Author Topic: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration  (Read 5026 times)

Offline RoyceP

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #30 on: December 01, 2019, 04:25:08 PM »
It goes where the yellow arrow is pointing:


on the ad pic i do not see a hole for the fitting/plug.......am i blind today??
1968 W code 427 Cougar XR-7 GTE Feb 23 Dearborn C6 / 3.50 open
1968 R code 428CJ Cougar XR-7 May 13 Dearborn C6 / 3.91 T - Lock

Offline bullitt68

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #31 on: December 01, 2019, 06:30:35 PM »
on the ad pic i do not see a hole for the fitting/plug.......am i blind today??

I didn't see anything either!
Mike
1968 Mustang Fastback GT 390 Raven Black, 4 speed
8R02S162374, San Jose, June 5, 1968

Offline RoyceP

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #32 on: December 01, 2019, 07:00:48 PM »
The single picture in the advertisement shows the top side which is not the side with the grease fitting. Read the text of the advertisement, it clearly states that it is greasable and that the grease fitting is included.


I didn't see anything either!
1968 W code 427 Cougar XR-7 GTE Feb 23 Dearborn C6 / 3.50 open
1968 R code 428CJ Cougar XR-7 May 13 Dearborn C6 / 3.91 T - Lock

Offline Bossbill

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #33 on: December 01, 2019, 08:51:06 PM »
A view of Moog BJ showing zerk.
Bill
Concours  Actual Ford Build 3/2/67 GT350 01375
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Offline bullitt68

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #34 on: February 25, 2020, 03:49:01 AM »
Just curious if anyone has welded the jacking tabs on their lower control arms. I found a set of jacking tabs. My lower control arms are moog units I think and they look pretty close to original other than the part number and the missing sway bar hole washer from what I can tell. If I find a pair of good originals I will swap them out. Otherwise I have these as a back up. Question is, should I drill holes in the tabs for welding them to the control arms or weld the side of the tabs. I have been looking for a good set of upper and lower control arms to replace mine

Thanks
« Last Edit: February 25, 2020, 10:12:11 AM by carlite65 »
Mike
1968 Mustang Fastback GT 390 Raven Black, 4 speed
8R02S162374, San Jose, June 5, 1968

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #35 on: February 25, 2020, 12:13:37 PM »
Just curious if anyone has welded the jacking tabs on their lower control arms. I found a set of jacking tabs. My lower control arms are moog units I think and they look pretty close to original other than the part number and the missing sway bar hole washer from what I can tell. If I find a pair of good originals I will swap them out. Otherwise I have these as a back up. Question is, should I drill holes in the tabs for welding them to the control arms or weld the side of the tabs. I have been looking for a good set of upper and lower control arms to replace mine

Thanks
Drill holes in the tabs . If you do not get too carried away with the welding you can dress the welded holes to look similar to the spot welds. On many lower control arms the paint line on where they were dipped was up to the jack tabs. If you dip cover the complete jack tab and no more then the paint will hide any bodywork done to make your weld marks look like spot welds and also make the LCA look similar to factory.  I keep a narrow trash can filled with paint for just such dipping procedure . I seal mine off in between uses.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline bullitt68

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #36 on: February 25, 2020, 02:49:34 PM »
Drill holes in the tabs . If you do not get too carried away with the welding you can dress the welded holes to look similar to the spot welds. On many lower control arms the paint line on where they were dipped was up to the jack tabs. If you dip cover the complete jack tab and no more then the paint will hide any bodywork done to make your weld marks look like spot welds and also make the LCA look similar to factory.  I keep a narrow trash can filled with paint for just such dipping procedure . I seal mine off in between uses.

