Author Topic: Stock 302 Dearborn engine  (Read 951 times)

jperls

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Stock 302 Dearborn engine
« on: July 02, 2020, 02:50:17 AM »
Hi everyone,

So I have not been on here in years because well life...and honestly, after the last time I posted, I realized that I had a lot of work to do on the engine bay of the car, and I guess I got a little intimidated by the list of things to fix. Well, now that I have had some time...I thought I might post what I have done and I am curious as to what I still might have to do.

A couple of things to note:

1. My original radiator gave up the ghost and I had to replace it. I now have a 3-core aluminum radiator and I must admit, I know this is not concourse, but from a drivability standpoint I will take it. And yes, I still have the original radiator with the idea of getting it re-cored again (will do a 3-core...again not concours since it was originally a 2-core, but this is a driver and I just want a good example of a stock looking engine).

2. I just painted the oil breather cap this evening to gloss black...so it is not the flat back that is in the picture (at least not anymore). Also replaced oil breather grommet with NOS one (thank you deadnutson.com) and breather to air cleaner hose with correct date-coded hose (again thank you deadnutson.com).

3. Had to replace the battery...will get another Autolite reproduction one eventually

4. The vacuum port assembly is aftermarket, original was replaced when engine was rebuilt

5. Distributor is rebuilt Cardone model. Original was replaced by mechanic...this goes for vacuum advance as well. However, I have sourced an original correct date-coded distributor housing with the hopes of rebuilding the distributor with that housing and getting the correct dual vacuum advance unit.

6. I found my original fender bolts and put those back on (well almost all...missing three...need to find or buy replacements). Were these supposed to be phosphate coated?

7. Yes I need to get a new radiator cap

8. Yes I still have not done the 3M caulking along the fenders...I'm actually not entirely sure how to do it...just stuff it in there or is there a special method?

9. I know I have rust in a lot of places (fuel lines, coil bracket, heater hose attachment points

10. Water pump was replaced...have not painted it yet (will do so and also do intake manifold at same time).

11. Just replaced all the power steering components. I tried out the concours hoses and power steering control valve from NPD, but they became a real headache really fast (did not fit / not manufactured correctly and let air into the system...made a terrible screeching noise...so I returned them and settled for the modern-day stuff...at least the car is now drivable).

Have I missed anything else?

Thanks
« Last Edit: July 02, 2020, 02:59:01 AM by jperls »

jperls

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Re: Stock 302 Dearborn engine
« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2020, 02:20:33 PM »
One other question...was it common for these 302's to come with the vacuum type snorkel on the air cleaner? Mine originally came with that, but I was unsure if it was correct so I replaced it with the thermostatic type. Here is a picture of what the engine used to look like (yes it was a mess).

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Stock 302 Dearborn engine
« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2020, 04:05:27 PM »
Think we're best to start out with more information on the car since you don't have it in your signature

When was the car built?

What transmission?

Is it a Calif emission system equipped car?

And did you happen to look at the thread below? Located in the Unrestored picture section of the site

70 F code - Early Dearborn - Unrestored Picture Thread 
« Last Edit: July 02, 2020, 04:22:31 PM by J_Speegle »
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Stock 302 Dearborn engine
« Reply #3 on: July 02, 2020, 04:13:09 PM »
Just cherry picking a few to respond to at this point

4. The vacuum port assembly is aftermarket, original was replaced when engine was rebuilt

Your car may not have had one originally. Will wait until we find out more about the car


6. I found my original fender bolts and put those back on (well almost all...missing three...need to find or buy replacements). Were these supposed to be phosphate coated?

No they were not phosphated originally. Unlike other years they were zinc


8. Yes I still have not done the 3M caulking along the fenders...I'm actually not entirely sure how to do it...just stuff it in there or is there a special method?

Not a detail that is often seen on a assembled car in 70 or at least like we see other years and models in general. If adding/replacing it would mean that your going to need to pull the fenders up the full length of the engine compartment
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Stock 302 Dearborn engine
« Reply #4 on: July 02, 2020, 04:21:32 PM »
One other question...was it common for these 302's to come with the vacuum type snorkel on the air cleaner? Mine originally came with that, but I was unsure if it was correct so I replaced it with the thermostatic type. ..

It appears that you now have the correct style and design with the heat shroud. The picture with the vacuum control on the snorkel its from a different application.
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

jperls

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Re: Stock 302 Dearborn engine
« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2020, 11:31:24 PM »
Think we're best to start out with more information on the car since you don't have it in your signature

When was the car built?

What transmission?

Is it a Calif emission system equipped car?

And did you happen to look at the thread below? Located in the Unrestored picture section of the site

70 F code - Early Dearborn - Unrestored Picture Thread

Here is the Marti report and personalized stats for the car. Just FYI, this car was my mother's and she bought it used in 1971 and I did the frame-on restoration in 2009 (not concours mind you for paint and interior color), but still. Also, the car does have the gas tank snorkle in the back so I am certain this car has California emissions stuff.


Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Stock 302 Dearborn engine
« Reply #6 on: July 03, 2020, 06:58:32 PM »
...I thought I might post what I have done and I am curious as to what I still might have to do.

Well not to be unkind with a response  would offer that you asked so the following is just that, an attempt to help with at least some things you could do.

- Of course with the radiator you have most looking to view a restored car will quickly turn away sine this so predominate and visible being a different design and unpainted

- Just starting at the back of the picture you provided which does not provide allot of depth. The firewall and cowl black paint does not match the inner fender panels

- Items installed/attached to the firewall and visible cowl panel (unibody above the firewall to cowl pinch welded) are all painted. Originally nothing except for the PB booster and master cylinder. Its finish likely varied from the firewall black and not painted once installed. The picture thread I suggested would provide you a idea of what they looked like. This would include but not limited to:

rubber plugs
electrical wiring
electrical screws
wiper motor mounting hardware
shock tower support bracket bolts and nuts
though its not visible would guess that the plastic vacuum manifold attached to the firewall is not unpainted nor has a instruction sticker on it in good condition

- Missing the retaining "T" bracket installed on the wiper motor wiring at the drivers side firewall to cowl pinch weld

- Hood hinges and springs should be P&O  not painted. Hardware was not painted.  So remove and replate 

- Rear front wheel well splash shield retaining screw head would not be painted.  So remove and replate 

- Shock tower support brackets would have been slop gray as described in other threads

- Front shock upper mounts (bee hives) were originally P&O and not rattle canned black nor was the mounting hardware (studs and nuts)  So remove and replate 

- Front shock upper bolts would not be painted. You have red bolts it appears with blue washers on the passenger side. Hardware id different from passenger side to driver's side   So remove, find correct parts and replate if needed. 

- Spring cover hardware in the engine compartment would not have black paint on the bolts or nuts.  So remove and replate 

- Fender bolts would not be painted body color or have the remains of such. So remove and replate 

- Engine, air cleaner, snorkel and likely other parts need to be repainted.

- Find the correct PS pump dipstick

- While your at it coat the exhaust manifolds (since your going to paint them anyway) with a product that looks closer to bare steel and not silver.

- Carburetor needs to be restored. Currently it appears to have been rattle canned black
 
- Carburetor spacer needs to be stripped and partially painted during the engine repaint process

- Replace all the engine compartment stickers and decals

- Snorkel retaining bolts appear to be incorrect for the application

- Coil sticker (originally ink stamped) was not placed in the typical location

- Coil appears to be an aftermarket

- Need to check the distributor numbers. Appears that it may not be correct for the car. If it checks out restore it. It has blue overspray and the finish appears to be old and aged

- Find a NOS or find and restore the correct dual vacuum style advance unit for your distributor

- Redo the distributor vacuum advance and retard system. Correct hoses, PVS (as you mentioned)

- Your likely not going to be able to find the correct looking air cleaner to charcoal canister hose :(

- Have no idea of what your using for a fan and would guess the original/correct radiator shroud is not attached to the radiator  currently

- Screws attached to the inner fenders/aprons should not have paint on them so remove paint and replate
Includes but not limited to starter solenoid and voltage regulator rain guard. Check washer bottle also

- Remove loose electrical tape. Clean spray paint off of wire loom and wire ends
 
- Find and purchase a correct alternator for the car

- Plate/color the alternator spacer correctly

- Install the missing wire loom plastic retainers/loops

- Remove the zip ties.

- Not certain why the extra wires at the starter solenoid connections but have plenty of other things to address first

- Need correct battery mounting hardware.

- Remove the paint from the upper radiator hose visible in the picture.

- Remove the black spray paint from the radiator overflow hose.

- Clean and restore power steering mount

- Clean and restore fuel line


Will stop there for now.

So you have a few weekend worth (or more) of cleaning and labor as well as a fair investment in finding correct parts and materials
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

jperls

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Re: Stock 302 Dearborn engine
« Reply #7 on: July 03, 2020, 07:58:45 PM »
Well not to be unkind with a response  would offer that you asked so the following is just that, an attempt to help with at least some things you could do.

