Topic: 1968 San Jose GT 390 Fastback NOS Leaf Springs vs Repro

[bullitt68]

Don't recall ever seeing one stamped like that - horizontal with the leaf, no date and no Ford oval even on a replacement.

Doesn't look like what was used in 68 at San Jose typically

Thats what I thought. Seems odd that it has the part number stamped on it and in that configuration

[bullitt68]

Many - if their originals are rust pitted or just worn out - choose to purchase reproduction and swap or find a decent original short leaf with all the original markings. Reproductions may need to be disassembled and finished correctly and with the original style of clamps depending on your application - year and plant

Then home that the car will sit correctly one installed

Hi Jeff Here is a leaf spring update. I found a set of very rusty leaf springs today. They do appear to be original and correct for my car. I am just in the process of taking them apart and media blasting them to determine I they are usable or not.

First photo shows the set next to the springs that came on my car when I purchased it. They are very rough, but hopefully the can be restored. The price was right, as in free.

The next photo shows the remnants of the original paint daubs, which I assume is correct.

The next photos shows a bit of a science experiment on the bottom leaf that appears to be correct for my car. Can you confirm if the stamp inmates that it could be a good stamp for my car. I think the part number is correct. Not sure about the other numbers. I left the bottom part of the spring alone to show the paint markings clearly. The middle part was just dry media blasted as I wanted to get a good look at the part number. The top part of the leaf i sanded slightly to see what it m right look like if I wanted to try getting rid of some of the pitting for the exposed areas. So far I like what I see and may proceed further with the experiment and work on all of the leafs to see if I can make these very rough springs suitable. FGYI the springs ar not sagging at all. All I am pretty sure that I can salvage all of the original hardware, clamps, rubbers and pads. I have worked on the parts yet, but I am confident I can save them

The last photo is just a comparison showing the graphite vs Eastwood Zinc phosphate paint. Not sure how I will finish them if I can save them I prefer to use actual phosphate. I have no bluing experience, but prefer the most original look possible.

Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

Not sure why it is turning all my photos sideways

[Bossbill]

I used the gel gun blue on my springs as well. I really like how they turned out. Again, media blast, red 3M scuff pad soaked in the stuff, wipe dry. If you have any pits the gun blue stays in the pits and takes on a strange color. Stainless brush to the rescue.
After a few days Boeshield and assemble.

[bullitt68]

I used the gel gun blue on my springs as well. I really like how they turned out. Again, media blast, red 3M scuff pad soaked in the stuff, wipe dry. If you have any pits the gun blue stays in the pits and takes on a strange color. Stainless brush to the rescue.
After a few days Boeshield and assemble.

Wow they look great. I am going to have to look into the gun blue  as I have never heard of it before. I like how dark the springs look and they best part they don't look painted.

Thanks for the info Bill appreciate it

[J_Speegle]

Wow they look great. I am going to have to look into the gun blue  as I have never heard of it before. I like how dark the springs look and they best part they don't look painted.

Thanks for the info Bill appreciate it

Discovered the gun blue repair fluid years ago (early 90's) and have posted about it many times. Have seen the recommendation repeated again and again on forums for other makes. There are some similar products like Insta black and darkening fluid that are similar and available elsewhere. The application and tones can differ depending on how you apply *sipped/brushed on verses applying with steel wool) or what you do (burnish, steel wool or other steps/choices that following the  coloring.

Would suggest looking at a number of "natural finish" threads and the Natural Finish article in the Library

[bullitt68]

Discovered the gun blue repair fluid years ago (early 90's) and have posted about it many times. Have seen the recommendation repeated again and again on forums for other makes. There are some similar products like Insta black and darkening fluid that are similar and available elsewhere. The application and tones can differ depending on how you apply *sipped/brushed on verses applying with steel wool) or what you do (burnish, steel wool or other steps/choices that following the  coloring.

