Topic: K Code numbers

[ACMkIV]

Hello everyone, I am new to the forum and have been a Ford fan for years. I plan to look at a 1965 K code this week. Please provide me with the locations of the numbers (date codes) located on the engine, transmission and differential so that I can determine if it is a matching numbers car. Please decode the numbers. I know it is in code and without knowledge I will be lost. I have figured out the door tag and the VIN is in the fender frame. The car appear to be a nice survivor, just what I am looking for. All help would be appreciated. Photos and directions would be great.

[carlite65]

there is  a site dedicated to the K cars.   http://www.hipo-mustang.com

[Coralsnake]

You may want to consider hiring someone that can authenticate the car for you.

[J_Speegle]

Hello everyone, I am new to the forum and have been a Ford fan for years. I plan to look at a 1965 K code this week. Please provide me with the locations of the numbers (date codes) located on the engine, transmission and differential so that I can determine if it is a matching numbers car. Please decode the numbers. I know it is in code and without knowledge I will be lost...........

First welcome to the site.  Since your new you likely have not looked around the site but instead focused on your particular year and model of interest. There is a Library of articles lower down on the main page. In your year's library you will find an article on date codes and decoding them. Does not cover everything but most things and over fifty pages of information and pictures to help people with request like yours

Again welcome

[ACMkIV]

Thanks

[ACMkIV]

I bought the car today. Wimbledon White with red interior. Real GT. Plus what appears to be factory power steering!
I am very fortunate to have Lawrence Booth verify the VIN?s and date codes that it is a matching number car. 99.9% rust free. Odometer reads about 55000 miles. There is a piece of tape dated 7/92/52350 in the door jam. I am 67 and have had a few nice cars including a real AC Cobra. My first two years of high school an older kid drove me to school. He had a 65 K code coupe. Steel wheels and I think primer gray. Boy would that car run. The sound of that solid lifter engine and exhaust has brought me this car.

[jwc66k]

Congratulations. Enjoy, but -

Plus what appears to be factory power steering!

Factory power steering was not offered on a 65 HP Mustang. Dealers did add it though. About the GT part, the instrument cluster should look like a 66 cluster. That's the starting point to check.
Jim

[ACMkIV]

Dealer installed power steering is fine with me. The dash cluster is five gauge as part of the GT package.
I am planning to change all the fluids and replace with synthetics. Engine to differential including the brake and power steering fluids. What do you recommend? How about valve adjustment. What is the clearance? I am assuming this is a dual point distributor. Should I convert it to solid state? Any wise recommendation I should incorporate? Thanks for your help.

[rocket289k]

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the purchase.  The one thing that catches my eye is the 66 style gauge cluster in the car.  The GT gauge cluster in '65 is different.  It has "eyebrows" that form the outer part of the trim vs. the complete outline found on the 66 version.  I've attached a picture for your reference.


Ron

[CharlesTurner]

Dealer installed power steering is fine with me. The dash cluster is five gauge as part of the GT package.
I am planning to change all the fluids and replace with synthetics. Engine to differential including the brake and power steering fluids. What do you recommend? How about valve adjustment. What is the clearance? I am assuming this is a dual point distributor. Should I convert it to solid state? Any wise recommendation I should incorporate? Thanks for your help.

If you don't have one already, purchase a copy of the Ford Shop Manual.  They are available in hard copy or digital.

[sgl66]

Car looks like great. Curious how it was confirmed to be a factory GT? Did it come with original paperwork or is it a New Jersey car which typically have build sheets and/or buck tags.

Also regarding the instrument cluster, this site has a good image of the stamped cutout in the sheet metal but note that those were also done for pony interior cars so that alone would not be sufficient. http://www.mustangdreams.com/Verify-1965-1966-Mustang-GT.htm

Regarding valve clearance, that is determined by the cam manufacturer. Stock they were 0.018" hot on intake and exhaust but some aftermarket cams I know are 0.020 or 0.022. If you're unsure then a loose 0.018" is what I would do.

You can easily determine if the distributor is a correct dual point by either the part number and FoMoCo cast into. It should not have a vacuum port on the outside. Many people, me included have had no issue using Pertronix to replace the points, it's up to you.

Good luck and enjoy

[jwc66k]

I am planning to change all the fluids and replace with synthetics. Engine to differential including the brake and power steering fluids. What do you recommend?

Don't do this. Stay with the types that came with the car.

How about valve adjustment. What is the clearance? I am assuming this is a dual point distributor.

Read the Ford part number on the side of the distributor. It should read "C5OF-12127-E" and there should be a date code about a week to a month before your car's engine assembly date. Pop the cap and look. Get dirty. Crawl under the car. Get to know it.

Should I convert it to solid state?

No!
By the way, this is a Concourse Forum, so "modifications" are not really discussed in detail.
Jim

[carlite65]

i agree on all above points.

[sgl66]

A couple comments on brake fluid:

1. Check to see if it's been replaced with Silicone DOT 5 fluid, it's usually purple. If it has been replaced, DO NOT add DOT 3 or DOT 4. Same is true if it has typical DOT 3, DO NOT add DOT 5.

2. Bleeding the brakes on these cars with the Kelsey Hayes calipers gets out some of the old fluid and any air but, the bigger problem is that a lot of the old fluid stays in the caliper along with any moisture/crud because there is no drain at the bottom as you would find on today's calipers. Over time this can lead to rusted/frozen pistons and poor braking. I remove my calipers every 5 years and turn them upside down to let the fluid drain out and then refill and purge the air. If you do this, make sure you don't let the master cylinder run dry otherwise you'll need to take some extra steps to get the air out of the system.

[ACMkIV]

The previous owner does not have a build sheet so I will look for it once I received the car. I watched videos on the internet to verify it is true GT. I also received guidance from Lawrence Booth. If I am correct the five gauge cluster came with the GT package in 1965. Thank you for reminding me this is a concours forum regarding electronic ignition but with that being said we should be using old school petroleum oil from the 60?s instead of life extending synthetic oil. Thanks for the brake tip. The car appears to be an unmodified survivor. I am going to keep it in it?s present condition other than freshening up service and possibly swat the points out.

I plan to be at the Highlands Car Show in North Carolina in June showing my Morgan Plus 8 in the judged event and the K code in the open event the next day. Lawrence Booth will have his Boss 429 in the show. He owns the first 2+2 ever build that won best in class and best in show at the last show in Highlands. See you there.