Great thanks Bob I will give it a try as I need to do my brake and clutch pedals as well while I am at it
Mike
1968 Mustang Fastback GT 390 Raven Black, 4 speed
8R02S162374, San Jose, June 5, 1968

Offline bullitt68

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #37 on: February 25, 2020, 03:03:09 PM »
Drill holes in the tabs . If you do not get too carried away with the welding you can dress the welded holes to look similar to the spot welds. On many lower control arms the paint line on where they were dipped was up to the jack tabs. If you dip cover the complete jack tab and no more then the paint will hide any bodywork done to make your weld marks look like spot welds and also make the LCA look similar to factory.  I keep a narrow trash can filled with paint for just such dipping procedure . I seal mine off in between uses.

I forgot to ask if the lower control arm is dipped with the bushing installed or not
Mike
1968 Mustang Fastback GT 390 Raven Black, 4 speed
8R02S162374, San Jose, June 5, 1968

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #38 on: February 25, 2020, 07:56:17 PM »
I forgot to ask if the lower control arm is dipped with the bushing installed or not
Yes,dipped with bushing installed.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline bullitt68

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #39 on: February 25, 2020, 08:48:54 PM »
Yes,dipped with bushing installed.

Great thanks Bob
Mike
1968 Mustang Fastback GT 390 Raven Black, 4 speed
8R02S162374, San Jose, June 5, 1968

Offline dkknab

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #40 on: November 08, 2023, 06:43:58 PM »
Great thanks Bob

Old topic but curious Mike how things ended up with your lower control arms.  Mine seen to be original and can use rebuilding particularly the back(ball) joint boots.  How did things go with your LCAs?
« Last Edit: November 08, 2023, 07:16:32 PM by carlite65 »
David Knab

1968 Sunlit Gold Coupe Sprint B
289 2V, AT, PS
Nugget Gold Interior
April 5, 1968 Build Date, Metuchen Plant

2019 Bullitt Highland Green K7662

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #41 on: November 08, 2023, 07:41:52 PM »
Old topic but curious Mike how things ended up with your lower control arms.  Mine seen to be original and can use rebuilding particularly the back(ball) joint boots.  How did things go with your LCAs?
If your lower control arms are rust pitted regardless if original or not it is a waste of time and money to try and put new boots ,re rivet and replace the rear bushing etc. That is if trying to make acceptable for concours judged class's. There are many other alternatives that will give better results.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline dkknab

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #42 on: November 08, 2023, 08:47:40 PM »
If your lower control arms are rust pitted regardless if original or not it is a waste of time and money to try and put new boots ,re rivet and replace the rear bushing etc. That is if trying to make acceptable for concours judged class's. There are many other alternatives that will give better results.

Which ones do you recommend? Scott Drake makes nice LCA but the jacking tabs are not exact. Here's a set I found online ebay.
David Knab

1968 Sunlit Gold Coupe Sprint B
289 2V, AT, PS
Nugget Gold Interior
April 5, 1968 Build Date, Metuchen Plant

2019 Bullitt Highland Green K7662

Offline dkknab

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #43 on: November 08, 2023, 08:59:39 PM »
If your lower control arms are rust pitted regardless if original or not it is a waste of time and money to try and put new boots ,re rivet and replace the rear bushing etc. That is if trying to make acceptable for concours judged class's. There are many other alternatives that will give better results.

I don't think mine are that bad but wouldn't know for sure until they are stripped.  Here's the passenger side.

PS thanks Mike for letting me post a bit here.
David Knab

1968 Sunlit Gold Coupe Sprint B
289 2V, AT, PS
Nugget Gold Interior
April 5, 1968 Build Date, Metuchen Plant

2019 Bullitt Highland Green K7662

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback A-Arm Restoration
« Reply #44 on: November 08, 2023, 11:39:35 PM »
I don't think mine are that bad but wouldn't know for sure until they are stripped.  Here's the passenger side.

PS thanks Mike for letting me post a bit here.

If you go that route and can find the parts and someone to re-rivet you might want to consider tumbling the arms before reassembly and adding the darker details to the spot welds, reinforcement plant as well as all the concours details while you do them
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)