Would suggest looking at a number of "natural finish" threads and the Natural Finish article in the Library

Hi Jeff my bad. My post should have read "Gun Bluing Gel". FYI I have tried some traditional gun bluing with minimal success. The last part I used Gun Bluing on was a drag link and it was a lot of work. It was series of repititiuos steps involving hi temperature water, gun bluing application and constant heat with steel wool rub downs. The result was pretty good in the end but took a lot of experimenting to get close to a result we were happy with. With leaf springs and coli springs it will be even more work I would imagine. I think I may experiment with some other procedures that are less labour intensive and see if they yield a good result. I have a bottle of the Gun Bluing Gel and will give it a go on smaller part to see how I make out.

Her goes nothing...

[J_Speegle]

Hi Jeff my bad. My post should have read "Gun Bluing Gel". FYI I have tried some traditional gun bluing with minimal success. The last part I used Gun Bluing on was a drag link and it was a lot of work. It was series of repetitious steps involving hi temperature water, gun bluing application and constant heat with steel wool rub downs. The result was pretty good in the end but took a lot of experimenting to get close to a result we were happy with. With leaf springs and coil springs it will be even more work I would imagine. I think I may experiment with some other procedures that are less labour intensive and see if they yield a good result. I have a bottle of the Gun Bluing Gel and will give it a go on smaller part to see how I make out.

Yes you don't want to do the gun bluing like what is done on guns but use the gun bluing repair fluid (product bottle shown in the article and thread) Two very different produces and processes - no heat soak in liquid needed. Product has gotten a bit harder to purchase locally since the meth heads figured out a way to incorporate it in the "cook"


Have always used the liquid rather than gel since I only need it on the surface  for a second or slightly more - if applying it straight and not using the steel wool method that produces a different final look. The straight rag, dip or brush method will cause an instantaneous reaction. Only heat I use is just before I oil the item (once the finish is where I want and I've returned the machined surfaces if the part has any, to burn any moisture out and open the metal to let the oil in - somewhat related to how the part was oil quenched when it was originally made. Most of this is covered in the locations mentioned.  Product can be used to reproduce a phosphate look on little parts (up to about front shock mounts if needed) if you need to in a pinch or find that you phosphated all but one bolt (for example) and you just need one more done and don't want to heat up a small cup of phosphate solution in the microwave and do it that way

[bullitt68]

Yes you don't want to do the gun bluing like what is done on guns but use the gun bluing repair fluid (product bottle shown in the article and thread) Two very different produces and processes - no heat soak in liquid needed. Product has gotten a bit harder to purchase locally since the meth heads figured out a way to incorporate it in the "cook"


Have always used the liquid rather than gel since I only need it on the surface  for a second or slightly more - if applying it straight and not using the steel wool method that produces a different final look. The straight rag, dip or brush method will cause an instantaneous reaction. Only heat I use is just before I oil the item (once the finish is where I want and I've returned the machined surfaces if the part has any, to burn any moisture out and open the metal to let the oil in - somewhat related to how the part was oil quenched when it was originally made. Most of this is covered in the locations mentioned.  Product can be used to reproduce a phosphate look on little parts (up to about front shock mounts if needed) if you need to in a pinch or find that you phosphated all but one bolt (for example) and you just need one more done and don't want to heat up a small cup of phosphate solution in the microwave and do it that way

Thanks Jeff I will try it out and see how it works for me and hopefully I get a good result

[Bob Gaines]

Given your assemblyline look direction I wouldn't waste your time unless the parts you are restoring are the confirmed assemblyline type or if assembly line looking type are in good enough condition to have a reasonable unpitted appearance once plated. If too pitted once restored your other alternative is to use bodywork techniques to diminish the pitted look on the leafs and then paint a faux finish like dark gray heat treated spring steel. I have seen some on show cars that are very pitted and stand out because they look terrible on a otherwise restored car. Just my opinion others may have a different one.

[bullitt68]

Given your assemblyline look direction I wouldn't waste your time unless the parts you are restoring are the confirmed assemblyline type or if assembly line looking type are in good enough condition to have a reasonable unpitted appearance once plated. If too pitted once restored your other alternative is to use bodywork techniques to diminish the pitted look on the leafs and then paint a faux finish like dark gray heat treated spring steel. I have seen some on show cars that are very pitted and stand out because they look terrible on a otherwise restored car. Just my opinion others may have a different one.

