Topic: Defroster duct/hose cleaning and repair?

[TonyFio]

Does anyone have experience cleaning and repairing the defroster duct hose? I don't know if this material is limited to 65/66, but I don't see any reproduction square hose.

My thought is to use some vinyl repair, something like Permatex #81786 with some fiberglass cloth for the tears. I think the resulting stiffness should be ok because that's where the hose attaches to the duct part at the top.

As to cleaning, I can brush it, but am hoping someone has experience with some chemical solution? I want to get back to the original color, but don't want to introduce any stain that may come from a cleaning agent.

[CharlesTurner]

I've had good luck soaking that style in evaporust.

[TonyFio]

I've had good luck soaking that style in evaporust.

I thought that stuff was for use on metal parts. I?ll give it a try. Thanks for the feedback.

[Bob Gaines]

Does anyone have experience cleaning and repairing the defroster duct hose? I don't know if this material is limited to 65/66, but I don't see any reproduction square hose.

My thought is to use some vinyl repair, something like Permatex #81786 with some fiberglass cloth for the tears. I think the resulting stiffness should be ok because that's where the hose attaches to the duct part at the top.

As to cleaning, I can brush it, but am hoping someone has experience with some chemical solution? I want to get back to the original color, but don't want to introduce any stain that may come from a cleaning agent.

No one yet repros a square hose unfortunately. Successfully repairing will depend on your expectations. I am sure it can be done but I am skeptical that it can be done to a acceptable level where you couldn't tell a repair has been done.  At least I have not heard of anyone being successful at repairing tears like you show to a high level good enough for show. Most do not bother and seek another alternative rather then have a inferior looking repaired hose. The good news is that square hose defroster ducts are still out there in the wild. Hard to find yes but still out there. I pick them up every chance I get.

[CharlesTurner]

I thought that stuff was for use on metal parts. I?ll give it a try. Thanks for the feedback.

It is, but it won't hurt the ducts.  Rinse, blow them dry and apply a protective coating so the metal areas won't flash rust.

[TonyFio]

No one yet repros a square hose unfortunately. Successfully repairing will depend on your expectations. I am sure it can be done but I am skeptical that it can be done to a acceptable level where you couldn't tell a repair has been done.  At least I have not heard of anyone being successful at repairing tears like you show to a high level good enough for show. Most do not bother and seek another alternative rather then have a inferior looking repaired hose. The good news is that square hose defroster ducts are still out there in the wild. Hard to find yes but still out there. I pick them up every chance I get.

It's been so long since I've seen these in the car, I can't relate. Where these attach to the upper duct piece (not sure what it's called) is visible without taking the radio and such out?

[TonyFio]

It is, but it won't hurt the ducts.  Rinse, blow them dry and apply a protective coating so the metal areas won't flash rust.

Good to know!

[jwc66k]

It's been so long since I've seen these in the car, I can't relate. Where these attach to the upper duct piece (not sure what it's called) is visible without taking the radio and such out?

The upper pieces (Ford calls them "Nozzles") were attached via staples to the square/round tubes. Remove the radio grill and they are exposed. Removal of them can be "challenging". The nozzles are retained by two "V" shaped clips with "ears" going outward at the top. The actual retaining part are two small tabs, one on each side of the "V" going slightly outward. You need to squeeze the top of the "V" with needle nose pliers and rock to pliers back and fourth GENTLY to free them up. I don't think the clips are reproduced. The nozzle and tube should then pull out, the base slides over the the ducts fittings at the plenum. If you reuse the nozzles, spray them with "Scotch Guard". Spray the plenum as well. The Scotch Guard will absorb into the paper material and not be visible. It seals moisture out very well. Use regular staples from a desk stapler to reattach the tubes to the nozzles.
Jim

[TonyFio]

The upper pieces (Ford calls them "Nozzles") were attached via staples to the square/round tubes. Remove the radio grill and they are exposed. Removal of them can be "challenging". The nozzles are retained by two "V" shaped clips with "ears" going outward at the top. The actual retaining part are two small tabs, one on each side of the "V" going slightly outward. You need to squeeze the top of the "V" with needle nose pliers and rock to pliers back and fourth GENTLY to free them up. I don't think the clips are reproduced. The nozzle and tube should then pull out, the base slides over the the ducts fittings at the plenum. If you reuse the nozzles, spray them with "Scotch Guard". Spray the plenum as well. The Scotch Guard will absorb into the paper material and not be visible. It seals moisture out very well. Use regular staples from a desk stapler to reattach the tubes to the nozzles.
Jim

So, where the hose attaches to the nozzle, is that visible when everything is assembled? My only tear is at one of the nozzles and I'm hoping it isn't visible.

[jwc66k]

So, where the hose attaches to the nozzle, is that visible when everything is assembled?

No.

My only tear is at one of the nozzles -

Get a reproduction set. I found that you really can't repair a tear very well.
The clip is Ford p/n 372850-S32. It can be seen in "Ford Standard and Utility Parts Catalog" 1965 (pg 34), 66 (pg 34) and 69 (pg 42) versions. An internet search shows several sources.
Jim

[TonyFio]

No.Get a reproduction set. I found that you really can't repair a tear very well.
The clip is Ford p/n 372850-S32. It can be seen in "Ford Standard and Utility Parts Catalog" 1965 (pg 34), 66 (pg 34) and 69 (pg 42) versions. An internet search shows several sources.
Jim

Thanks Jim. I'll try my hand at repairing and post if I have any luck. Otherwise, I'll continue to watch for an original on eBay. Unfortunately, there aren't any square reproductions.

[TonyFio]

While looking for info on heat treated steel finish (of all things), I found this thread:

https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=20231.0

It covers this subject pretty well.

[RocketScientist]

It will be hard to repair a tear and keep it structurally strong but what about using an internal collar or tube to add strength and then glue the torn ends together to the collar. The repair and gluing will all be internal and not visible and if its at one end, then this can be hidden at the duct end.
Brad

[TonyFio]

Here is the result of the repair I did. It took awhile, doing a small section at a time. It worked because the tear was at the end where it connected to the nozzle. I don't think this method could repair tears in the middle of the hose.

I included a resized photo of the original tear to show the difference.