Topic: Stamps -- Getting the biggest bang for your buck

[Bossbill]

I was having stamps made and noticed that a bigger stamp costs little more than a smaller one. This lead me down the path of using all sides of a stamp with a different part number or date on each side of a square or rectangular stamp. This drives the cost of the stamp way down. See example.

Be careful about the direction of the art. When putting the date or part number on the end of something round like a wiper housing with a bump in the middle you need to orient the stamp so the larger part of the stamp hangs over the edge.

Ink only those portions you want to stamp (not the whole square).

[jwc66k]

I like it. Good technique.
Jim

[J_Speegle]

Since I make allot more than the regular person I've been using a somewhat similar practice. I group similar sized (height not width) stamp patterns together in long bars so I might have 3-5 (depending on length of each and the total) in one stamp

My maker charges more for longer ones but its cheaper than purchasing individual ones since they add in the time and effort of cutting them.

I take them home  and using a miter box hand cut them myself then relabel them with what the application is. Have over 300 different ones some keeping them organized can be a challenge.

 Bill wonder what the stamp would have cost if you had designed it where each was in a line and as tall as the tallest of the stamps (the circle).  For some stamps you have to consider access  since some can be tricky to get a hand or a stamp to the location or at least too large can reduce access and choices but I see you've given those things some thoughts by your comments in your post.


Do like your idea - the cost can add up so any little savings (guessing you saved $5-10). Every little bit helps

[Bossbill]

I've seen your stamps, Jeff and they are very nice. That's a nice collection.
I hadn't thought about doing it wide, but good tip!

In the end I ordered 3 stamps with the last being "free" as I could either buy that last stamp or pay for shipping (min order to ship free kind of thing).

[J_Speegle]

I know I'm lucky for having a local place that does an excellent job and over the last 20 or so years have got them trained well

Once they got their latest machines we no longer have to wait for full sheets to be filled and they can often make them within an hour or two.

[1967 eight barrel]

Jeff, are you offering any of them for sale?

[Blue_67_Fastback]

Hallo Bill,
Do you also have a picture for a 67´"autolite" Starter Motor?
Mine is too far gone.. not even sure about the date code. Should be 7C1B!?!
Thanks, enno

[jwc66k]

A word of advice: do not get a part number/ID stamp made with a date code included. Get the date code on a separate stamp. Three reasons: that's the method Ford used, two stamps; your part number/ID stamp is now "universal"; you can use the date code stamp on another part number stamp.
Jim

[jwc66k]

Here's an artwork for the coil part number stamp.
Jim

[Blue_67_Fastback]

A word of advice: do not get a part number/ID stamp made with a date code included. Get the date code on a separate stamp. Three reasons: that's the method Ford used, two stamps; your part number/ID stamp is now "universal"; you can use the date code stamp on another part number stamp.
Jim

Thanks for the advice!
Makes sense...

That´s why the date on my wiper Motor is shifted.
Looks like even for every single digit?

[CharlesTurner]

Agree with Jim about the date codes.  Another option is to use a fine tip paint pen in the correct color to carefully write in a date.  I've done it before with nice results.

[jwc66k]

As for ink, I prefer "1250 Aero" marking ink. It's available in a variety of colors (you will need white and possibly yellow), is epoxy based and won't "wash off". Also get a few ink stamping pads. You can not clean a pad after it was used with epoxy based ink.
Jim
Add silver to the possible selections.

[J_Speegle]

Jeff, are you offering any of them for sale?

PM sent

Hallo Bill,
Do you also have a picture for a 67´"autolite" Starter Motor?
Mine is too far gone.. not even sure about the date code. Should be 7C1B!?!

Agree - your stamp (what is left) is missing allot of the details

If you use the search feature there is at least a couple of threads that discuss the starter ink stamp   Should find some other examples posted there

[J_Speegle]

A word of advice: do not get a part number/ID stamp made with a date code included. Get the date code on a separate stamp. Three reasons: that's the method Ford used, two stamps; your part number/ID stamp is now "universal"; you can use the date code stamp on another part number stamp.
Jim

Would offer a different opinion I've always made a single stamp. Believe that like many of the other stamps the suppliers saved time by doing it that way (with a removable/attachable date code insert) much like date stamps on sheet metal presses. If they were done in two steps the dates would be more often misaligned than the ones I've seen but of course for the reproduction either will do the job if your careful.

Coils are a pain enough to stamp to begin with. Good thing is that originally they had difficulties and the stamping is often smeared or slipped during the process

That´s why the date on my wiper Motor is shifted.
Looks like even for every single digit?

Believe you will find that for that sort of date stamp the old style of handheld "machine" with the movable rubber bands was used - just like the one used around the typical business office of the era. Because the bands were individual bands the letters were not always completely aligned and that produced the affect we often find in the finished products.  When reproducing these you need to be careful since many/most of the original fonts are no longer available so you have to end up redrawing what you need as a drawing rather than using premade fonts

[Bossbill]

The wiper stamp I made had three different font styles as well as slightly different sizes (heights).
The year was one font, day another and month yet another.
And, as Jeff says, not perfectly aligned due to the rubber band style I think they used.
The best example is the "7" which sometimes has a straight back, but more usual is the curved back "7". Mine had both.