That is good info Bob. Once they are stripped I will have a better idea, but they will be pitted for sure to some degree. I guess then I will have to decide if I want to go through the effort to try to make them look better or just anti-up and buy a correct set that are in good shape that are not worn out. The idea of using faux finish paint is an option, but in a perfect work I would have a set of nice springs that I can treat instead of paint

[bullitt68]

Well I finally got the old rusty leaf springs blasted today. They came off a friends 50,000 mile GT 390 Fastback survivor. The car is original paint. Perhaps he replaced the leaf springs as he thought they were too rusty. Anyway He gave them to me and now they are stripped. After media blasting them you can see what kind of shape they are in. If they were being painted I don't think there would be any issuing these springs. I would simply use high build primer and sand them and paint them with a suitable paint that would look as close to bare metal as possible.

However I was hoping that I would be able to run bare metal springs. The only way I can think of to do this would be to sand the pitting flat for a nice finish. The question is, is this is a wise investment of time and energy or run aftermarket springs instead. I have a set of aftermarket springs that came on my car, but they look noting like original and I would like as close top original as possible.

Also just curious about the sleeve inside the large back eye. I am assuming that it should be pressed out as well. I was not aware of this sleeve being used on original leaf springs.

Let me know what you think. Open to all comments and advice as always

Thanks

[Bob Gaines]

Well I finally got the old rusty leaf springs blasted today. They came off a friends 50,000 mile GT 390 Fastback survivor. The car is original paint. Perhaps he replaced the leaf springs as he thought they were too rusty. Anyway He gave them to me and now they are stripped. After media blasting them you can see what kind of shape they are in. If they were being painted I don't think there would be any issuing these springs. I would simply use high build primer and sand them and paint them with a suitable paint that would look as close to bare metal as possible.

However I was hoping that I would be able to run bare metal springs. The only way I can think of to do this would be to sand the pitting flat for a nice finish. The question is, is this is a wise investment of time and energy or run aftermarket springs instead. I have a set of aftermarket springs that came on my car, but they look noting like original and I would like as close top original as possible.

Also just curious about the sleeve inside the large back eye. I am assuming that it should be pressed out as well. I was not aware of this sleeve being used on original leaf springs.

Let me know what you think. Open to all comments and advice as always

Thanks

Yes that was in a original set along with the rubber insides . The rubber bushing was inside the sleeve at one time. It was all one piece. You press them in or out if replacing. Sometimes people will burn the rubber out to facilitate removal. If you are wanting to run bare steel leafs then buy a set of the ones Virginia Classic Mustang has sold thousands of for years that look very close to original and substitute the bottom leaf of the rusty set. You may have to do some body work on it so that it is comparable to the new leafs. Unfortunately the set from Virginia comes painted black like so many other after market sets. You will have to disassemble and strip.   

[bullitt68]

Yes that was in a original set along with the rubber insides . The rubber bushing was inside the sleeve at one time. It was all one piece. You press them in or out if replacing. Sometimes people will burn the rubber out to facilitate removal. If you are wanting to run bare steel leafs then buy a set of the ones Virginia Classic Mustang has sold thousands of for years that look very close to original and substitute the bottom leaf of the rusty set. You may have to do some body work on it so that it is comparable to the new leafs. Unfortunately the set from Virginia comes painted black like so many other after market sets. You will have to disassemble and strip.

Thanks Bob I went to the website but it does not show a very good photo. What parts of these leafs are not like the original or what differences should I be aware of

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Bob I went to the website but it does not show a very good photo. What parts of these leafs are not like the original or what differences should I be aware of

The bottom plate has squared off ends instead of rounded like the rest of the leafs in the set. You can grind them round to match or use the bottom leaf of the old set as discussed.

[bullitt68]

The bottom plate has squared off ends instead of rounded like the rest of the leafs in the set. You can grind them round to match or use the bottom leaf of the old set as discussed.

Ok thanks. Odd that just the bottom leaf is squared off and the other leafs are rounded. The original leafs looks like they were cut by hand as they are quite rough and uncemetrical