Author Topic: Citric acid dipping parts and discussion from Boss 302 forum with pics.  (Read 2702 times)

Offline HDAshmore

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Good Evening Gents,

So there I was no $h1+. 

Standing in my garage this weekend really thinking hard on this Citric acid box. 

Having been an Army planner for several years I knew there was only two options, a plan that wont work, and a plan that might work.  I was trying to scheme up a plan that might work.  Then after thinking long and hard and ginning up this elaboarte box on wheels and drain and lined with flex seal and yak yak yak....  I remembered "use the KISS method"  when planning or it will usually fail.  I kept staring at the large blue thing standing in my garage and finally had my "here's your sign moment"!

Boss Forum member "Bossssssss", laid it all out in the beginning threads when he said plastic trash can and citric acid, dip and flip etc....  Thanks Bossssss, that's what I did, executed your plan that might work instead of building mine that might not.

I have pics of process and results so far.  It works great!  I will post this same thread with pics on the Concourse Mustang Forum so you can view before and after pics of the rear end housing plus what supplies I used.  See link below.

Bigger trash can from Menards may be better but you have to weigh volume of water and citric acid needed to fill it may be wasteful.    Hence why building a box is a material saver and good for oversized pieces.  If I were doing a door, hood or decklid.  Then I would absolutely build a box.  My trash can in the picture was 42" high so it more than covered the half way mark on my rear end length.

This stuff is safe once diluted, doesn't smell, can be disposed of down the drain, no acid burns and can be stored really easy.  Paid $22 on ebay for 10 pound bag with free shipping.

I mixed 4 cups of powder to however much water up to about three inches below top of can.  probably have 75% of bag left for future stuff. 

I recommend not wasting money on trash bags as all they did was rip due to sharp edges and heavy metal. 

In this one batch I have the rear end housing, two lower control arms and two really rusty front fender side marker retaining brackets.

The pics show only the first half of the housing after sitting for 20 hours in solution.

I did not sand or scrub anything, just wiped it down with #00 steel wool and rinsed, it will not take off paint (white blobs in pic) but does get rid of the rust and oil/sludge. 

When done I will, spray inside with WD-40 as Doug recommended and I will metal prep outside with PPG SX520 before spraying housing with DP-90.  At least that's the plan for now. 

Ill post more pics as I go on the Concourse forum.   

Thanks for everyone's inputs and comments.

Proudly wearing my "stuck on stupid" sign here in balmy Kansas.

Merry Christmas,
Dan
« Last Edit: December 22, 2020, 09:45:48 PM by HDAshmore »

Offline midlife

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Re: Citric acid dipping parts and discussion from Boss 302 forum with pics.
« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2020, 09:54:13 PM »
I've read that similar results can be obtained using feed-grade molasses, diluted with water. 
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Offline CharlesTurner

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Re: Citric acid dipping parts and discussion from Boss 302 forum with pics.
« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2020, 12:07:09 AM »
Thanks for posting, sounds promising.

One thing I'd recommend is to absolutely not spray wd-40 anywhere near the housing until after it's painted.
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Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Citric acid dipping parts and discussion from Boss 302 forum with pics.
« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2020, 01:08:09 AM »
Thanks for posting, sounds promising.

One thing I'd recommend is to absolutely not spray wd-40 anywhere near the housing until after it's painted.
To add - Or you will be sorry trying to keep your paint from fish eyeing . LOL
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline Coralsnake

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Re: Citric acid dipping parts and discussion from Boss 302 forum with pics.
« Reply #4 on: December 23, 2020, 09:04:37 AM »
Common lemon juice and water will do the same and you can drink it (before) 😀
« Last Edit: December 23, 2020, 09:07:21 AM by Coralsnake »

Offline 67gta289

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Re: Citric acid dipping parts and discussion from Boss 302 forum with pics.
« Reply #5 on: December 23, 2020, 12:37:31 PM »
Common lemon juice and water will do the same and you can drink it (before) 😀
What about drinking it before, letting your body process it, and then using it?  Or would that be a piss poor approach  8)
John
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Offline jwc66k

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Re: Citric acid dipping parts and discussion from Boss 302 forum with pics.
« Reply #6 on: December 23, 2020, 12:38:47 PM »
I recommend Jose Cuervo be added, "for internal use only". Nuff said.
Jim
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Offline jwc66k

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Re: Citric acid dipping parts and discussion from Boss 302 forum with pics.
« Reply #7 on: December 23, 2020, 12:55:23 PM »
To add - Or you will be sorry trying to keep your paint from fish eyeing . LOL
The "laugh" is on you, the painter. I was in the finishing up touches on a '62 Triumph TR3 (silver gray - it was sharp) when a drop of oil hit the cowl. I said "words". I "lubricated" the gun.
Jim
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Offline HDAshmore

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Re: Citric acid dipping parts and discussion from Boss 302 forum with pics.
« Reply #8 on: December 23, 2020, 04:18:52 PM »
Well $hiiiiiii++++++++++++++!

