Author Topic: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fuel Filler Neck Tube  (Read 1629 times)

Offline Bossbill

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fuel Filler Neck Tube
« Reply #15 on: April 13, 2020, 08:48:39 PM »
Mine had a few small dents.
One trick is to use something like a tire removal iron and solidly mount it in your mondo vice. The tire iron has a smooth arc in both directions on the end. I dress up the arc with a high speed flapper and get it real smooth.
Place the tire iron near the edge of the dent and start lightly tapping around the area.
It's like using a hammer and dolly, but the dolly is the tire iron.

I take apart ball joints to get the ball hidden inside. They make great round anvils.
Weld some large flat stock to the threaded end and it clamps in the vice easily.
Bill
Concours  Actual Ford Build 3/2/67 GT350 01375
Driven      6/6/70 0T02G160xxx Boss 302
Modified   5/18/65 5F09A728xxx Boss 347 Terminator-X 8-Stack
Race        65 2+2 Coupe conversion

Offline WT8095

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  • Dave Z.
Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fuel Filler Neck Tube
« Reply #16 on: September 12, 2020, 11:36:14 AM »
`From the factory it had a finish very similar to the gas tank but with a higher lead content I believe. You could hit it with a gas pump nozzle with no fear of a spark is one theory.
The finish on the filler necks and tanks is known as "terne plate". It's approximately 80% tin, 20% lead, applied via hot dipping. The purpose of the plating is for corrosion protection. The lead was used to lower the cost - it's cheaper than 100% tin. The modern replacement is a tin/nickel combination to eliminate the lead.
Dave Z.

'68 fastback, S-code + C6. Special Paint (Rainbow promotion), DSO 710784. Actual build date 2/7/1968, San Jose.
'69 Cougar convertible, 351W-2V + FMX, Meadowlark Yellow.

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fuel Filler Neck Tube
« Reply #17 on: September 12, 2020, 05:37:51 PM »
The finish on the filler necks and tanks is known as "terne plate". It's approximately 80% tin, 20% lead, applied via hot dipping. The purpose of the plating is for corrosion protection. The lead was used to lower the cost - it's cheaper than 100% tin. The modern replacement is a tin/nickel combination to eliminate the lead.

Don't believe the process was the same on both. If you take a torch to each (don't try on a gas tank with out cutting a section of the metal out) I've found they react very differently. Agree that the tanks were terne plated and they were marked and identified as such on the makers markings
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)