Topic: Starting problem

[Captain Kent]

I am having trouble with my 67 coupe, 6cyl 200ci. Starts but won't run.  This is what I have done.

Starter turns over but engine won't run
jumped across directly from the battery to the coil, car runs. (guessing then that the coil is good)
Checked the short wiring under the hood from connector to coil, its good.
Voltage from ign to coil is low .76 volts.
What voltage should I see at the coil?

I think the resistance is bad, is that just a wire or is the resister inside the plug to the ignition? Please see attached photo.

Kent

[67gtasanjose]

The resistor is a long wire taped into the under dash harness.

[Captain Kent]

The resistor is a long wire taped into the under dash harness.

I am sure that this is my problem.  How can this wire go bad and how do I fix?

[jwc66k]

The voltage should be around 12 V when starting, 9 V while running.
The resistance wire in in a harness that goes from the ignition switch to the connector on the firewall inside the car. It is called a resistance wire, is pink in color, kind of "lumpy" and is taped in place (so you can't get to it easy). Replacements are available. It can be got to while in the car, but you got to remove a lot of stuff in the way.
Jim   

[carlite65]

he can disconnect at the ignition switch & disconnect the firewall connector under the hood then do his voltage resistance test.

[midlife]

Is this a tach dash car?  If so, it may be that the tach is disconnected at the dash.  The pink resistor wire is the output of the tach and goes to the firewall plug.  Basically, the ignition switch routes the signal through the tach to the coil, but has a pickup from the starter solenoid when cranking the engine.
If it is a tach dash car, jumper the leads on the plug on the underdash harness side and try again.  It should work now.  If it was plugged into the tach, then the tach may be bad.

[67gta289]

If for non tech application as stated it is in the under dash wire harness 14401, from the ignition switch connector (pink wire 16A) to the connector high up under the dash (if I recall correctly) that mates to the 14290 wire harness.  At the 14290 harness is where the pink resistor wire ends, and wire 262 (brown) carries the circuit to the starter relay.

Replacing this is not a simple task. 

I recommend pulling the connector off the ignition switch so you can get clean access to the pink wire.  Disconnect the battery.  Pull the brown wire off the starter relay.  Now with some spare wire (almost any will do), extend either end of the circuit through the door to the opposing end.  Then with a meter measure the resistance.  The ones I have here are reading 1.6 ohms.   I have a 68 harness cut up now and you can have the resistor wire, but again this job is pretty big.  I’ll attach some pics in an hour or two 

Randy please correct me if I’m wrong

[67gta289]

I just noticed this is in the 69-70 area not 67-68, should be moved

[67gta289]

Here is the ignition, starting and charging diagram.  The one in the shop manual is not as good.

[67gta289]

Here are some pictures from a 68 harness.  I think that there is a difference in the ignition switch connector.  Not sure about the other end connector. 

[midlife]

If for non tech application as stated it is in the under dash wire harness 14401, from the ignition switch connector (pink wire 16A) to the connector high up under the dash (if I recall correctly) that mates to the 14290 wire harness.  At the 14290 harness is where the pink resistor wire ends, and wire 262 (brown) carries the circuit to the starter relay.

Replacing this is not a simple task. 

I recommend pulling the connector off the ignition switch so you can get clean access to the pink wire.  Disconnect the battery.  Pull the brown wire off the starter relay.  Now with some spare wire (almost any will do), extend either end of the circuit through the door to the opposing end.  Then with a meter measure the resistance.  The ones I have here are reading 1.6 ohms.   I have a 68 harness cut up now and you can have the resistor wire, but again this job is pretty big.  I’ll attach some pics in an hour or two 

Randy please correct me if I’m wrong

No, you are correct.  In overhauling 700+ underdash harnesses and seeing another 300 or so, I have only encountered one burned pink resistor wire.  It is a very rare thing indeed. 

[Bossbill]

Didn't think you could get a tachometer with a 6 cylinder.

[RoyceP]

The wiring harness is the same regardless of engine cylinder count or size so it can be unplugged.

I would start by measuring voltage at the I terminal on the starter solenoid. Should be 12 volts with the key in "START" position.

Didn't think you could get a tachometer with a 6 cylinder.

[ruppstang]

Didn't think you could get a tachometer with a 6 cylinder.

I looked in my Ford sales information and I found no notes excluding 6 cylinders from the Tach dash option. I have never see one in a 67 68 six though. I have see a rally pack in a 1966 6 cylinder coupe.

[jwc66k]

Special equipment:
- A three foot 16awg jumper wire with alligator clips.
- A remote starter.
Procedure:
- Hook up the remote starter per manufacturer's instructions. That should be one clip to the positive terminal of the battery, the other to the right hand small terminal of the solenoid, the start terminal.
- Hook up one clip of the jumper to the positive terminal of the battery (it's getting crowded), the other to the "BATT" terminal of the coil.
- with key off, press the start button on the remote, give the carburetor some gas.
Car should start. You have eliminated all wiring for the normal running of the car.
And the results are:
Jim