Topic: 1968 S-Code Clutch Lever Problem

[TonyH]

Car is a Feb 1968 SJ build.  390 HiPo with a 4 sp Toploader.

I had to replace my flywheel as it was missing a couple teeth an playing havoc with the starter.  While I had the transmission out, I decided to replace the clutch and used this kit from RAM: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ram-88769hdx/requiredparts/year/1968?prefilter=1.  Got it all back together and cannot adjust the correct clutch freeplay.

What's happening is when I try to adjust the 0.178" gap on the lower pushrod, the relief lever is getting hit by something when the engine is running (pressure plate maybe?) and making an incredible amount of noise.  The noise won't stop until I dial the the pushrod out until the lever has no freeplay whatsoever.  I believe the throwout bearing is actually partially engaged at this setting and I have no freeplay whatsoever at the pedal.  Everything looks fine from the inspection door and release lever opening (lever in pivot slot and anti rattle spring engaged).  Can't see any signs of impact but visibility is limited.

I believe the issue is either an incorrect release lever (appears aftermarket) or the pressure plate is incorrect for this application.  I'm attaching some pictures of the release lever.  Sorry for the angle but was not expecting to need these pictures and I haven't had time to pull the transmission out again.

Looking for ideas and/or comments on the release lever being correct for this application or if anyone has had a similar experience with the RAM kits.

v/r
Tony

[TonyH]

Had to pull the trans to figure it out.  Looks like a PO had a similar issue and ground down the bolt heads on the PP to get enough clearance to adjust instead of just fixing the issue.

I believe the clutch lever is incorrect as everything else appears original to the car.  Looking for the correct clutch lever to compare but hopefully I can reuse the clutch/PP.

Pictures attached FYSA.  Probably never see this one again though.

v/r
Tony

[1967FEGT]

Tony:
Is your imput shaft 1 1/16 or 1 3/8? It looks as if the Throw out bearing is oval, not round. Your imput shaft may be making contact with the sleeve.
Take the T/O off the fork and slide it on the front bearing retainer and see if it makes any contact.  The opening in the T/O bearing should be perfectly round.

[1967FEGT]

The lever appears to be a 1967 release lever in a 68. They may have been used early on. Can you remove the lever out of the bellhousing and post a picture of the lever pivot?  The black lever with the clip is the 68' style. The 67' style uses a wire clip that runs through the small holes on the side.

[427Fastback]

Just assembled mine last night.I have a 427 but its the same set up...I have never seen this issue before.
Its hard for me to tell but it looks like you have the clip in the clutch fork backwards..The clip has a off set and it should be offset to the bearing.The tab to clip it in is forward of the pivot point..If installed wrong it will pull the fork inwards...Not saying that's the problem..
That is the same fork as the one I have in my 68...
You didn't have to buy a new flywheel (not saying its a bad thing)The ring gear can be easily pulled off and rotated or turned around.Engine always stops in the same place..
I have no experience with Ram clutches..I use Mcleod..

[427Fastback]

The lever appears to be a 1967 release lever in a 68. They may have been used early on. Can you remove the lever out of the bellhousing and post a picture of the lever pivot?  The black lever with the clip is the 68' style. The 67' style uses a wire clip that runs through the small holes on the side.

He has the correct lever for that bellhousing...You cannot switch them with out changing the pivot bracket...

[1967FEGT]

I personally have got away from the heavy Borg and Beck lever clutches period. I am running a Centerforce Dual Friction. It holds 600 horsepower. I am running an auminum flywheel as well.
I don't have a picture of my lever but I see extra material in the opening where the T/O bearing sleeve is. The clip won't cause the issue.

Also make sure you can't wiggle the input shaft all over the place. If the front bearing is bad it'll make a hell of a lot of noise too.

[1967FEGT]

Yes, they don't interchange without the using the replacement pivot.

[1967FEGT]

My apologies. I'm working from a cell phone.

[427Fastback]

It's not a Borg and Beck...Its a long style...The bearing could indeed be the issue..I wont touch one unless it has a bearing # on it..As in SKF or BC Bower....

[1967FEGT]

I agree. Chinese trash is just that.  I had an issue with a NOS ford unit a few years ago. Choices are limited with 1 3/8 input units.
 Yes, Long, Borg and Beck. Finger styles. They're hard on factory linkage.

[Bossbill]

The 67 S-code clutch fork does not have a hole in it. It's of the cone style like the 289.
And it uses the wire clip to hold it to the pivot. It is much longer than a 289 fork.
There may be a 67 late style S-code version that has that large hole, but I suspect it would have the later pivot too.
The cone style is evidently very hard to find.

[Bossbill]

I personally have got away from the heavy Borg and Beck lever clutches period. I am running a Centerforce Dual Friction. It holds 600 horsepower. I am running an auminum flywheel as well.
I don't have a picture of my lever but I see extra material in the opening where the T/O bearing sleeve is. The clip won't cause the issue.

Also make sure you can't wiggle the input shaft all over the place. If the front bearing is bad it'll make a hell of a lot of noise too.

I've also moved on from Long and B&B style to Centerforce clutches.

I have a pic of the 67 S-code lever if interested.

[Bob Gaines]

I've also moved on from Long and B&B style to Centerforce clutches.

I have a pic of the 67 S-code lever if interested.

That's a shame I just got back a original Ford 10 1/2 Hipo clutch and pressure plate from the rebuilder.

[Bossbill]

Bob likes to spend my money. And I usually thank him for it.

The clutch linkage in the Shelby was so wonky from worn out clutch pedal pieces that I had to replace the roller on the parking brake -- the pedal hit it.