Topic: Rebuild Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ball Joints

[dkknab]

Both my inner and outer tie rod boots on my car on both sides are cracked.  I see you can buy a concours correct boot from NPD for about $22 each which is much cheaper than getting oem or nos tie rods. The question is how do you get the boot and retaining ring off without destroying the tie rod ends and then pressing the new boot and ring back on after packing the ball joint?

Is there anyone who can restore these off I send them to them?

[RoyceP]

I bead blast them first. The boot and retainer can be removed easily, I use a small hammer and a brass drift.


Chockostang will restore them for you. He even has NOS boots.

[CharlesTurner]

I'm not aware of a way to disassemble these without destroying them.  Normally, for concours use, good condition original tie rods, that are not rusted out or extremely worn are best to use.  The original-style metal ringed boots can be used to freshen them up with a good packing of grease.

[dkknab]

Got both the boots off easily as RoyceP mentioned. Here is a picture of the two of them. Looks like the ring is a integral part of the boot and not separate as I seem to recall seeing on the NPD site.

PS I was wrong. The $20 ones look like the ring is already pressed onto the boot.

[jwc66k]

Here's my attempts:

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=21922.msg137286#msg137286

Jim

[RoyceP]

I like the idea of using silicone sealant. I would probably use a cheaper basin tub and tile silicone. The Permatex Blue is pretty pricey!


BTW I just realized that Chockostang actually has good original boots, not NOS ones, that he uses to restore these. I bought the ones in my picture from Dead Nuts On https://www.deadnutson.com/tie-rod-end-grease-dust-boot-small-suspension/, they are the "small suspension" type used in 1968 - early 1969 except Boss and Eliminators.

Here's my attempts:

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=21922.msg137286#msg137286

Jim

[dkknab]

I just happened to notice my boots that I installed are starting to show some surface cracks possibly evidence of them drying.  What can I do to stem the dying and renew the rubber? Is silicone or some other rubber treatment a solution?

[Bob Gaines]

I just happened to notice my boots that I installed are starting to show some surface cracks possibly evidence of them drying.  What can I do to stem the dying and renew the rubber? Is silicone or some other rubber treatment a solution?

I think you have unrealistic expectations if you think that there is a product that renews the rubber. Once the rubber has surface cracks you will need to replace the boots for them to look like new again. The ones sold by Dead nuts on or NPD sell will be fine in the concours driven class you plan on participating in. There are various products silicone and otherwise that you can use to help slow original non cracked rubber parts from getting worse. If you have to replace one or more tie rod boots I would suggest replacing them all so that they match. Non match patina can be a source of concours deductions.

[J_Speegle]

Would not use any silicon based treatment to put off or try and increase the longevity of rubber. Many manufactures list in their documents that doing such Will void warranties and warn against it use. Agree there is nothing that will reverse aging or damage but there are a number of products that advertise that the will soften and "renew" (their words) rubber products. I've tried a number of them and they will make rubber more flexible but the affect does not last long. Been using them on original fan belts, seals, and hoses.

Tie rods are pretty easy to restore -- not much to them but you have to get the details correct to make it IMHO worth the effort. Nothing you can do if they are too worn and the cups are damaged or well worn that I know of. There are a number of threads and articles that will show the results of later (including 68 style) tie rods.

[CharlesTurner]

Might try treating with some ATF if it's just minor cracking.  Otherwise, probably best to replace them.

[67350#1242]

Don't waste your time and money on the cheaper ($5 range) boots.  Had a set on for 6 months in garage and they split. Absolute garbage.

[dkknab]

The ones I got were $20 each from NPD. I'm going to call them Monday because after one year of predominately being in a garage they shouldn't be cracking.  I may get 4 Deadnutson.com ones .

[dkknab]

Here are pictures of the 4 boots showing some surface cracks. I am wondering if I installed these correctly as they seem to be compressed quite a bit. It's at the fold where the surface cracks are most evident. Any thoughts?

[Bob Gaines]

Here are pictures of the 4 boots showing some surface cracks. I am wondering if I installed these correctly as they seem to be compressed quite a bit. It's at the fold where the surface cracks are most evident. Any thoughts?

The boots don't look out of the ordinary in the way they are compressed. If the rubber is cracking after a short period of time then inferior rubber was used in MFG.

[J_Speegle]

The boots don't look out of the ordinary in the way they are compressed. If the rubber is cracking after a short period of time then inferior rubber was used in MFG.

+1  In addition have found that some rust inhibitors/preventives or cleaning products can have a negative results when exposed to the rubber boots.