Topic: Correct Sway bar size for 6 Cylinder

[Colorado56]

What is the correct front sway bar size on a 1966 6 cylinder convertible built January 1966.  Looks like the same bar was used for all non GT or competition suspension.  5/8 or 11/16?  Looks like my original measures 11/16. 

[jwc66k]

It should be 5/8 inch. Don't rely on a single location on the bar to determine its diameter. Measure the diameter in three or more sections. The bar "deforms" in its bending process.
JIm

[Colorado56]

Thanks, I will check a couple of places for size.

Would the factory finish be painted black or the dark heat treated?  Going to soak it in evaporust to see how it looks. Just waiting on my order for the evaporust. 

[J_Speegle]

Thanks, I will check a couple of places for size.

Would the factory finish be painted black or the dark heat treated?  Going to soak it in evaporust to see how it looks. Just waiting on my order for the evaporust.

Heat treated creating a dark finish. Have not seen painted on this style and size

[Maksim27]

Which one is better to use on the Sway-Bar...Perma-Blue or Super-Blue.  Should 000 wool need to be applied or does the sway-bar needs to be super dark.

[J_Speegle]

Which one is better to use on the Sway-Bar...Perma-Blue or Super-Blue.  Should 000 wool need to be applied or does the sway-bar needs to be super dark.

Perma-Blue will work just fine to make it dark like heat treated. Don't apply with steel wool because of this use a rag or sponge. Going to be a bit of a challenge since it is so long to get a consistent tone but you can recolor areas that are not as dark. And you can even it out a little if need be with steel wool after but don't over work it.

[Bossbill]

I use the the gel version of the blueing since it doesn't run and stays in the confines of the steel wool. I use medium steel wool since the openings in the wool hold the gel in suspension real well and allow a little blueing to go a really long way. I'm not using the wool to burnish the metal -- only as a carrier.

Perhaps Jeff could expand on why not to use steel wool since I've had great success with it.

[J_Speegle]

I've always used the liquid and not the gel. It may act differently and of course we all have different experiences when we color these parts and our situations (prep, climate and so on...) can differ.

For me I've always found that by applying with steel wool the toning is lighter though with multiple applications it can get darker as if the coloring starts reacting with the steel in the steel wool before the part I'm trying to color. Instead I've just found that using a sponge or rag colors quicker for me.   Of course small parts, bolts and nuts I simply slosh around in a small cup if I'm going for P&O  or for fresh steel its back to the steel wool and burnishing the bends if its sheet metal or stamped steel

[Maksim27]

Where can I get the correct isolators for the 11/16 sway-bar.   Mine originally had the flat isolators and the Scott Drake I seen have edge shoulder isolators.   I seen deadnutson sell correct style isolaters but they are for a bigger sway-bar like 15/16 and theirs also has the correct rubber stripes in the rubber.

I do have another sway bar that is also 11/16 with great looking original isolators, its just that bar looks pitted and I'm afraid if I remove the isolators that they can split going out those round ends.  That's how one of my cracked insolators split ones I took them off.  All the new insolators and NOS come with a split so it's easy to mount them in place.

[Maksim27]

I was just wondering does this look dark enough or should it be darker on the sway-bar.  I used perma-blue but was wondering if I should have tried Super-blue for a darker tone.  If it's too light I might do another round of perma-blue.

66 San Jose 11/16 bar

Here is the before and after bluing

[J_Speegle]

Difficult to tell from a picture - lightly, reflections and all of those things. If under the car in the shade without direct light on it it might be just fine. Would not have any shine or reflective quality's in general so no need to work the finish with steel wool or burnish with a cloth after "plating". Sorry can be more confident that that given the situation

[jwc66k]

Being that the sway bar was hot forged, it should not be shinny but a dull, almost flat black, with some "scale".
Jim

[Maksim27]

Can I use super blue over perma blue for a darker tone.  Or should I sand off the perma blue and apply super blue.  Originally the finish was almost charcoal from the Factory as I saw when I removed the isolators. 

[jwc66k]

They should look like these center links. One went on 6S1902.
Jim

[J_Speegle]

Can I use super blue over perma blue for a darker tone.  Or should I sand off the perma blue and apply super blue.  Originally the finish was almost charcoal from the Factory as I saw when I removed the isolators.

You can try one over the other. would not sand since that will remove and reduce the texture and that is not something you want to do!!!! ust make sure its clean and no oil of any kind (even from your hands) before you recoat it by dipping or the use of a soaked rag or paint brush