Topic: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback Rear Shackles

[bullitt68]

I just picked up these rear shackles and I am wondering If these would be good to use. Did the originals have any markings or part numbers stamped on them for identification. These look similar to original in shape and might be alright if I can get the finish right. Should they be Manganese phosphate or black paint. For some reason I though that the bolts were separate, but these have the blots pressed in to the shackles and of course are zinc plated (no bueno)

[67gta289]

Did you review these threads?  There's some good information in there:

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=17038.msg106864#msg106864
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=19104.msg120524#msg120524

[bullitt68]

Did you review these threads?  There's some good information in there:

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=17038.msg106864#msg106864
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=19104.msg120524#msg120524

Thanks John both great threads. I am not sure when my shackles came from but I will see if I can fins out. Its is interesting that they are clear zinc and both appear to be staggered. Based on the other threads it looks like my car should not have the staggered LH shackle. My car came with the typical gold cad shackles, sway bars, chrome Monte Carlo bar, traction bars etc. The shackles on my car are almost twice as thick as the factory style. I will measure the ones I have and see what the thickness is. I guess in a pinch I could swap the bolts around to make a matched set and phosphate them, they would however be missing the part number. How easy is it to come by a set of good used shackles

[67gta289]

This is one of the items I would buy if I ever see ones (that are not pitted) at swap meets, etc.  They are not common at all in my neck of the woods, far from the west coast.  I don't see them eBay either.  You'll probably need someone that was wise enough to collect them to be willing to part with a set. 

[bullitt68]

This is one of the items I would buy if I ever see ones (that are not pitted) at swap meets, etc.  They are not common at all in my neck of the woods, far from the west coast.  I don't see them eBay either.  You'll probably need someone that was wise enough to collect them to be willing to part with a set.

Of course. It seems that all of the parts I am looking for are fairly hard to come by. Not sure how so many guys seems to have so many original parts. It seems like my car had all of the major components replaced at some point with various grades of service replacement parts

[67gta289]

A lot of these tend to be bare metal from the factory which leads in most cases to rust and pitting.   Many also have joints or bushings that wear out.   Some of the Ford aftermarket (upper control arms) were functional but quite different.  Put all of this together and, as they say, it is what it is.  Patience and/or dollars are usually part of the solution.

[bullitt68]

A lot of these tend to be bare metal from the factory which leads in most cases to rust and pitting.   Many also have joints or bushings that wear out.   Some of the Ford aftermarket (upper control arms) were functional but quite different.  Put all of this together and, as they say, it is what it is.  Patience and/or dollars are usually part of the solution.

Agreed. I have been picking up some used upper control arms for cheap and by the time I media blast in most cases they are too pitted to use. What is interesting is that most of the NOS upper control arms I have seen are the 3 rivet design I have in my car and mine are perfect. Same applies to original leaf springs. I just picked up another pair today but I need to media blast them and I suspect that they may be pitted as well, so I may just end ups putting together one good pair out of a few sets. Who knows I may run out of patience and money and just use some of the parts that I have that I already restored that look correct, but are just missing the all critical part numbers and right date codes. Up to this point I have ben trying my best to find suitable parts, but the process and time requires a major commitment indeed

[Bob Gaines]

I just picked up these rear shackles and I am wondering If these would be good to use. Did the originals have any markings or part numbers stamped on them for identification. These look similar to original in shape and might be alright if I can get the finish right. Should they be Manganese phosphate or black paint. For some reason I though that the bolts were separate, but these have the blots pressed in to the shackles and of course are zinc plated (no bueno)

Those shackles are not correct for your car. 68 did not use the staggered shackle like 65,66,and 67 duel exhaust cars. The shackles were bare steel from the factory . Are the ones in the picture chrome plated?

[J_Speegle]

............ Should they be Manganese phosphate or black paint. For some reason I though that the bolts were separate, but these have the blots pressed in to the shackles and of course are zinc plated (no bueno)

Yes these appear to have been bright zinc plated. Might need to soak these for a long time to remove the coating rather than blasting them and adding texture but your choice. As shown in a couple of threads and in an article on natural finishes you may choose to darken the studs to reproduce the heat treated metal and this will provide a contrast (of the end of the stud) from the sides when compared to the natural look of the metal for the shackles

[Coralsnake]

Muratic acid sold in hardware stores will take that bright finish of in 10 seconds

[bullitt68]

Yes these appear to have been bright zinc plated. Might need to soak these for a long time to remove the coating rather than blasting them and adding texture but your choice. As shown in a couple of threads and in an article on natural finishes you may choose to darken the studs to reproduce the heat treated metal and this will provide a contrast (of the end of the stud) from the sides when compared to the natural look of the metal for the shackles

Hi Jeff looks like I read this after I already media blasted the shackles and then vapour blasted them. I will move one of the bolt/studs over to the other position so that I have the non offset shackles and then will phosphate. Them. I guess that I could also stamp the part number in them or is that frowned upon. I will update the thread with the final product once I finish the project. Thanks for the help and advice as always

FYI these are Scott Drake shackles

[jwc66k]

I will move one of the bolt/studs over to the other position so that I have the non offset shackles and then will phosphate.

I tried that and it was not possible due to the differences in the stud hole and mounting hole sizes. You will also wind up with an unusable flat plate.

Them. I guess that I could also stamp the part number in them or is that frowned upon.

The only part number I've found is on the flat plate, "C6DA".
Jim

[Bob Gaines]

Hi Jeff looks like I read this after I already media blasted the shackles and then vapour blasted them. I will move one of the bolt/studs over to the other position so that I have the non offset shackles and then will phosphate. Them. I guess that I could also stamp the part number in them or is that frowned upon. I will update the thread with the final product once I finish the project. Thanks for the help and advice as always

FYI these are Scott Drake shackles

If you try to move the pins then the hole will be too big on the side that the pin was removed from . The hole needs to be smaller . You can always weld the hole up and redrill it but that will look funky. Starting out with another more correct set would probably be best..

[Bob Gaines]

I tried that and it was not possible due to the differences in the stud hole and mounting hole sizes. You will also wind up with an unusable flat plate.The only part number I've found is on the flat plate, "C6DA".
Jim

Correct no engineering numbers on the shackles . I think that the C6DA was eliminated on the flat plate for 68/69 Mustang shackles. 

[bullitt68]

Correct no engineering numbers on the shackles . I think that the C6DA was eliminated on the flat plate for 68/69 Mustang shackles.

Flat plates for 68/69 Mustangs? Am I missing something?