Topic: Thermostatic Choke Inlet Tube Adapter Removal

[196667Bob]

After searching to no avail, I am looking for any input on removal of an existing, over 50 year old, well rusted adapter from the exhaust manifold.

Does anyone have any experience as to what works best, and/or what doesn't ?

Thanks,

Bob

[J_Speegle]

Always ugly task. Don't know if one technique or tool works better than another. Allot depends on how badly rusted or fused to one another they are.

Have used penetrating oil, heat, rust dip, collapsing the tube and digging it out as well as drilling it out.   Also easy-outs also.
Sorry can't provide a magic bullet but maybe someone else will provide one.

[jwc66k]

After searching to no avail, I am looking for any input on removal of an existing, over 50 year old, well rusted adapter from the exhaust manifold.
Does anyone have any experience as to what works best, and/or what doesn't ?

First, small block?
If so, do you have the new tubes?
Measure the diameter of the new tube that goes in the manifold. I used a number 1 drill, 0.228 dia, to drill out the old (broken off sometimes) tube, a 1/4 inch bit to deepen the hole a bit, say 1/4 inch and "forced" the new one in deeper. There's a muffler repair material called "Dum-Dum" (I think that's the name, or any other stuff) that can be used to build up the hole if it's too big.
I also recommend you get the lower kit too. A cutting torch (to heat HOT, not cut), a vice (to hold the manifold for the vice grip step) and a pair of vice grips gets those out every time I've tried.
Jim
Did I mention a beer?

[196667Bob]

Jeff and Jim : Thanks for both of your input.

Jim, while my specific case at the moment, applies to my 289 in my '67, I felt that this would be appropriate for any exhaust manifold that has an inlet tube adapter pressed in (my 1966 being my next).
As for the broken off upper tube, last summer I was able to successfully remove the remnants without enlarging the existing hole.
My subject question is specifically geared to the lower tube adapter. For similar "challenges" in the past, I have first liberally doused the "culprit" (bolt, press in fitting, drive rivet, etc.) with penetrating oil, heated the surrounding area with acetylene torch, tapped around the area, and removed with the vise grips which had been clamped around the "culprit".
I was just curious for this particular "culprit" if there was something that had been proven to be a better solution.

If not, I'll rely on the "old ways" (Falstaff).

Thanks again,

Bob

[Bossbill]

If the "culprit" is  hollow find a bolt, drift or any other round object that fits tightly in the tube.
This way the tube will not collapse when you get the vice grips on it.

This works real well for pulling the water tubes out of the water pump. Takes a big bolt!

[196667Bob]

Bill : Yes, your method works well in some cases, but as you can see in the attached pictures (first of the existing ; next two of NOS one), unfortunately cannot be used in this case.

Bob

[67gta289]

When I took my engine block in for machining, which I stripped down beforehand, I mentioned that I could not get some of the threaded plugs out.  The machinist heated the area up with a torch, nice and hot, and whipped out a candle, then proceeded to have wax melt around the joint.  Then we talked for about 10 minutes, and he removed them with about 30 ft lbs of torque.  He went on to wax eloquently about how it is his favorite method.

What if you drill through the head so that you can insert a solid rod through it, apply heat, and penetrating oil (or wax), put the manifold in a vice, and then use a slide hammer that is makeshift adapted to the rod?  Heat and impact may pop it free.

[Deuce]

After searching to no avail, I am looking for any input on removal of an existing, over 50 year old, well rusted adapter from the exhaust manifold.

A good write-up:  https://www.428cobrajet.org/sites/default/files/choke-stove-rebuild.pdf

Found in this 2010 CMF thread:  Topic: Rebuilding choke Stove / http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=552.msg2801#msg2801

[jwc66k]

but as you can see in the attached pictures (first of the existing ; next two of NOS one), unfortunately cannot be used in this case.

Yeah, that's the one (see the number 5 reply for the pictures). A lot of heat from a torch does the trick.
Jim

[196667Bob]

John : Good idea with using the slide hammer in some way ; I have done something similar in the past, making a "custom attachment for it.

Deuce : Great article from the 428 Cobra Jet site. Another option.

Jim : I'll try the heat and vice grips first, if that doesn't do it, the heat and slide hammer ; and as a last resort, the cold chisel.

Thank you all for your input. Now the only remaining question is, when can I do it ? I can't remember for sure if I brought my exhaust manifolds back from Colorado last Fall, or if they are still there. Time to check my "traveling boxes".

Bob

[196667Bob]

Now that we have covered Processes and Procedures of this topic, I now have a "Product" question.

Does anyone have an original NOS Thermostatic Choke Control Insert (C2OZ-9A714-A), or an original insert that was removed intact, that you could measure the OD an length ?

The reason I am asking this is that I was unable to find an original C2OZ insert, but was able to find an NOS part that replaced  it (D3TZ-9A714-A). As "replacements" will work, but may not be "exactly" like the original, I am curious if this a "direct replacement", or if I will need to modify its length.

Thanks for any help in this matter.After some relevant input, I will Post my findings here.

Bob