6E like Dave's, it reads E6. The characters are transposed.

It also looks like the remnants of a number stamp on the bottom of the bracket (motor side). It's difficult to tell, but it could be the same as Dave's 16511 stamp.

[Pete Bush]

Looks like my vert is also missing the junction block that attaches to the fender by the starter solenoid. Does anyone have any pictures of the hook-up?

[Twilight65]

Pete,
Here's a picture of mine.  I also rebuilt my block. Have attached that pic also.

Dave

[Pete Bush]

Thanks, Dave.

Is the paper formed the way it was on the original? Looks slightly different than the repos.

Is that black tape at the top of the fusible link? Or a tag of some sort?

[Twilight65]

Pete,
The paper is correct. There was a complete thread(see below)on it when I was trying to restore mine. Pete Morgan had a picture of a NOS one. As to the fusible link, that was remnants of the original wire tag.

Dave



http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=747.msg4101#msg4101

[Pete Bush]

Excellent information there.

That's exactly what my PO did; attached the fusible link directly to the top wire and taped it up. No junction block.

I was thinking about buying the repo junction block and re-forming the paper to conform to your picture, Dave. But when I compare the two side by side, the repo doesn't look long enough to accomplish the necessary bends. If that happens to be the case, is there a source to by a small piece of the appropriate paper?

Pete

[Twilight65]

Pete,
I have paper if you need it and the Dims. to bend it to.
Dave

[bryancobb]

Dave! 
How much would you charge me to supply me a piece big enough to make one?
And the dimension drawing, of course.

BC

[Twilight65]

Bryan, sent you a PM.
Dave

[66RavenGTCoupeAgain]

Hi Guys,
Just a quick slightly off topic question if I may?
Am I able to bench test my motor by just hooking it up to a battery? I understand that the black terminal is negative and the other two yellow and red ones are up and down. When I say "bench" test, Im kind of lying as the motor is in the car but not all of the wiring is done yet so I would like to test and prime it before I go any further.
Would connecting a battery directly to the plug that comes off of the pump do any damage?
Also, if I could ask what fluid is recommended as I have read that some are saying brake fluid and others transmission fluid? (Brand/Type?)
Thanks in advance,
Dan.

[CharlesTurner]

If you just want to tap the wires to the battery to see if anything happens, that's fine.  Don't run the pump for an extended period without fluid.

[jwc66k]

Am I able to bench test my motor by just hooking it up to a battery? I understand that the black terminal is negative and the other two yellow and red ones are up and down.

Yes, yes and yes,

Would connecting a battery directly to the plug that comes off of the pump do any damage?

I make up "jumper" wires, an alligator clip at each end, to do that. As Charles stated, a short connection of 2 or 3 seconds should not cause any problems.

Also, if I could ask what fluid is recommended as I have read that some are saying brake fluid and others transmission fluid? (Brand/Type?)

AT fluid is recommended, type F (for Ford). Almost any major brand is fine.
If you haven't done so yet, get a set of 66 Mustang Assembly Manuals. To "complete" the set, a "64 1/2-65 Chassis Manual" and a "64 1/2-65 Weld and Sealant Manual" should be considered.
Jim

[NEFaurora]

"AT fluid is recommended, type F (for Ford). "

Not any more.  Actually, This has changed a long time ago.  Type "F" is a caustic Fluid and has been found to make rubber seals and especially the plastic hydraulic lines extremely brittle over time and accelerates age and cracking of the pump seals and pump plastic fluid lines.  It was found that the Dexron-Mercon type fluid did not do this, so that is what is recommended not only for today's convertible top pumps, but for old Ford Top pumps and lines as well.  Go with Dexron-Mercon instead, because it's better stuff and it will be much nicer to your pump seals and fluid lines.  If you still want to use "TYPE F" for your Tranny, go ahead...but don't use it for your convertible top pump and lines.

)

Tony K.

[jwc66k]

"AT fluid is recommended, type F (for Ford). "
Type "F" is a caustic Fluid and has been found to make rubber seals and especially the plastic hydraulic lines extremely brittle over time and accelerates age and cracking of the pump seals and pump plastic fluid lines.

I did not know that. My only convertible did not have a power top.
Jim