Topic: Leaf Springs

[sparky65]

My original leaf springs were so bad that it wasnt worth even saving the bottom leaf.  So I just bought Eaton springs.  Now how do I make them look close.  I think i will strip the black paint from the leafs and paint with cast blast.  What about the metal clamps that go around the leafs?

[CharlesTurner]

It's too bad that Eaton won't give folks the option of getting them w/out paint.  I would suggest you strip the paint (won't be easy) and apply gun bluing to the springs.  The clamps should be natural stamped steel (brighter than the leaves.)

[Sunlitgold68]

Jeff Speegle offered some nice restoration tips for me, If you decide to not use gun bluing, also you can buy the clamps from VA Mustang, they are made by AMK and look pretty nice.

[T Lea]

It's too bad that Eaton won't give folks the option of getting them w/out paint. 

Actually they do but its ridiculous how its done and what they charge. Rather than build a set and eliminate the last step, painting, they pull a set out of inventory and shot peen them. It costs something like $150 extra and I still had to take them apart to get the stuff that the blasting didn't remove where the paint got between the springs. It would seem not that difficult to order a set and not paint them. In theory it should even cost less.

[Bob Gaines]

My original leaf springs were so bad that it wasnt worth even saving the bottom leaf.  So I just bought Eaton springs.  Now how do I make them look close.  I think i will strip the black paint from the leafs and paint with cast blast.  What about the metal clamps that go around the leafs?

If you are going to paint them don't use the cast blast but use the Eastwood spray paint Zinc Phosphate . It looks substantially closer to the dark heat treated bare metal of the leafs then the cast iron paint. It is usually too dark for most zinc phosphate finish parts on the car but looks real close in the case of the heat treated rear leafs .Don't forget to add the bare Metal leaf straps fro AMK as mentioned for a new look .You will want to put some clear coat on the metal straps or they will flash rust very soon .  I even put a waxy Metal preservative (Boe Shield but there are many) over the clear coat for extra protection. Bob

[J_Speegle]

As I've recommended before (for the rattle can restorations)

1- disassembly the springs

2- clean and strip each leaf

3- apply a thin, full even coat (less paint allows the metal texture to remain visible)

3- apply a light thin coat (somewhat dry) of interior - Dark Charcoal Metallic

4- add you paint marks if your going that route

5- add a thin, somewhat dry, but full coat of satin clear to simulate the oil coat

6- reassembly with nice bare steel (not treated as above) clamps (that are waxed, oiled or cleared

7- reinstall


Should do and post another article - this time this site- on this in the near future to help those that choose this method



Here is a look at the tone this process produces

[sparky65]

6- reassembly with nice bare steel (not treated as above) clamps (that are waxed, oiled or cleared

How are those clamps installed?  It looks like they are pressed with a special tool.

[J_Speegle]

The metal is not that stiff but you have to be careful not to break the little "tang" especially if your reusing originals.  I use a couple of C clamps with tapped ends (so to not scratch or damage the clamps) to hold the clamp in place (one horizontally) and one to hold the end with the hole in place while I work my magic on the one that needs to be bent over


Remember the rubber pad ;(

[Bob Gaines]

The metal is not that stiff but you have to be careful not to break the little "tang" especially if your reusing originals.  I use a couple of C clamps with tapped ends (so to not scratch or damage the clamps) to hold the clamp in place (one horizontally) and one to hold the end with the hole in place while I work my magic on the one that needs to be bent over


Remember the rubber pad ;(

They are fun   . You might save one out of two if reusing the originals because the tang breaks off as Jeff cautioned. The metal of the tang gets fatigued from bending it back and forth during the removal /installation process. Spring for some new AMK repro clamps(pun intended) . Bob

[astat1]

The reasoning of Eaton painting their springs is that for some of the rarer stock (vintage mustang) may sit for enough time allowing them to rust. I don't see any significant problem removing the paint with any paint remover and some steel wool. Of course the springs would need to be disassembled which would have to done anyways to prep them for show (either blueing or painting) each individually. I bought a set for my 69 GT500 and began to remove the paint which came off easily. I stopped after deciding they looked too different than my originals, repainted and sent back. I initially asked for unpainted and was told "no problem" but received them painted along with the reasoning mentioned above. I did both on mine, blueing and painting with Eastwood Phoshate paint and was happy with the result. There was a discussion on VMF regarding  the clamps with round holes often seen on some 68/69 Shelby's as opposed to the AMK square "hole" pieces sold. You can buy the blank clamps  from Eaton and make your own with the round holes if so desired. The clamp on the bottom is made from the blank and the diagram for the blank and how to cut your own is on the VMF site.  This was my first attempt so those with more metal working experience will have better results.

[Bob Gaines]

The only problem I see in your case is that the Shelby leaf springs are a different length (longer by a couple of inches each  ) on all but the eyelet main leaf.  It is not just the bottom leaf. I hope you didn't throw them away. Not that it is too noticeable but since I study them there is a chance I would pick up on it if I wasn't in a hurry when judging. The spring paint codes that you painted are what you got from the build sheet which is correct for a Mustang spring but not a S9MS spring . The leaf springs all have different paint codes.The paint code on the build sheet is for the C9 Mustang spring . A S9MS spring would have a different paint code. if it wasn't changed on the Ford assemblyline it was changed at AO Smith which photo evidence shows happened at the time the rear valance was added and rear exhaust collector were added. When you think about it this makes sense because it would be hard to work in those areas when installing those parts. The eyelets on the S9MS appear to have been spray painted a white(probably gloss)on the shackle eyelet end which apparently was their ID marking. The markings didn't survive well on the Shelby's(probably painted over cosmoline).  I have seen a few examples now that convince me of their historical significance . The other rub is that some much later built 69/70 Shelby's got the C9 Boss springs. Bob

[Skyway65]

So generally speaking would the rear springs on a San Jose '65 Conv. have the same color paint daubs as a Dearborn '65 Conv?  Or did each plant have their own specific color code system?

[J_Speegle]

So generally speaking would the rear springs on a San Jose '65 Conv. have the same color paint daubs as a Dearborn '65 Conv?  Or did each plant have their own specific color code system?

IMHO the colors would be the same if the cars were both equipped exactly the same way and built at the same time (colors can vary during the production year) 

Even with all things being the same the method of marking can vary between the two (or any) plant based on the use of different vendors - especially between San Jose and the other two plants.

[Skyway65]

I need some advice on the best way to finish my rear springs.  (Jan. ’65 Dearborn Conv.) I have a set of new Eatons from NPD that are now disassembled.  I will be replacing the lower leafs with originals to keep the numbers accurate.  I currently have one leaf finished using the Eastwood Phosphate paint method and another leaf finished with the gun bluing method.  They both look the same and they both look REALLY nice.  Now the question is, the paint method is a lot quicker and easier so I’d like to complete them that way, BUT I also want the best concours look.  What method has a more authentic look and which will hold up longer for a trailered non-driven car?  Any other thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.   

[J_Speegle]

I need some advice on the best way to finish my rear springs. .......................  What method has a more authentic look and which will hold up longer for a trailered non-driven car?........

One consideration should be that MCA is currently considering changing the concours rules so that the use of any paints to reproduce the factory finishes would receive some deductions if the judges find it.

Something to consider.