Topic: Red Oxide Question

[OSSIE65]

Hello all,

I am restoring a '65 Mustang in Australia to concours standard. This car is not a Shelby, it was ONE of 200 imported new by Ford Australia. It was built at the Dearborn plant 19th February 1965, production no: 640,411.

As I'm the 3rd owner, I do believe it was more than likely originally black underside. I desire to paint the underside in red oxide for better contrast and ease of cleaning. This is acceptable to Aust. concours judges, despite where it was built and its original colour.
I have been advised by concours judges here to contact yourselves to seek advise regarding the correct RED OXIDE FINISH AND GLOSS LEVEL for underside chassis. Is there a paint code available? &/or any information to enable correct formulation of paint would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks and kind regards, John

[Skyway65]

Just curious, why go through all the trouble of a concours project and do the wrong color underneath?  My convertible was built around the same time at Dearborn and had A LOT of white body color underneath with only a little black/slop gray visible under the white.

[thefordshow]

I would agree with Skyway65.  Just finishing up an early '65 dearborn car that had factory dark gray underside from the rad support back. The finish was more a semi gloss look.

[J_Speegle]

As I'm the 3rd owner, I do believe it was more than likely originally black underside. I desire to paint the underside in red oxide for better contrast and ease of cleaning. This is acceptable to Aust. concours judges, despite where it was built and its original colour.

First - welcome John, glad you found the place.

As far as what is being accepted over there we hope (with a little help) that they will join the rest of us on the same page soon so I hate to see you end up with a car that is "dated" but your choice at this point

I have been advised by concours judges here to contact yourselves to seek advise regarding the correct RED OXIDE FINISH AND GLOSS LEVEL for underside chassis. Is there a paint code available? &/or any information to enable correct formulation of paint would be greatly appreciated.

Well if your car was built during the right months and at one of the other two plants that year we would provide the following

The original stuff was an epoxy primer sealer so the finished produce was a very smooth (as opposed to the flat rough finish of many straight red oxide primers) and somewhat glossy to the look. Of course the overspray from the body color and pinch weld black outs will add some dullness where the paint was not applied in  a nice coat such as some of the floor pan surfaces further in from the rockers - remember that the rear wheelwells and exposed frame rail there typically got allot of exterior color and really had a nice shinny finish originally

Over hear most of us (where we can still get it) start with a Ditzler epoxy primer that is red oxide in color and tint it from there - of slightly or much more towards the brown side rather than the red side.

Don't forget to reproduce the drips along all the edges of any panel that hung down during the painting. These bumps are a result of too much paint being applied by the apparatus that the body passed over.

Hope this helps a little and good luck with your choice

[Oz390]

Australia has some "local conditions".  Seen date corect (and probably original) Carlite glass marked lower then repro as it "looked older".  RHD shown as "original" (and not one of the 200 noted by the PO) and beating out truly original cars in better condition (it's sometimes about who you know    ).

If you are going to show it here, pick the judge, as each will tell you differnt things, and do what they say.  If you want it "original" get the info here as its the real deal.... and then accept local judges here have adapted to a standard that is ... slightly different...

[GD64]

In my book they shouldn't judge concours cars if one size fits all (so to speak).
That just gives us Aussie's no cred.


Welcome Ossie65.

[J_Speegle]

Australia has some "local conditions".  ............

Yes we've heard comments and hopefully, like elsewhere, the "local conditions" will change and improve for those trying to get closer to original. The internet, magazines like Mustang Monthly and sites will surely make the process allot quicker than what took place in this country in the 80's.

Every local car that gets built "better" than the rules pulls the hobby towards IMHO better things. Maybe a visit or two might even help more but nothing is changed overnight. Just one step after another

Cheers