Topic: C8ZE-L1 radiator restoration

[keeper]

I have a C8ZE-L1 radiator that I am having the core replaced and need tips on what to strip the old paint with. Any help is appreciated.

[jwc66k]

A good radiator shop should be able to do that, and paint the radiator.
Jim

[Bob Gaines]

I have a C8ZE-L1 radiator that I am having the core replaced and need tips on what to strip the old paint with. Any help is appreciated.

I have the radiator shop after they separated all of the components (side straps ,top tank and bottom tank) give them back to me so I can better prep the parts for re assembly. Radiator shops may be able to get most of the paint off but are typically ill prepared to do anything beyond that. The side straps that are steel can be crusty with various levels of rust.  I typically bead blast and body work the side straps leaving the top and bottom ends of the straps bare steel for the hot soldering process used for to attach them to the top and bottom tanks. The top and bottom tanks I strip thoroughly by bead blast,chemical strip  etc. before metal working any small dents out. When damage is something beyond my skill level I give to a auto metal working friend to metal work out the problems. I leave the top and bottom bare metal. I give the completed pieces back to the radiator shop to assemble. There are some shops that specialize in classic antique radiators  but the vast majority ether will not have any idea what level of work you are looking for. Some say they do and don't deliver.  That is why I do the prep myself that way any competent shop can do it given you give then ready prepared parts for re assembly. Just what I do.   

[7Lscjracer]

Yeah most shops will paint it high gloss black and you'll find a little newspaper stuck to the core where they flip it over to paint the other side when the first side is still wet.
I'm speaking of my radiator I had recored in the mid eighties.
There's a certain percent gloss level that's correct, but I don't know what it is off the top of my head.
I recall hearing of a special radiator core black paint that doesn't impede cooling like ordinary paint, so that's worth looking into too.

[carlite65]

radiator paint at eastwood company would be a good choice. do as much prep as you can. you will be glad you did.

[J_Speegle]

Just my 2 cents. First take a bunch of pictures of the radiator so that you or the shop (if needed to hold someone accountable) can refresh their memory of the details. Which strap is on which side, rod location and other things. Since your not going to need to strip the core (what a pain for many ) the task is not that much a a problem. You can use some aircraft stripper for the task. After talking first see if they are ok with you disassembling the radiator (side straps from the rest and top or bottom tank if those need any work), restoring the surfaces and then supplying those parts back to the shop for core replacement and reassembly. You can specify that they leave it unpainted so that you can do that task if you choose.

Don't expect that a shop will care or have any idea of how to restore your radiator. That is not their typical job. Good luck finding a core  as this has been the biggest challenge for many since many look very different from originals. Ask to see one and compare for yourself

There are a number of threads on the paint, process and the results of heat cycles on the finish - on this site.


Good luck with your project

[keeper]

Well thank you all for the valuable information. So far I have done exactly as outlined except for photos. However the radiator guy Roger marked the side straps with a little x scratch. I was going to bead blast the tank top, bottom and straps but was advised to strip them with the airplane metal stripper. They turned out great. Now I will return them to the shop to be recored with the new core that I paid 491 bucks plus shipping for. Roger said it is the closest thing to what I had available on the market today. Out of Denver Co. He does quite a few restoration cars in this area. VH1 or some thing like that. If It isn't right I will be back on here looking for advise before I finish the job. With out question I will personally prime it and paint it black satin when it is done at Rogers shop. Racerscj stated ther may be a correct paint for the project and I will do some home work on it as well.

[J_Speegle]

..........With out question I will personally prime it and paint it black satin when it is done at Rogers shop. Racerscj stated ther may be a correct paint for the project and I will do some home work on it as well.

NO primer. It will only insulate and reduce the heat exchange not something you want on a radiator. Instead a nice light but full coat of a gloss black radiator paint (made for the purpose) - often a lacquer based paint. The gloss will only last a few heat cycles and then take on a more semi-gloss look

[Bob Gaines]

NO primer. It will only insulate and reduce the heat exchange not something you want on a radiator. Instead a nice light but full coat of a gloss black radiator paint (made for the purpose) - often a lacquer based paint. The gloss will only last a few heat cycles and then take on a more semi-gloss look

+1. You only might want to prime the side straps but as I indicated you need to leave the top and bottom ends bare steel for the soldering process. I think the air craft stripper is a extra step on the side straps given they typically have corrosion under the paint which will have to be removed anyway if using air craft stripper. Bead blasting the side straps is the best, fastest and typically least expensive way to accomplish the clean corrosion free metal that you need in this case. If there are any pits in the metal then this is the time to body work those out too. Be careful not to fill the engineering numbers and dates.  Primers and fillers need fresh metal to work properly too.Eastwood sells the special radiator paint. It typically goes on as a gloss black but dulls down to more of a semigloss after a few heat and cool cycles. The semi gloss black sheen is what is typically expected to be seen. 

[J_Speegle]

................................. I think the air craft stripper is a extra step on the side straps given they typically have corrosion under the paint which will have to be removed anyway if using air craft stripper. Bead blasting the side straps is the best, fastest and typically least expensive way to accomplish the clean corrosion free metal that you need in this case. If there are any pits in the metal then this is the time to body work those out too. ...................................

Agreed - just depends on what you start with. Not all are rusty and I personally don't want to introduce any texture into the surface metal I don't need to to protect those markings and even, if possible, the smooth metal surfaces if un-needed. Realize its a benefit when you start with nice southwest metal

[keeper]

You guys are great. I so much appreciated your expert tips. I will take your advise and not use primer but instead get the correct radiator black gloss. I will also bead blast the side straps. I actually bought this radiator from Bob and the tank top and bottom look just fine to me. Stripper nailed it. Straps are perfect as well. Unfortunately, it had some several leaks and I just decided to make it right considering the class of car it is going on. Thank you gentlemen !

[specialed]

Depending on which plant car was built radiator vendor changes west coast vs east Modine and the 3 different side strap running changes are noticeably different depending on when car was built.

[keeper]

I think you are correct with notable differences in the looks of radiators from plant to plant. I have two FoMoCo SCJ L1's and they are different.

[keeper]

Took these photos of the new core and prep work done on C8ZE L1 Radiator.

[cobrajet_carl]

Looks like a 9KC date code?