Topic: 1967 seat track finishes- nj dec '66

[wils1514]

Looking for the correct finishes for the seat tracks and components such as the springs. I've read that phosphate and oil is correct for metuchen. How about the springs?

[jwc66k]

Springs, in general, are heat treated which makes them look dark. You can do that several ways: use a metal blackening solution (Eastwood, they may still sell it) prior to phosphating; "cook" the springs longer in the phosphoric bath; use a stronger phosphoric mix in the cooking bath. Remember this if you do your own phosphating, the bath temperature must be over 190F, or you're going to wipe off the phosphate.
(Note the use of - you, your, you're, in the same sentence.)
Jim

[CharlesTurner]

Most of the big seat springs I've seen are black.  The small ones on the tracks either black or natural.


Always best to clean the original parts and observe original finishes if possible.

[Bossbill]

On my 67 the large spring was painted black and had drip marks on it from being dipped.
I just now flipped over my yet un-restored tracks and none of the rivets or other parts next to the small spring are painted over, so it looks unmolested.
When I scrapped the small spring paint came off and the spring was quite shiny underneath.

Nothing on the underside of my original seat suggests it being painted in situ or being taken apart to paint.

Also note the center, square adjuster bracket was phosphate and the rods were natural. Not a great pic of the rod's natural finish -- just showing the parts in question.

[jwc66k]

From what seat tracks I've got laying around, all the parts that got paint were painted separately, then assembled. The internal rollers were certainly not painted, and they were also greased (I prefer Lithium grease, but Ford used a petroleum based lubricant). There are a couple of rivets staked on the lower track used as retainers for the rollers which were installed after assembly. Springs may have been painted after forming, I'll still bead blast and phosphate mine to clean them up, and the adjuster threaded rods were definitely bare (and rusty).
Jim

[wils1514]

Most of the big seat springs I've seen are black.  The small ones on the tracks either black or natural.


Always best to clean the original parts and observe original finishes if possible.

Thank you for the info.
When you say black, do you mean painted?

I agree that one should always note the original finishes when restoring. Some dumb dumb when they were 15 years old (me) didn't know any better when they first "restored" their mustang. 20 years later I've gained a little more knowledge!

[wils1514]

On my 67 the large spring was painted black and had drip marks on it from being dipped.
I just now flipped over my yet un-restored tracks and none of the rivets or other parts next to the small spring are painted over, so it looks unmolested.
When I scrapped the small spring paint came off and the spring was quite shiny underneath.

Nothing on the underside of my original seat suggests it being painted in situ or being taken apart to paint.

Also note the center, square adjuster bracket was phosphate and the rods were natural. Not a great pic of the rod's natural finish -- just showing the parts in question.

So the tracks and the arms for the roller track that lock the sliders in place (one has the handle attached) were phosphated first then assembled? Not sure if i'll disassemble it that far. I guess I havent really looked at the rivets to see how I would put it back together.

[wils1514]

From what seat tracks I've got laying around, all the parts that got paint were painted separately, then assembled. The internal rollers were certainly not painted, and they were also greased (I prefer Lithium grease, but Ford used a petroleum based lubricant). There are a couple of rivets staked on the lower track used as retainers for the rollers which were installed after assembly. Springs may have been painted after forming, I'll still bead blast and phosphate mine to clean them up, and the adjuster threaded rods were definitely bare (and rusty).
Jim

How far are you going to take yours apart? Are you going to leaving the rivets in place?

[jwc66k]

How far are you going to take yours apart? Are you going to leaving the rivets in place?

I disassembled everything by carefully bending the 3/16 X 3/16 inch tabs at the end of the top section which lets the rollers fall out when you "slide" the "slide", the same for the plastic side guides. The rivets remained installed for the simple reason that I have not found a replacement. I bead blasted the separate pieces, phosphated what needed to be phosphated, masked what needed to be masked, painted what heeded to be painted, greased and reassembled. I've been doing it that way for over 25 years for many Mustang seats and a couple of other seats from 60's era Fords.
Jim

[wils1514]

I disassembled everything by carefully bending the 3/16 X 3/16 inch tabs at the end of the top section which lets the rollers fall out when you "slide" the "slide", the same for the plastic side guides. The rivets remained installed for the simple reason that I have not found a replacement. I bead blasted the separate pieces, phosphated what needed to be phosphated, masked what needed to be masked, painted what heeded to be painted, greased and reassembled. I've been doing it that way for over 25 years for many Mustang seats and a couple of other seats from 60's era Fords.
Jim

Sounds like the approach I am going to take. Thank you!

[CharlesTurner]

Keep in mind that San Jose seat tracks were usually black, while Dearborn/Metuchen were normally phosphate/natural.

[Bossbill]

I should have mentioned in my post that my 67 car is a SJ car. Not everyone knows 65-67 Shelbys are SJ cars.
I didn't know the eastern cars were phosphate/natural. Good to know, Charles!