Topic: Smog System Installation

[1970 Snake]

I am in the process of painting my engine and then proceeding to the break-in run and dyno tuning and do not want the smog system on the engine for that as it gets in the way for distributor, carb and valve train adjustments. I have a couple of questions regarding the install of the smog system tubing. Once installed and tightened down on the ferrules can the ferrule nuts be loosened off and the ferrules, nuts and tubing system removed and then reinstalled later. Secondly why did Ford put the small short ferrule tubes that project into the exhaust port into the assembly and can they be left out?

[rockhouse66]

If you are only installing the system temporarily so you can paint it on the engine, I think I would leave the ferrules out, install the nuts snugly and just stick the tubes in the nuts.

As far as the long tubes that protrude into the exhaust port, I assume they were positioned for optimum mixing of the air and exhaust gas.  It is common to shorten these tubes so they extend just barely into the port (if at all) and you might want to consider that if performance is one of your goals.

[1970 Snake]

Yes I would like to paint the system complete but NOT on the motor and then install later. I have two sets of ferrule nuts on set like in the picture with the ferrules loose and one set with them on the nut not loose.
I was really wanting to know if I tighten down the ferrule nuts if they will lock the ferrules but still let me loosen the nuts for tubing removal and reinstall. Yes performance is one of my goals so was thinking of leaving those short tubes out completely as the ferrules have the same taper and would tighten up right at the exhaust port chamber. Thanks for the input, if anyone else has some comments please advise thanks again.

[rockhouse66]

Typically the ferrules come out with the tubes on the ones I have had.  So I would say yes they will come back out after being tightened but the ferrules will come with the tubes, not stay behind in the head.

[Bob Gaines]

Yes I would like to paint the system complete but NOT on the motor and then install later. I have two sets of ferrule nuts on set like in the picture with the ferrules loose and one set with them on the nut not loose.
I was really wanting to know if I tighten down the ferrule nuts if they will lock the ferrules but still let me loosen the nuts for tubing removal and reinstall. Yes performance is one of my goals so was thinking of leaving those short tubes out completely as the ferrules have the same taper and would tighten up right at the exhaust port chamber. Thanks for the input, if anyone else has some comments please advise thanks again.

Yes performance is one of my goals . Then leave the long tubes out ,braze the ends of the tubes closed,screw them down which effectively seals them off but maintains original look. Next take the impeller out of the smog pump so that it doesn't pump but instead free wheels . That way the smog system looks the part but doesn't subtract from performance other then the slight drag from the free wheeling smog pump.You can have your cake and eat it too. That is what many of us have done for decades. We also disconnect the vacuum advance  inside the distributor, block off the inside of the rubber vacuum hoses then put a re curved mechanical advance into the original distributor so it looks stock on the out side but gives noticeable seat in the pants performance gains. We also put in a duel point plate but there are that and other alternatives that give a stock look now. Just in case performance is one of your goals  .

[1970 Snake]

Interesting, thanks Bob, I never had really considered that option as I assume for any judging it would need to work correctly, although my car would probably not do well in judging as I have adjusted many component surface finishes (example powder coating or ceramic coating instead of painting) to deal with occasional driving use and the environment, but have worked very hard to maintain the original factory look, date coding and detailing, correct colour schemes and factory markings.

[J_Speegle]

Interesting, thanks Bob, I never had really considered that option as I assume for any judging it would need to work correctly, although my car would probably not do well in judging as I have adjusted many component surface finishes (example powder coating or ceramic coating instead of painting) to deal with occasional driving use and the environment, but have worked very hard to maintain the original factory look, date coding and detailing, correct colour schemes and factory markings.

Since cars are not driven or tested during the judging process that would not be a consideration. But any choice comes with some compromise and in turn the results of those choices. IMHO just be honest and happy/content with those and don't try and fool yourself into making it something other than it is - They are your choices

[1970 Snake]

BTW I have rebuilt my original distributor left the heavier factory spring and installed one Mr. Gasket spring on the mechanical advance, also installed an NOS vacuum advance and Pertronix pointless trigger. Can you tell me where you guys usually set you all-in advance (ie: 3000 RPM or less??) I believe factory was over 4000 RPM.

[1970 Snake]

Thanks Jeff, yes I believe we all have our own ideas on how we want to finish our cars and I am no different. I really like this forum for understanding what others have considered and done, what is correct and not and what works and does not. Although many friends have said I am building a trailer queen, I want to drive my car, I have had it for over 30 years, but have only started the restoration in the last 10 and originally had not planned on going down a concours type path but once you start where do you stop, the more research I have done on my car the more interesting it has become. I am very happy with my car and how I am restoring it and hope others will see it the way I do when completed.

[1970 Snake]

Another question, did Ford ever build the smog check valves for the CJ's that did not have the Fomoco stamping??
I bought these many years ago on ebay and they came in the original Ford boxes, which conveniently had the part number lids removed and now am thinking they may be repro's.

[Bob Gaines]

Interesting, thanks Bob, I never had really considered that option as I assume for any judging it would need to work correctly, although my car would probably not do well in judging as I have adjusted many component surface finishes (example powder coating or ceramic coating instead of painting) to deal with occasional driving use and the environment, but have worked very hard to maintain the original factory look, date coding and detailing, correct colour schemes and factory markings.

Nothing about what I described would make the smog system appear as if it didn't work properly. As Jeff mentioned a operational test on the stock functionality of a smog system is not even a consideration for the foreseeable future in regards to concours venues.  Testing would be very problematic. Just some options so that you can make a informed decision that makes the best sense to you. The check valves that do not have the FOMOCO trademark are reproduction so that there is no trademark infringement lawsuit brought against the maker.

[1970 Snake]

Thanks Bob as I suspected, I have been collecting used and NOS parts for my car over the 30 years I have owned it and just packed them away until I needed them, and now in the last year I have found several pieces that where supposed to be NOS but where actually repro's put in the original boxes and advertise as original NOS. In my defense many years ago when I purchased some of these parts not a lot of good part data was available for reference, where now its everywhere. I guess you just park them on a shelf and sell them to someone who does not care. Just out of curiousity how does judging view these check valves if used on the engine?

Regarding the recurve all in advance RPM number do you by chance have that?

[J_Speegle]

.............................Just out of curiousity how does judging view these check valves if used on the engine?

Depends on the class and the judges. Some will take the non-visible markings as being hidden by a thick coat of blue engine paint where others may look for the detail - again depending on class, organization and so on.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Bob as I suspected, I have been collecting used and NOS parts for my car over the 30 years I have owned it and just packed them away until I needed them, and now in the last year I have found several pieces that where supposed to be NOS but where actually repro's put in the original boxes and advertise as original NOS. In my defense many years ago when I purchased some of these parts not a lot of good part data was available for reference, where now its everywhere. I guess you just park them on a shelf and sell them to someone who does not care. Just out of curiousity how does judging view these check valves if used on the engine?

Regarding the recurve all in advance RPM number do you by chance have that?

If the no trademark check valve is new looking and looks the same as the genuine other then the trademark it most likely would be OK to use in all but the hardest class of concours.. The trademark missing may warrant a mention in the MCA driven and trailered class but not typically a deduction. In thoroughbred it would be a deduction given it should have the trademark and a repro part is not allowed in that class .I looked the specs up in the Ford Muscle Parts catalog. I think Mustangtek has a copy online.