Topic: front fender sound deadner

[aaatp]

Hey guys: I'm getting ready to spray sound deadner on the inside of my front fenders and the outside of the front fender aprons. It's been along time since I removed all of it (stupid me didn't take any pictures) and can't remember
what the coverage area should be. I've checked all my assembly manuals and can't seem to find anything diffinitive.
Were both the front and rear splash shields in place when this was done? I have a 1966 Dearborn convertible with a proposed build date of Feb. 18th 1966.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks: John

[J_Speegle]

Hey guys: I'm getting ready to spray sound deadener on the inside of my front fenders and the outside of the front fender aprons. It's been along time since I removed all of it (stupid me didn't take any pictures) and can't remember
what the coverage area should be. I've checked all my assembly manuals and can't seem to find anything definitive.

The assembly manuals can be pretty vague in these details often showing nice, neat, straight edges and the like. 

Were both the front and rear splash shields in place when this was done? I have a 1966 Dearborn convertible with a proposed build date of Feb. 18th 1966.

Yes the splash shields were in place as was just about everything else (fender, suspension, front spring cover...) when the sound deadener was applied


Patterns can vary depending on who applied the stuff and where they were standing at the moment. But i does appear that Dearborn was more consistent in their patterns than San Jose (for example)


Picture of the forward edge of the opening - splash shields and bottom side of fender shown also




Mid way back - showing the amount of texture and areas covered




Two examples (one each high lighted where the sound deadener was applied to show the pattern) It appears that in one case the worker stood to the front of the opening and one time from the rear (notice the pattern and shadow of spray on the spring cover)

Hope this helps (as always - everyone else please notice that your car may differ if assembled at a different plant or different time period

[aaatp]

Jeff: Thank you for the pictures and the explanation, I get it now. It appears then that the sound deadner was
applied last in this area, is that correct?

Thanks: John

[J_Speegle]

Jeff: Thank you for the pictures and the explanation, I get it now. It appears then that the sound deadner was
applied last in this area, is that correct?

We understand that the car was pretty much finished but lacking front wheels and tires but everything else was in place. So if the pattern passes over bolt heads, mounting nuts, fuel lines, rubber grommets ...... we would expect to see sound deadener applied over them - though overtime it does not stick well to rubber items

[66RavenGTCoupeAgain]

Perfect Jeff,
Just what I was after. Would the application pattern be much different for a 10/20/64 SJ car?
Just a side question: Did convertibles have the sound deadener on the inner rear side panels in the trunk? My unrestored coupe has it applied but our somewhat unrestored convertible did not. Would it have made much of a difference given that the soft top did not offer much in the way of acoustic resistance so maybe they didn't bother? Also, was the deadener in the area where the rear quarter windows wind down into done at the same time as the rear wheel arches?

Thanks,
Daniel.

[J_Speegle]

Just what I was after. Would the application pattern be much different for a 10/20/64 SJ car?

From the example I posted - Yes If the worker choose the bottom of the fender might have had no sound deadener and each inner panel could have received only a single pass of the wand maybe 10" side and a foot long

Just a side question: Did convertibles have the sound deadener on the inner rear side panels in the trunk?

Yes all body styles were suppose to received a section of the inner quarter panel with the sound deadner. Often 3-4 passes with the wand

Also, was the deadener in the area where the rear quarter windows wind down into done at the same time as the rear wheel arches?

If it got missed it should have been picked up by the multiple inspectors. Thats not what was common nor playyed

Not over the wheel arches - rearward of the arches in the trunk area, Often but not always was the surface behind the rear quarter windows would get a short single pass commonly

[brennancarey]

i am just wondering what product and application is everyone using on the front fender sound deadner ?

 I know on the rear wheel house success has been obtained with  Spectrum Sludge, but thats a manual approach with a brush. So on the front fender with everything installed what is the product and procedures that are been used as you cant apply in these areas with a brush surely ?

thks!

[CharlesTurner]

I've been using Lord Fusor sprayable seam sealer, 805HD.  Requires a special gun to spray, I borrow my body guy's Wurth one.

[brennancarey]

I've been using Lord Fusor sprayable seam sealer, 805HD.  Requires a special gun to spray, I borrow my body guy's Wurth one.

Ok great, does anyone know if Wurth have a similar product to the Lord Fusor as I can get Wurth products but not Lord Fusor in "my neck of the woods" ?

[67gta289]

This is what I use

[brennancarey]

Great, what Gun does the Wurth sealer req?

[J_Speegle]

The tube products will work. Just cost allot (in comparison) and require special tools to apply.

[hughnews2018]

i brush bed liner on my 66 fenders ... 

[J_Speegle]

i brush bed liner on my 66 fenders ...

Guess your referring to the inner fenders/fender panels but maybe also the top (under) surface of the fenders done on some of the cars

Got a picture? 

Interested in how did you get the spray look so it would look factory?

Especially around the edges and away from the main body of the application and/or the sagging (curtains) if since you were likely trying for the heavier application.

For others IMHO DON"T follow the assembly manuals exactly if you want them to look like what was done at the plants. We see this every so often and its obvious where the builder got their information from. The manual shows/suggests that the application was neat and out to the edge of every panel. It would be very hard to show what was done in a 2D picture - I've tried 

[Bossbill]

Autobodytools.com sells the Italian Fusor-style gun. I believe the Italian version is the original gun and either relabeled or repoped by various vendors.

I borrowed my body man's personal gun -- which is why I STILL haven't done the various seams and sound deadening on my car. He lost the black cap and I tried to buy just that piece. However, these are difficult to find and usually only available with a full gun rebuild kit. Turns out the rebuild kit is almost as much as the gun.

So then he offered up his bodyshop's gun. This version has leaks and was hamfistedly repaired a few times. So I opted out of even trying it. Plus, I want the seam tip (like a caulking gun application) and neither gun I borrowed had any other tips.

Tiring of all this BS I finally purchased the Autobodytools Italian version through Amazon -- Amazon is a reseller of Autobodytools -- for almost $60 cheaper than if I had gone direct. For about $165 you get a new gun that really appears to be able to replicate the various finishes applied by Ford.
It takes practice, I assume, and you get to buy each tube of sealer for various insane prices. It should be here in the next few days.

But after seeing, this appears to be the ticket.  If you have an O'Reiley's nearby or one of the other auto parts store under their corporate umbrella you can buy Transtar brand sealer. [Note: Transtar also offers a gun for almost double the cost of Autobodytools.]
Since the product comes from an O'Reiley warehouse it gets sent to the store for free. Cost here is about $15/tube.