Topic: remote mirror location

[68 GT]

I have a new, repro, drivers door for our 67 coupe restoration. The car originally came with a drivers side remote mirror. I no longer have the original door. Is there a template that shows the holes locations and sizes for drilling for a remote mirror?

[67gtasanjose]

I have a December 66 door shell I can measure in the morning if nobody has help

[196667Bob]

Attached is a copy of a Template for the companion RH, 1967 Mirror, that I modified and added dimensions to several years ago. Measurements were taken from the original Ford template that came with my NOS C7AZ-17696-C, RH Mirror. The original template is 21-1/2? long, which exceeds the limit of my 11 x 17 Printer/ Scanner, which is why I made measurements and shortened the template.

That all being said, one would think (?) that the template for the RH mirror would have been designed to position it at the same relative place as the Factory LH Remote Mirror. If that is truly the case, then the LH template should just be a mirror image (pun intended). Unfortunately, as my 67 is at our Colorado p[ace, so I cannot confirm this at the moment. I did, however, bring back both my LH Remote and my old RH mirrors to Omaha in order to ?work on them? over the Winter. Interestingly, the RH Mirror came with the identical plastic gasket (with a hole in it for the remote cables), as the LH Mirror. This gives a center to center location of the hole for the cables, but not necessarily its size. The large hole in the gasket is 13/16? ID. I have shown its location on the mirror image that I generated from the RH template.
Hopefully, Richard can verify both the dimensions that I have added, as well as the size of the hole in the door for the cables, on the shell he has.

Once verified, I?ll make a readable mirror image for future use.
Hopefully this will help.

Bob

[68 GT]

Thank you both! That pattern will really help!

[196667Bob]

I also should have noted that the Body Assembly Manual provided no usable information ; unless of course, you have Drawing # 20205 (LOL). I hasve attachedba copy.

Bob

[Bossbill]

Be sure to use a thinsert rivet with a machine thread screw and not a self taping screw.

[67gtasanjose]

Hole for cable looks to be 3/4" and the measurements for the front hole are all identical it seems. My December '66 door measured 11-9/16" and so did my November car. That looks like a close match for your template.

Maybe I need to double check the rear holes location but I got 17-5/16"
Looking at your template, something is not adding up. Do the math.

We need this information exact. We have another thread with the GTA emblem location with essentially 100% incorrect measurements and I don't want to be a part of another such mistake.

Unfortunately,  I had to jump this information in between family outings so it would be at least tomorrow before I can check again.

[Bossbill]

An original door.
In the second pic the ruler is in the trough and the left side IS even with the door edge (camera parallax).

The big hole is punched and not a std drill size at .80.

[196667Bob]

Bill : Good info. Looks like there is about 3/32" difference in the length between screw holes. On the length from the door, I can't tell for sure as it's "apples to oranges". Could you measure along the lower peak, to perpendicular to the front screw hole center. Hopefully, it should be close to the 11-5/32" that I show on the template.

Likewise, I'll try to measure the original template along what appears to be the centerline of the two screw holes, and hopefully, that will be close to the 10-7/8" that your measurement shows.

Thanks,

Bob

[68 GT]

It?s amazing the help one can get from this forum, all you have to do is ask! I do have the thinset rivets  and machine screws to mount the mirror. I purchased a master body kit from AMK and it has 2 rivets and 2 machine screws. I just need to buy the tool to install the thinset rivets. I figure it must be similar to a pop rivet gun.

[67gtasanjose]

It?s amazing the help one can get from this forum, all you have to do is ask! I do have the thinset rivets  and machine screws to mount the mirror. I purchased a master body kit from AMK and it has 2 rivets and 2 machine screws. I just need to buy the tool to install the thinset rivets. I figure it must be similar to a pop rivet gun.

It is good to run a thead tap in those rivets after setting them, just to be sure the threads are nice & clean. Sometimes the quality isn't like it used to be in such items.

[Bossbill]

Bill : Good info. Looks like there is about 3/32" difference in the length between screw holes. On the length from the door, I can't tell for sure as it's "apples to oranges". Could you measure along the lower peak, to perpendicular to the front screw hole center. Hopefully, it should be close to the 11-5/32" that I show on the template.

Likewise, I'll try to measure the original template along what appears to be the centerline of the two screw holes, and hopefully, that will be close to the 10-7/8" that your measurement shows.

Thanks,

Bob

Bob -- OK, I'll do that tomorrow. And the distance between the screw holes.

[196667Bob]

Maybe I need to double check the rear holes location but I got 17-5/16"
Looking at your template, something is not adding up. Do the math.

Richard : I redid the math, and don't see any problems. Remember, I noted that the measurements were taken perpendicular to the lower peak line.

In the attached diagram, A to B = 5-13/16 (5.81250) ; D to E = 11-5/32 (11.15625) ; and C to E = 16-31/32 (16.96875). Thus, 5-26/32 + 11-5/32 = 16-31/32. Seems to check out OK.
Now technically, since the lower peak line is not parallel to the centerline of the two nut-certs, C to D is actually 5.812584, instead of 5.81250. For all practical purposes, however, they are the same.

Is there something I am missing here ??

Bob

[jwc66k]

Here's a link on Amazon to a "tool" to install the "nutserts". I've had a similar tool for decades, using it to install nutserts in various projects.
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W2006-Riveting-Included/dp/B01M08ERVF/ref=sr_1_52?keywords=threaded%2Binsert%2Btool&qid=1670791521&sr=8-52&th=1
I am not recommending this particular tool, just using the line as an example. (I think I may have an air powered version, on a shelf, somewhere.)
Caution:
Measure the outside diameter of the selected "nutsert" BEFORE you drill a hole in your door. (Calipers required.)
Note the finish on the Ford hardware part 379556-S36 - gold zinc. There are kits with gold zinc (called yellow on Amazon) nutserts. You will need to search for them yourself.
Years back, on a 68 Mustang Hardtop, we had to remove everything inside the door to reach up with a pair of vice-grips to hold the nutsert from turning. This was on an assembly line installation where the screw got "stuck", spun the nutsert, making the replacement of the existing mirror "difficult".

It is good to run a thead tap in those rivets after setting them, just to be sure the threads are nice & clean. Sometimes the quality isn't like it used to be in such items.

In other words - whatever nutsert installation tool you use, make sure your nutserts DO NOT SPIN, and the screws fit.
Jim

[Bossbill]

I'm fairly happy with Astro 1442 (astrotools.com). Be very careful on small nutserts since there is a lot of tool leverage and the adapter inside the nutsert can snap if you apply a lot of force. Ask me how I know. But Astro sent another one for free due to my error!

John -- I measured mine on the lower ridge line and I got 11 17/32 to the first nutsert.
My guess is that all of the holes for the mirror and the door handles/locks are punched when the panel is just a flat piece of steel, the panel is bent in a press (variance 1) and then crimped onto the door shell (variance 2).