Topic: Scott Drake 67 Dash Ashtray

[Bossbill]

Any comments on the Scott Drake ashtray?
How close to original? The pics don't tell me much. Would need one in hand to see.

It appears there is no such thing as an original ashtray that isn't pitted to death.

[67gtasanjose]

Any comments on the Scott Drake ashtray?
How close to original? The pics don't tell me much. Would need one in hand to see.

It appears there is no such thing as an original ashtray that isn't pitted to death.

Side by side, they are a good match. The visible face that is riveted on is ok but stamped with distortion that can be reworked or used as is but I chose to use my original face and rivet it onto the liner after it was painted (like the factory did).

Here's the kickers I had. You knew there would be..
1.) The plating process leaves an internal corner unplated. I returned my first one to NPD Michigan and asked that they look at their replacement before  shipping. He said they were all like this, all he had on hand anyways.
The solution to this defect is to have the new liner replated.
2.) The latch, or tab that you push down, does not catch the receiver side correctly (the receiver side is the original bracket that screws into the dash, it is not provided with the new ash tray). Re-plate your original "tab" and re-use it.

Note: when replating your original receiver bracket, be careful to protect the hinge pin. The hinge pin is attached at the bottom of the bracket.. Mine came back from the plater WITHOUT the hinge pin. We are not sure how this happened but wonder if an acid dip I used before sending it, dissolved the rivets or retainers and it fell out.

[Bossbill]

Thanks Richard. I may have to pop on the tray.

[ruppstang]

Bill I may have a nice original, I'll look this afternoon.

[Bossbill]

Here are the pics I took of an original vs. the Drake.
Other than the location and style of the front  spot welds they are real close.
As mentioned by richard the very rear of the tray is very light of coating.
The metal painted front has an issue at the bend as shown.

[Bob Gaines]

Nice .Too bad they couldn't have made more dimensional the same when compared to the original including the front surface bend.

[Bossbill]

The biggest flaws are the front spot welds.
The side rivets look ok on the outside, but the inside is the wrong color and maybe size
With a bit of mud the front could be fixed.
I may fix the front and use it while I look for a perfect one

[67gtasanjose]

Bill, look at this reply in this thread on Grille Rivets.

I made a tool that was designed to ALSO squeeze the ash tray rivets.

I can send you a few rivets and might even loan you the tool if you ask nicely

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=13842.15

Here are some pics. My fabricated tool worked pretty good

I might add some friction washers before using this on my refinished parts, (and lubricant) to keep the concave-die from spinning (the die could score adjoining painted surfaces while spinning with the threaded rod) Other than that "possible issue", I have no issues squeezing these steel, zinc plated 1/8" x 1/8" tubular rivets. Looks 99.9% factory to me

[Deuce]

A few more ashtray pics to compare / contrast.  Original piece from my 67 coupe.  Dark smudge over RH spot weld is caused by rubber bumper in the dash (the subject of another thread).  There are also LH and RH stamped numbers on the inside panels.  Orange peel in the factory Ivy Gold paint.

[Bossbill]

As I was walking by the kitchen island -- where I had the ashtrays sitting -- my wife looks at me and says, "You know those are different lengths? The new one is almost 1/8 inch longer."
She's always had this incredible eye for sizes so I carefully lined them up again, and she's right.
The end with the two spot welds is almost 1/8 inch or so longer than the original. It appears this additional length is what causes the cover plate to buckle.

Although I've very little luck with my plating process I may have to try again and see if I can get the original ashtray to work out.

In other words, this has gone from an interesting option to a not recommended.

[Bob Gaines]

As I was walking by the kitchen island -- where I had the ashtrays sitting -- my wife looks at me and says, "You know those are different lengths? The new one is almost 1/8 inch longer."
She's always had this incredible eye for sizes so I carefully lined them up again, and she's right.
The end with the two spot welds is almost 1/8 inch or so longer than the original. It appears this additional length is what causes the cover plate to buckle.

Although I've very little luck with my plating process I may have to try again and see if I can get the original ashtray to work out.

In other words, this has gone from an interesting option to a not recommended.

Because of the shape of the ash tray I do not think that the plating will take well on the inside of the ash tray. You may have good plating on the outside and a portion of the inside but less then satisfactory on the inside recesses. Commercial plating yes but not the home plating system. If you want good full consistent coverage plating results I would suggest getting enough items for a minimum order and do them commercially .

[Bossbill]

I'm ready to try an experiment with my original ashtray. The thing about plating is that it is very easy to remove with muriatic acid with no damage. And I can place a small section of anode inside the ashtray and try to plate it that way.

But the finish of the Drake item bothers me. Since I've never seen a hermetically sealed original ashtray how bright would the cad be? The Drake item appears to have a 120 grit finish and is very bright. I think they either blasted the hell out of the metal with aggressive media or used a flame spray type of process prior to plating.

Is it supposed to be a bit on the dull side like the area around the lighter that Deuce showed here?

[jwc66k]

I've got a leftover original 67 dash ashtray in my "things to think about" (aka procrastinate) box, and it still has some plating on the outside and a small bit at the base on the inside. After 50 some odd years, I can't say if it's cad or zinc, but it is plated. Only the face plate is painted.
Jim

[Bossbill]

I guess I'm looking for a 50 year old picture of the ashtray. 

Meanwhile, the ashtray is in the soup and I'll see what I get.

[Bossbill]

Here's what I did.

I cut out a piece of anode and rigged it inside the ashtray with insulated wire. Ran the mix for a while and got an ok finish. Did it again and it got better. I don't want it to get too much better as I had to sand the inside to get rid of surface rust.
Did the sides and back by putting the bucket anodes on just one side and rotated the ashtray a few times.

Looks pretty good and I'll leave it at this. The Drake piece will go into the "sell all this stuff later" shelf. It's getting kinda full.