Topic: Upper / Lower Control Arms: Buy new or restore originals?

[evantugby]

Experts,
Hoping to get some guidance.  I'm doing as good of a concours-level restoration on a 66 fastback k-code as my budget allows.   

Question 1:  Were all upper & lower control arms the same for C, A, and K-codes?

Question 2:  Is it worth paying big money ($1500-$2000) to have someone restore my upper & lower control arms or would you just replacing them with look-a-likes found here:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-upper-control-arm-assembly-premium-black-gray-1965-1966/p/UCA3/

https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-lower-control-arm-assembly-premium-black-gray-1965-1966/p/LCA71/

Note:  Pictures are for your determination on authenticity and worthiness of restoring.  My lower control arm knuckles appear original with pressed in bolts.  However my upper control arm knuckle is using bolts. 

Thanks for the guidance!

Evan

[J_Speegle]

Question 1:  Were all upper & lower control arms the same for C, A, and K-codes?

And 6 cylinders also

Question 2:  Is it worth paying big money ($1500-$2000) to have someone restore my upper & lower control arms or would you just replacing them with look-a-likes found here:

It's a choice between cost and how close to original you want to be. Just like many other parts on the car.

It's like cutting corners or lower your expectations when building a house or buying  a new car. Or in racing how fast do you want to go. At the beginning you can gain allot of time for a few thousand dollars. Once your car is really quick and competitive then a tenth of a second might mean tens of thousands of dollars

If your concerned about judging it can be  about what the cost is per point you could lose. Make too many choices and lower the quality/originality then your going to end up getting a lesser and correctly so award.  Make these choices where they are too easy to see you'll have more "car show experts" pointing them out when you show the car.

It's all about choices and no one can make them for you. Once you make them accept them for what they are.

[CharlesTurner]

I'd recommend restoring originals, especially on a part that would be rather difficult to swap out and risk damaging paint or other areas later.

[evantugby]

Thanks for your feedback, gentlemen. 

Charles/Jim--Have you restored control arms before?  If so, did you drill out the waffle pattern rivots and replace with nuts/bolts?

Follow-up question:  Did the upper control arms get half painted black like in photo 1 or in photo 2? 

[Anghelrestorations]

This should answer alot of your questions:

http://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/5/1/2/35122002/65_to_73_suspension_guide_v2.0a.pdf

[bluemax]

Question 2:  Is it worth paying big money ($1500-$2000) to have someone restore my upper & lower control arms or would you just replacing them with look-a-likes found here:

I am currently struggling with the same question.

It appears that your lower control arms are worn from the end links, not sure if those can be restored.

When I removed the UCA shaft on my original arms I noticed that the threads were gaulded/worn and I wonder if those too can be repaired or reused.

[evantugby]

This should answer alot of your questions:

http://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/5/1/2/35122002/65_to_73_suspension_guide_v2.0a.pdf

excellent article on identification of these components. Helped out a lot!  Thank you. I sent you a PM. 

[CharlesTurner]

Charles/Jim--Have you restored control arms before?  If so, did you drill out the waffle pattern rivots and replace with nuts/bolts?

They wouldn't be correct with nuts/bolts.  Marcus and a couple others can do the rivets correctly.  Having the correct ball joints/boots is another matter.  The correct C4 ones are getting expensive these days as there is no correct reproduction.  Some have used Moog ball joints with reproduction C7 boots.  Still not correct, but may have to compromise depending on what the final goal and budget are.

[evantugby]

Charles,
I know drilling out my rivots and replacing with nuts/bolts isn't correct but that is where I will compromise because I would like to restore a set on my own.  Marcus does great work but my budget doesn't allow me to use his services for this particular item...at least I'm not ready to eat that bill yet. 

I did find "K" stamped into each of my UCAs.  I read Marcus Anghel's PDF on UCAs and he mentioned "not all stampings on UCAs fall into a date code format" and provided a couple pictures in the PDF of stampings like "5CC", "22", "JD", "64".  Mine simple has "K".  Check out the picture.  Anyone have any theory as to what these stamps mean?

[67gta289]

If you have a small matching shop in your town you can do all the work and have them press the rivets in.  Ask around you might just find someone willing to tinker with it

[carlite65]

most shops won't 'tinker with it' due to a liability issue.

[67gta289]

A couple near me will and do.  If you don’t ask they won’t tell

[Anghelrestorations]

Well, let us know the names of these shops that are willing to tinker with it.  I have about 10 sets I can send right away.  Im looking forward to hearing about that. 

[67gta289]

I'll check with them this week and report back - a lot of places here are shut down. 

[hughnews1]

i have 66 I6   bot all new  susp   inc new radior  and orig bench seat