- Of course with the radiator you have most looking to view a restored car will quickly turn away sine this so predominate and visible being a different design and unpainted

- Just starting at the back of the picture you provided which does not provide allot of depth. The firewall and cowl black paint does not match the inner fender panels

- Items installed/attached to the firewall and visible cowl panel (unibody above the firewall to cowl pinch welded) are all painted. Originally nothing except for the PB booster and master cylinder. Its finish likely varied from the firewall black and not painted once installed. The picture thread I suggested would provide you a idea of what they looked like. This would include but not limited to:

rubber plugs
electrical wiring
electrical screws
wiper motor mounting hardware
shock tower support bracket bolts and nuts
though its not visible would guess that the plastic vacuum manifold attached to the firewall is not unpainted nor has a instruction sticker on it in good condition

- Missing the retaining "T" bracket installed on the wiper motor wiring at the drivers side firewall to cowl pinch weld

- Hood hinges and springs should be P&O  not painted. Hardware was not painted.  So remove and replate 

- Rear front wheel well splash shield retaining screw head would not be painted.  So remove and replate 

- Shock tower support brackets would have been slop gray as described in other threads

- Front shock upper mounts (bee hives) were originally P&O and not rattle canned black nor was the mounting hardware (studs and nuts)  So remove and replate 

- Front shock upper bolts would not be painted. You have red bolts it appears with blue washers on the passenger side. Hardware id different from passenger side to driver's side   So remove, find correct parts and replate if needed. 

- Spring cover hardware in the engine compartment would not have black paint on the bolts or nuts.  So remove and replate 

- Fender bolts would not be painted body color or have the remains of such. So remove and replate 

- Engine, air cleaner, snorkel and likely other parts need to be repainted.

- Find the correct PS pump dipstick

- While your at it coat the exhaust manifolds (since your going to paint them anyway) with a product that looks closer to bare steel and not silver.

- Carburetor needs to be restored. Currently it appears to have been rattle canned black
 
- Carburetor spacer needs to be stripped and partially painted during the engine repaint process

- Replace all the engine compartment stickers and decals

- Snorkel retaining bolts appear to be incorrect for the application

- Coil sticker (originally ink stamped) was not placed in the typical location

- Coil appears to be an aftermarket

- Need to check the distributor numbers. Appears that it may not be correct for the car. If it checks out restore it. It has blue overspray and the finish appears to be old and aged

- Find a NOS or find and restore the correct dual vacuum style advance unit for your distributor

- Redo the distributor vacuum advance and retard system. Correct hoses, PVS (as you mentioned)

- Your likely not going to be able to find the correct looking air cleaner to charcoal canister hose :(

- Have no idea of what your using for a fan and would guess the original/correct radiator shroud is not attached to the radiator  currently

- Screws attached to the inner fenders/aprons should not have paint on them so remove paint and replate
Includes but not limited to starter solenoid and voltage regulator rain guard. Check washer bottle also

- Remove loose electrical tape. Clean spray paint off of wire loom and wire ends
 
- Find and purchase a correct alternator for the car

- Plate/color the alternator spacer correctly

- Install the missing wire loom plastic retainers/loops

- Remove the zip ties.

- Not certain why the extra wires at the starter solenoid connections but have plenty of other things to address first

- Need correct battery mounting hardware.

- Remove the paint from the upper radiator hose visible in the picture.

- Remove the black spray paint from the radiator overflow hose.

- Clean and restore power steering mount

- Clean and restore fuel line


Will stop there for now.

So you have a few weekend worth (or more) of cleaning and labor as well as a fair investment in finding correct parts and materials

Thank you. A couple of things

1. Carburetor and carburetor plate are not painted...that is the shadow of the air cleaner...

2. Firewall and cowl paint do match...lighting of picture makes it look like it does not

3. Snorkel retaining bolts were retained from original snorkel

4.Just bought a NOS evap charcoal canister hose off of E-bay. Will only use for shows (paid a bit of money...but worth it).

5. Screws attached to inner fender aprons are not painted...just full of 50 years of oil vapors and grease...will clean.

6. Using original fan...just no fan shroud...please see original post regarding eventual use of original radiator and fan shroud.

7. Review original post regarding distributor.

8. You are correct coil is aftermarket...looking to eventually get stamped coil from deadnutson.com

9. PS dipstick is correct...it came with car...have seen this type of dipstick on some Boss 302 models.

Offline jperls

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Re: Stock 302 Dearborn engine
« Reply #8 on: July 10, 2020, 02:32:57 AM »
The extra wires at the starter solenoid relate to the operation of the convertible top...known as the fuseable link (see https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/69ptoplink.html for description and details).
1970 mustang convertible, F-code 302 2v engine, Dearborn built 12/31/69

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Stock 302 Dearborn engine
« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2020, 05:14:34 AM »
Welcome back.

The extra wires at the starter solenoid relate to the operation of the convertible top...known as the fuseable link (see https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/69ptoplink.html for description and details).

Realized (that your car was a convertible) that after I saw your posts the other sites. Have own a couple of power top 70 convertibles also. Wish I still owned the last one I owned but can't keep every car. 

As for a couple of your earlier points many here have learned that just because something came that way on the car when you bought it does not always equal that the item or detail is original to the car. Good luck with what ever path you choose with the car.
« Last Edit: July 10, 2020, 05:36:46 AM by J_Speegle »
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)