Topic: 1967 Hood Hinges

[kkupec02]

My GT500 has loose hinges that move from side to side and springs that won't hold the hood all the way up. They seem to be original hinges. Is there a place that will re rivet hinges or should I just go repro? Also, is there a best method for replacing springs? My hood is half metal/half fiberglass so I will need the regular heavy duty springs. Thanks.   

[kkupec02]

I see on vintage mustang forum that you can hammer the x in the rivet in a vise and possibly tighten it up.

[67gta289]

I’ve cinched up on the rivets using a press, which is slow and controlled.  Worked out well.  I would not use a hammer because it is violent in comparison.   

Aren’t the springs unique to the Shelby due to lighter hood weight?  Per your post that might only be the later full fiberglass ones

[Bob Gaines]

I’ve cinched up on the rivets using a press, which is slow and controlled.  Worked out well.  I would not use a hammer because it is violent in comparison.   

Aren’t the springs unique to the Shelby due to lighter hood weight?  Per your post that might only be the later full fiberglass ones

+1 using a press.  67 Shelby's used regular Mustang springs on early fiberglass hoods with the steel inner structure and long smaller diameter springs for the all fiberglass hoods.

[Bossbill]

Shelby vs. stock.

[kkupec02]

Thanks. Given the picture of the spring comparison, it looks like I already have the light weight springs even though I should have had the regular ones initially with the metal framed fiberglass. Maybe that is why it won't stay up. A picture of my set up is here. Car #817, built 1/26/67.

[Bossbill]

When I refinished my springs I decided, based on input here, to give it a "dunked in oil heat treatment" look. Like front coil and leaf springs. Just a choice.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks. Given the picture of the spring comparison, it looks like I already have the light weight springs even though I should have had the regular ones initially with the metal framed fiberglass. Maybe that is why it won't stay up. A picture of my set up is here. Car #817, built 1/26/67.

Yep ,wrong ones for steel inner structure hood. How many heads got bumps from it coming down in a slight breeze? FYI The regular springs are not a problem with flexing the hood like they are on all fiberglass hoods.

[Bob Gaines]

When I refinished my springs I decided, based on input here, to give it a "dunked in oil heat treatment" look. Like front coil and leaf springs. Just a choice.

Life is abut choices. As long as the finish looks the original way then all is good if going for the historical look . I hope that some day I can confirm it has the historical look.

[kkupec02]

I think that the hinges are original, so I hope to tighten the rivet and use them as is. The back of the hood sits a little high with the hinges mounted all of the way down, so I may have to elongate the holes in the hinges a little to move the back down maybe 1/4". I will have to buy repro springs and stretch them, then remove the gloss black paint in all the nooks and crannies. I have then heard people recommend Eastwood bare steel replication spray paint. I will have to research that further. Thanks again for all.

[J_Speegle]

................. I have then heard people recommend Eastwood bare steel replication spray paint. I will have to research that further. Thanks again for all.

Suggest you read the many threads here on the site of the pitfalls associated with "natural" paints and then make a choice. Especially on ones where the assembly is jointed or moves during operation. This wort of things means that surfaces often rub and rubbing means that the paints will scrape or rub off leaving unpainted areas that will look different and invite rust. For some that is ok and they just touch it up again and are happy

[ruppstang]

I think that the hinges are original, so I hope to tighten the rivet and use them as is. The back of the hood sits a little high with the hinges mounted all of the way down, so I may have to elongate the holes in the hinges a little to move the back down maybe 1/4". I will have to buy repro springs and stretch them, then remove the gloss black paint in all the nooks and crannies. I have then heard people recommend Eastwood bare steel replication spray paint. I will have to research that further. Thanks again for all.

You may find when you tighten the rivets and the hinge is properly aligned it will close properly. Or possibly it is not adjusted correctly. IMHO I would not elongate the holes!

[J_Speegle]

Yes adjusting hood hinges is a fairly common complaint/task. There are a couple of threads on the subject

The process can be counter intuitive where down (on one point of the hinge at the engine compartment panel) sometimes results in the hood moving up and the other way around

[67gta289]

+1 counterintuitive is really true on this adjustment