Topic: Headliner installation

[roddster]

  First off, I searched back 8 pages, nothing in particular in "installation of"  So, here are my question(s)
     I'm using the TMI brand, this is in a 67 coupe restomod if it matters. I have laid the top out so the folds will flatten out (a little)  and have marked out where the two springs will go through the end support bar  and have slid the 4 supports through the looped material.
  Just so you know, the original Ford supports are: plain, red, white, blue, front to back.  (this is also in the assembly manual)
   Seems to me that the looped and sewn material needs to be cut so the ends are free to go into the punched roof supposrt holes.  The looped material is definately longer, and sewn that way.
  1) how far should I cut the looped material?
      A) right where the bar bends to go into the hole?
      B) 1" above the bar bend that goes into the hole?
      C) further?
  Comment: funny in that you get instructions with a vinyl top, in-the-box.  But not with a headliner.

[ruppstang]

I start stretching it in and only cut enough so it is evenly stretched at the edges. Hint I cut a little and try it then cut a little more as needed.

It helps to lay it out in the sun for a while before you install it. A carefully used hair dryer can be helpful in getting all of the wrinkles out. The sail panel on a coupe will test your patience. Take your time.

[RocketScientist]

I have read lots of articles and they all say to cut the loops but they never say by how much and I suspect that's because the width of the headliner can be variable.  I did a sportsroof and I started at where the bar bends to go into the hole. That allowed me to secure the sides of the headliner to the pinchweld using spare windlace and from then I could see the profile of the headliner.  After that I cut the loops a little more until the sides smoothed out and I got the look that I wanted, so its just a case of cut, test and adjust.
Brad

[J_Speegle]

Would expect there is no guide as to how far to trim the channels since there are many makers of reproduction headliners and possibly the strips are not a uniform length. I too have just cut a little bit until I get the pucker out and the headliner looks right once some tension is applied to the edge

[roddster]

August 24th 2021
  The finish.  I've got mine in and just posting some tips for the rest of us.
The colors above for the bows are for coupes, fastback bows go: gray/purple, gray/green, gray/pink.  This might be for all years but I took this information out of the 67 Interior assembly manual.
Steps: ('cause somebody will want to know)
  1) unbox it, lay it out for a few days to let the folds and wrinkles lessen.  I would not try to install the material if the temperature is below 50.  The warmer out the better as the material is stretchy (well, kind of)
 2) install: the roof insulation, dome light or map light wiring, roof console brackets (1 on a coupe, 2 on a fastback)
 3) slide the supports (or bows) into the cloth tube and spend time centering them.  I cut a hole in the cloth tube about 1 1/2" above where the bow ends.  The work the material to get the end of each bow exposed.
 4) if the car has the tension springs (coupes for sure) slice the cloth tube so you can attach the locator springs the rear-most bow.  Attach the tension springs (small loop goes to the car body, large to the bow)
 5) Lay the headliner in, rear to front.  What holes in the roof rail?  The ones where to bows are not jammed up into the roof insulation.
 6) Put glue along the roof rail, and on the back side of the headliner material in a best guess "where you think the material will fold over the roof rail". (sharpies help here) Pull the material forward, snug, and fold it over the roof area.  Yes, this is why you have to remove the front and rear glass to install or replace a headliner.
 7) Glue along either side (your choice) both the rail and the headliner between the front (where the roof curve down) t0 the rear (where the side glass rail curves down). Snug one side, then the other.  You might have to go back and forth to pull out the wrinkles.
  Just like in the front, glue the rear window rail, and the material roughly 32" to 36".  The lightly pull the material and fold it over the roof rail.  Pay attention to see if there are any wrinkles.
9) Working one corner at a time, do the front headliner corners.  Install those short trim pieces.
10) Same as above for the rear corners.  Take your time and cut  very little at a time.  Better to cut 1/2" at a time than too much.
11) Install the windlass on each side.
   Tips: Have acetone and a rag around to get the glue off your fingers.
           I used short sections of windlass to hold the material where you want it.
           I did NOT use spray glue.
 Note to TMI: move the tag 3" inboard or go to the edge.  The tag wants to sit right on the roof rail.
   Please work slow, and careful