Topic: Anyone Have Sound Deadener Pix 65 San Jose Mustang?

[GlennG]

I am really happy that I found this website! I have a 65 Mustang that I have totally stripped down to bare metal, and I am doing a ground-up restoration. Can anyone share pictures relating to sound deadener in wheel wells (front and rear)and trunk?  I want to make sure that I am applying it correctly to those areas.  Although I may not be totally concours, I am trying my best to come close.  What factory paint, if any, would be applied over the sound deadener?

Finally, after applying sound deadener, was factory paint applied over the top?  Thank you for all comments/pictures.

P.S. Additional info: I used a brushable seam sealer from Eastwood Co. on cowl and interior.  On other areas that I want a thin "hidden" seal, such as areas of floor that factory never sealed, I used 3M All-around Autobody Sealant # 8500...great stuff because you can clean up with a wet rag.  On cowl and trunk taillight panel support I am trying a 3M product called Fast and Firm #8505 (I want  to get the factory goopy look.) I'll let you know how it all turns out.

[cobrajetchris]

I like using the two part seam sealers that come out of a special gun that 3M sells, as it sets up in minutes and very tough, it can be used over bare metal. I believe the 3m part # is 8310 and it's called bare metal. This stuff cures better in 15 minutes than the single part products do in a year and still remain plyable. I am currently doing a 69 MACH 1 and the inside of the trunk, wheelhouse and parts of the floor had a sprayable seam sealer applied at the factory. I used the 3m sprayable seam sealer on the inside of the trunk and looks pretty close to the original. I have not done my wheelhouses yet and may try another type of sprayable seam sealer on that. I know most use a SCHUTZ type gun to apply undercoating but this product is not near as heavy as the factory deadner. Again this takes another special type of gun to apply the spray seam sealer. Some auto paint stores will rent or let you borrow these guns as they are expensive.

[T Lea]

Hi Glenn and welcome. Lets start with what factory and approximate build date?( or VIN)

[GlennG]

The vin # is 5R07C177968...the door ID is tucked away in my parts boxes, but I am sure that this Mustang is from the San Jose assembly plant.

[J_Speegle]

The vin # is 5R07C177968...the door ID is tucked away in my parts boxes, but I am sure that this Mustang is from the San Jose assembly plant.

OK that gives us a good start. There are many options as to what will work to reproduce these finishes. A good start IMHO for discussion and study would be the "What worked for me..." thread below of the products I use and have been recommending lately


IMHO I would not recommend Firm and Fast in the trunk if for no other reason the color that it comes in.

Finally, after applying sound deadener, was factory paint applied over the top? 

Depends on which sealer and sound deadener.


IN short for a 65 San Jose

Rear wheel wells - before primer and exterior paint

Front wheel wells - Sealer before primer and black (no body color typically in front wheel wells. Sound deadener after the car is completely together (minus wheels and tires is best)

Trunk - Before (sealer and sound deadener) exterior color applied. Sound deadener shot onto panels. Tail light panel and those surfaces were either sprayed, applied out a chaulking gun or a combination of both depending on when the car was build.

I've been away at the Judges meeting will post some pictures of examples from your car's time period later this week if that will help

[GlennG]

Thanks all for replies including Cobrajetchris and Jeff Speegle.  There was a comment against using 3m Fast 'N' Firm 8505 because of color.  Since I will be applying paint over the top e.g. cowl areas, I do not envision color to be an issue.

Jeff, I look forward to seeing trunk and wheel well pictures from that time period

[J_Speegle]

...........Since I will be applying paint over the top e.g. cowl areas, I do not envision color to be an issue.

Just be aware that on original cars the color over these areas was often altered by the color of the sealer below. In addition any chips and cracks (sometimes found on original cars) will show that you used a different color.

Your choice

BTW used firm and fast on the current project - a little over a year ago. Will be redoing it since its already cracked and lifted

[GlennG]

Jeff, what was the original color of the sealer around the cowl, etc.as compared to Fast and Firm?  I have not opened the cartridge yet, so I could always look at a return.  javascript:void(0); I assume that original goopy cowl sealer was black?

[CharlesTurner]

Jeff, what was the original color of the sealer around the cowl, etc.as compared to Fast and Firm?  I have not opened the cartridge yet, so I could always look at a return.  javascript:void(0); I assume that original goopy cowl sealer was black?

The original seam sealer on the cowl was a light color, like a light tan.

The K convertible I'm restoring is pretty close in production to your car.  Would be interested in seeing any "before" pictures you might have.

[GlennG]

Hi Charles,

My before pictures were taken with a non-digital camera, so as soon as I can scan them...hopefully by this weekend.  I also have some pictures of grease markings that might be interesting as well.

If the cowl sealer was light tan, now I have to find out the color of 3M fast and firm...I would prefer not to open it as then I can at least return it.  Jeff, anyone, do you know the color of the 8505 3M Fast and Firm???

[J_Speegle]

Hi Charles,

......................Jeff, anyone, do you know the color of the 8505 3M Fast and Firm???

Unless there are a number of different colors the stuff I've seen and used was a light beige

[T Lea]

The 3M stuff is light beige

[GlennG]

Since the 3M 8505 Fast and Firm is light beige, how much does this color really differ from the original cowl sealer (light tan)?  I am painting my car its original color, Wimbleton White.  If I use Fast and Firm and it cracks, how will the sealer show against the Wimbleton White?

[GlennG]

Since I am on the subject of sound deadener, I will add that in the engine bay, I will be sealing all sealer with PPG  DP74 Red Oxide Primer.  Any areas that have the Eastwood brushable seam sealer will be scuffed with Scotch Brite Gray to insure that the primer will stick.

A friend of mine that restores muscle cars suggested using Kirker Hot Rod black ...here is a link:  (http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/kirker-acrylic-urethane-hot-rod-black-satin-finish-ua70388-p-13771.aspx), which is a two part paint (paint and catalyst) that will be used to paint the engine compartment semi-gloss black.  The factory says "Apply additional coats, or apply in heavier coats.  Doing so can increase the finish to a semi-gloss appearance."  It appears that  you can adjust this paint to get the proper amount of sheen that will reproduce the original engine bay semi-gloss black. I will also include  this link for Kirker's technical data "P" sheet: http://www.kirkerautomotive.com/html/flat_black_paints.html

Has anyone tried Eastwood's ceramic semi-gloss Underhood black for their engine compartment? I was considering using it.  Here is the link:
http://www.eastwood.com/2k-ceramic-underhood-black-quart-kit.html?SRCCODE=1EMA09B&utm_content=New+-+2K+Ceramic+Underhood+Black!&utm_campaign=10-02-09+New+-+2K+Ceramic+Underhood+Black!&utm_source=iPost&utm_medium=email

[J_Speegle]

Your your car's period and plant

Trunk sealant was applied with something like a chalking gun. Around the bumper supports is was applied and allowed to settle. This application made the finished product stand up in a pile of sealant for lack of a better description

In other applications is as smoothed with a brush or a rag sipped in a solvent making this application fat and wider. (examples tallight panel to floor, taillight panel to end caps, trunk floor to trunk sides)


Some examples