Topic: 1970 Mustang Upper Ball Joint

[1970 Snake]

I am in the process of getting my 3 rivet upper ball joints riveted on to the control arm and would like to know if the original factory ball joints had a shield holding down the rubber boot or was it glued or how was it held down to keep the grease in?

[J_Speegle]

Hope this helps

[1970 Snake]

Thanks Jeff, looks like there was no shield holding the boot down, possibly just some type of adhesive.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Jeff, looks like there was no shield holding the boot down, possibly just some type of adhesive.

No adhesive. The tie rod boots evolved the same way. once tightened down the boots stay in place.

[1970 Snake]

Ok great thanks Bob much appreciated, just assumed something held them down to stop the greasing process from popping them off the ball joint as newer versions either have the shield or a spring ring clip to hold the boot in place. My concern was if there was a shield it would need to be riveted in place with the ball joint.

[specialed]

The new improved 1970 and up d00z upper boot was designed to be easy replacement when damaged vs the previous years when u had to remove 4 rivets to replace damaged grease boots.  Problem is u cant find the dooz boots by themself so I sent an nos dooz upper boot to carpenter years ago to make but dont think it ever got made. Does anybody know where u can get the dooz boot or any replacements?

[1970 Snake]

hi specialized, the picture I have posted is of my original ball joints which I have refurbished and I believe I have the latest replacement boots available on them, the boots can be purchased from a number of vendors.
Part Numbers are C70Z-3105-B for the upper ball joints and C70Z-3105-A for the lower ones, your search engine will find vendors.

[specialed]

The correct 70 upper boot has dooa-3ao47-a # and UPPER on it by small hole and a metal ring moulded in bottom boot big end hole that is pressed in place around the ball joint so boot dont come loose when greased and originals are very hard to find thats why i was trying to have them made as they fit all 70 and up upper 3 rivet a-arms. The c70zs have no metal  reinforcement ring moulded in them so they need the extra retainer ring to hold them in place before being riveted on. The bottom lip on the dooa boot is much thicker having the metal ring in it than the thinner c7oa bottom lip on the boot.

[Anghelrestorations]

Whoever is doing the rivets on the control arms should know what the correct boots and how to do it. 
But those boots you have in the photos will not work.  This is what the correct boot looks like that Ed is talking about. 

20191009_113435 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr

20191009_113444 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr

20191009_113505 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr

20191009_113514 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr

[1970 Snake]

Thank you for the detailed information gentlemen, I realize the boots I have are not the NOS boots, but as far as I know are the only ones available now to replicate the originals. I am also guessing the ones you have posted the pics of are very difficult to come by and if found would be cost prohibitive. Marcus can you please advise why the C70Z boots will not work.

[JohnRB]

Thank you for the detailed information gentlemen, I realize the boots I have are not the NOS boots, but as far as I know are the only ones available now to replicate the originals. I am also guessing the ones you have posted the pics of are very difficult to come by and if found would be cost prohibitive. Marcus can you please advise why the C70Z boots will not work.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303114491879?ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-53200-19255-0%252F1%253Fff3%253D2%2526toolid%253D10001%2526campid%253D5338313242%2526customid%253Dvintagetruckscarspartsdays.com%252Bsingle%252Bd0oz-3a105-a%252B85.166.174.245%2526item%253D303114491879%2526vectorid%253D229466%2526srcrot%253D711-53200-19255-0%2526rvr_id%253D2139084949806%2526rvr_ts%253Db1f2894316d0a4d1295183c9fffaefa7&ul_noapp=true

[1970 Snake]

Thanks, I see they do come available every now and then, unfortunately these my cost shipped would be about $275 Canadian and that for me is very cost prohibitive, when the C70Z repros are about $12 each.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks, I see they do come available every now and then, unfortunately these my cost shipped would be about $275 Canadian and that for me is very cost prohibitive, when the C70Z repros are about $12 each.

The original boots will keep the grease more in check because of the thicker reinforced edge of the D0 boot compared to the thinner edge of the C7 which was designed to have the ring hold it down . It may have been more prudent to replace the entire arm ball joint and boot as a unit with a service 3 rivet arm or repro  given the compromise on the boot and the time and effort spent on refurbishing the original arm ,ball joint assembly. But that was then and this is now. I haven't worked with your combination of 70 arm a C7 boot before but I don't think it will be a big problem from a maintenance standpoint. I would guess it will be just cleaning up of a little grease that gets squeezed out from under the boot every so often after driving on rough roads. On the plus side the grease will automatically help keep corrosion in the area to a minimum . Just some thoughts for the discussion . Others may think differently. 

[Wills70]

So if I understand Ed correctly, I can use one of the D00z boots shown in Marcus post to replace my torn boot on my Ford service replacement upper arm without having to remove any rivits?
Thanks Will

[J_Speegle]

So if I understand Ed correctly, I can use one of the D00z boots shown in Marcus post to replace my torn boot on my Ford service replacement upper arm without having to remove any rivits?

Yes