Damned if I didn't get up and get after it with final soak and scrub oif first half.  Then liberally sprayed that half with WD-40 and set back down in tank the other half!

Did I say $$$$$hIIIIIIIIIIII+++++++++ enough yet?

Looks like I will be buying a case of brake cleaner and spraying the $hIII+++++++++++ out of it. 

Holding off on the Cuervo as suggested, me thinks my mistake may call for alot of very fine Scotch to get through this possible Conundrum.

I will post pics tonight of the control arms and marker light brakets

Still wearing my sign with humility in Kansas

Dan




Offline HDAshmore

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Gents,

Control arms and marker light brackets soaked 36 hours, I pulled them out and scrubbed for first time.  Still leaves paint and undercoating but all else looks really nice for effort.

Probably 5-10 minutes on each scrubbing lightly with brush in bucket with warm water and dish soap.  I'd compare it to washing a pan in the sink for effort expended.

The brush from home depot was spot on for getting in nooks and crannies of the control arms and brackets.

Dan 
« Last Edit: December 23, 2020, 05:29:33 PM by HDAshmore »

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Citric acid dipping parts and discussion from Boss 302 forum with pics.
« Reply #10 on: December 23, 2020, 05:34:17 PM »
I know of a number of painters that will adamantly defend not letting WD 40 even in the building of the shop for fear of a tiny spray particles drifting in the air and landing on parts somewhere else in the shop that are in the process being painted or may need to be painted in the future. I shudder thinking of liberally dousing a part with WD 40 that needs to be painted. I suppose it just has to happen once (fish eyes)and know the cause of the problem for that kind of defensive thinking.
« Last Edit: December 23, 2020, 07:47:34 PM by Bob Gaines »
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline preaction

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Re: Citric acid dipping parts and discussion from Boss 302 forum with pics.
« Reply #11 on: December 23, 2020, 06:48:41 PM »
Looks like a great outcome in light of the cost verses the cost of a 5 gallon pail of Evap o rust.
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Offline midlife

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Re: Citric acid dipping parts and discussion from Boss 302 forum with pics.
« Reply #12 on: December 23, 2020, 09:52:04 PM »
What about drinking it before, letting your body process it, and then using it?  Or would that be a piss poor approach  8)
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Offline HDAshmore

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Re: Citric acid dipping parts and discussion from Boss 302 forum with pics.
« Reply #13 on: December 23, 2020, 10:31:18 PM »
Bob,

I'm with you on this whole WD-40 brain fart!

Epic mistake on my part not thinking that through all the way.  I was worried about flash rust and not thinking paint.  Maybe I should of metal prepped that half instead of spraying WD-40.  In your opinion would a bath in ZEP degreaser, then brake cleaner dousing fix it.  Then maybe metal prep followed by wax and grease remover before painting?  Or is that overkill?

I do remember now that back in my body shop days 30 years ago; silicone anything was not allowed in the shop for fear of a beating by the shop boss.  Damn, I knew better but lost sight of it.

Dan 




 

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Citric acid dipping parts and discussion from Boss 302 forum with pics.
« Reply #14 on: December 23, 2020, 11:37:24 PM »
Bob,

I'm with you on this whole WD-40 brain fart!

Epic mistake on my part not thinking that through all the way.  I was worried about flash rust and not thinking paint.  Maybe I should of metal prepped that half instead of spraying WD-40.  In your opinion would a bath in ZEP degreaser, then brake cleaner dousing fix it.  Then maybe metal prep followed by wax and grease remover before painting?  Or is that overkill?

I do remember now that back in my body shop days 30 years ago; silicone anything was not allowed in the shop for fear of a beating by the shop boss.  Damn, I knew better but lost sight of it.

Dan
Dan,it sounds like you have a good strategy. I kept to my paint prep training learned years ago and so have not had the fish eye problem . The down side is that I don't know how to successfully advise on the best way to mitigate the problem.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby