Topic: Expert paint help needed.

[truetriplex]

I have my car at paint and need some help/advice.  I want to have the car painted using Glasurit top of the line paint.  The paint shop uses PPG (Global) and had already put the PPG primer on the car.  In speaking with Glasurit, the say that they will not guaranty their paint UNLESS we strip off the PPG and red the car in Glasurit primer.  From the paint experts out there, is it OK to put the Glasurit over the PPG? What could/will happen if I do? I have used Glasurit on two previous cars and was EXTREMELY happy with everything on the paint and I do like Glasurit (and Sikkens and BASF) over PPG, DuPont, and other paints out there and don’t want to change.

[Bob Gaines]

I have my car at paint and need some help/advice.  I want to have the car painted using Glasurit top of the line paint.  The paint shop uses PPG (Global) and had already put the PPG primer on the car.  In speaking with Glasurit, the say that they will not guaranty their paint UNLESS we strip off the PPG and red the car in Glasurit primer.  From the paint experts out there, is it OK to put the Glasurit over the PPG? What could/will happen if I do? I have used Glasurit on two previous cars and was EXTREMELY happy with everything on the paint and I do like Glasurit (and Sikkens and BASF) over PPG, DuPont, and other paints out there and don’t want to change.

I am not a paint expert but have been around quite a few during my many car painting process's as well as other enthusiast and restorer interactions.I never had the patience for paint and body work plus I did not want to risk my lungs with exposure . The one universal thing I have learned is not to mix paint line materials ..... There are non recommended combinations that will work however if they do not then you are on your own. With the ever changing ingredient nature of paint lines a combination may work one time and the next because of a slightly different paint mfg formula change it will not.  It reads like your mind is already made up and you are only looking for like minded opinion confirmation. It is ultimately your choice to make the hard choice of redoing the primers , compromise your perception and use a top of the line PPG product over the PPG primer or roll the dice and spray the Glasurit over the PPG primer and not have any kind of a warranty.

[carlite65]

I have my car at paint and need some help/advice.  I want to have the car painted using Glasurit top of the line paint.  The paint shop uses PPG (Global) and had already put the PPG primer on the car.  In speaking with Glasurit, the say that they will not guaranty their paint UNLESS we strip off the PPG and red the car in Glasurit primer.  From the paint experts out there, is it OK to put the Glasurit over the PPG? What could/will happen if I do? I have used Glasurit on two previous cars and was EXTREMELY happy with everything on the paint and I do like Glasurit (and Sikkens and BASF) over PPG, DuPont, and other paints out there and don’t want to change.

when you initially discussed procedures did you specify the type/brand of materials? who supplied the materials? i agree with bob on his points.

[J_Speegle]

From my experiences I don't like providing built in excuses. If something goes wrong they have more outs or reasons why it didn't come out right even though it might not be the reason.

Same reason not to use one place for body work and one for paint IMHO. When stuff happens their going blame one another

Sure there are examples out there were everything went well but you have to consider the risk verses cost, effort and possible outcome IMHO. We do this everyday with so many things.

[midlife]

If you stay with the PPG primer, you'll have to let it cure so that there will be no chemical bond with the Glasurit paint when applied.  When cured, it will need to be scuffed so that a mechanical bond can be made with the topcoat(s).  It can be done, but you will lose the assurance from the painters that anything that turns out incorrectly will be his fault. 

Paint is very expensive, as is the labor for painting.  My advice is to go with whatever comes with a warranty.

[RoyceP]

I would let the painter do his job. If the paint has a problem will the painter stand behind his work? That's the question you need to ask. A paint company will warranty the materials. If a defect can be traced to faulty materials they will replace the materials. 

I have seen faulty materials cause huge problems but it is quite rare. Many more problems can be caused by faulty application. I for one would want all the materials to come from the same supplier.

I have my car at paint and need some help/advice.  I want to have the car painted using Glasurit top of the line paint.  The paint shop uses PPG (Global) and had already put the PPG primer on the car.  In speaking with Glasurit, the say that they will not guaranty their paint UNLESS we strip off the PPG and red the car in Glasurit primer.  From the paint experts out there, is it OK to put the Glasurit over the PPG? What could/will happen if I do? I have used Glasurit on two previous cars and was EXTREMELY happy with everything on the paint and I do like Glasurit (and Sikkens and BASF) over PPG, DuPont, and other paints out there and don’t want to change.

[truetriplex]

I have no problem with the painter doing his job.  Unfortunately (for me) he likes to shoot PPG but "I" feel that the Glasurit provides a MUCH deeper paint job.  The paint shop had already primed the car with the PPG (knowing I wanted Glasurit and then when he went to get the Glasurit, he was informed that they wouldn't guaranty the paint unless he used Glasurit across the board.  I would like to know if anyone has shot Glasuit paint on PPG primer (or similar combinations) and had problems with the paint later on?  Would it be safe for me to have Glasurit on top of PPG?

[69bossnut]

All paint companies will tell you they won’t garuantee there product if mixed with other brands. But will still have all kinds of outs if there product has problems. I personally like using the same brand all the way through which is PPG. But I have used a mix of products in the past when I had to. The main thing is make sure you do some research & don’t mix something stupid. Like spraying DPLF Epoxy you have an open time of 6 days to respray without sanding with their paints or primers. I would not spray a competitors over that without sanding it making a mechanical bond. Basically if they used DPLF Epoxy primer & K38 high build primers. You should not have any issues with any current top coat as long as the prep is done correctly ie. sanding/scuffing & wax grease remover wipe down. You should not have any bonding issues as long as you have created a mechanical bond from sanding. But that’s just my take & opinion from over the years.

[Bob Gaines]

I have no problem with the painter doing his job.  Unfortunately (for me) he likes to shoot PPG but "I" feel that the Glasurit provides a MUCH deeper paint job.  The paint shop had already primed the car with the PPG (knowing I wanted Glasurit and then when he went to get the Glasurit, he was informed that they wouldn't guaranty the paint unless he used Glasurit across the board.  I would like to know if anyone has shot Glasuit paint on PPG primer (or similar combinations) and had problems with the paint later on?  Would it be safe for me to have Glasurit on top of PPG?

Like I said before It reads like your mind is already made up and you are only looking for like minded opinion confirmation given you restated in your first post basically the exact same thing in reply #6. I hope whatever choice you make gives good results regardless of the odds and Murphy's law kicking in. 

[Bossbill]

An issue we also have here is that you said primer, without clarification.
First, let's assume they are all two part (2k primers).
There are etch primers. non-etch primers, primer surfacers and primer sealers.

Assuming the last thing on the car was a primer sealer -- which by its name indicates it is a barrier sealer coat between all the previous work and the next color coat layer -- you should be ok if painted within the re-coat window of the sealer or if mechanically scuffed.

However (uh oh), no painter I know will warranty their paint job if their product line isn't being used from cradle to grave. Just use the PPG line. It's a very good paint line.

Have your painter do a test sprayout on some 1 gallon paint cans using the paint sealer you have on the car and the B/C system in PPG.

[big bad blue]

 Just finished spraying PPG Grabber Blue. Looks great. Knowing what this cost, I can't image what that Glasuit stuff cost. But the most critical layer of painting is the first layer going over either primer or sealer. Goes over itself much easier. Second or third coats NEVER fixes the coat below.
 Let the painter spay what he is happy with. If anything goes wrong using (your) brand. You don't have a leg to stand on. Good Luck.

[bryancobb]

I would suspect you want what you want because the Foose folks have elevated it to the top.

PPG has been the standard in almost every genre' of vehicles for decades.  I just had a 94 Camaro painted with the new water based PPG stuff and we are 10
months into it and it still looks assembly-line perfect.

Stripping the PPG primer off will be costly.  It sounds like the paint shop you have chosen has already dropped-the-ball because the topcoat must be applied within a certain
time-window (something like 6 to 12 hours) for chemical crosslinking to take place.  Otherwise every surface must be sanded or it won't stick.  A mechanical bond is not near as good as chemical covalent bonds.

If I was getting a high end car painted, I'd let the paint shop use the brand they are used to.  I'd personally download the Product Data Sheets for each product used from metal repair to metal prep, to primer to topcoat.  I'd study them.  Then I would require all the products to be from the same manufacturer and in their same Paint System.  I would cover every tiny detail on the Product Data Sheets with my painter, especially adhering to application wait-times between coats and products.  Pay attention to temperature and humidity specifications and have them provide proof that their booth fell within those specs. 

I am prepping my body right now for paint.  I am spending about 2 hours per square foot cleaning to bare metal with stainless wire brush on a grinder.  Then I am lightly priming with PPG epoxy primer as I finish, in about 9 sq ft blocks.  This will keep rust "bloom" from occurring until the whole car is finished.  Then when my chosen paint shop starts work, they will remove my primer (probably by low pressure abrasive blasting with fine medium) immediately before applying their first primer coat.

[Bossbill]

I had the Boss shot in PPG Deltron almost 20 years ago and it still looks great.
But it's not like I park it outside.

[1969 Cale II]

I have crossed products for years and have never had a problem. I have even mixed different products together and no problem. BUT, you have to know what your doing and looking at. Will your painter stand behind his work if he uses what you want? `He should be smart enough to know what a chemical bond is and a mechanical  bond is. I worked for a shop that used Glasuit over  regular stuff. Cured primer and sanded before paint and should have no problems. Manufacture wants you to use only their stuff, sales crap.