Topic: SpeedoKote High-Build 2K primer surfacer sealer -- Black!

[Bossbill]

I was looking for a black 2K primer high-build surfacer for use under semi-gloss black and found very few products on the market.
Yeah, you can buy black 2K sealers, but there is a dearth of high-build surfacers in black.
The reason for black is obvious -- if you get a chip or ding and you have used gray surfacer you will see gray. And you need high-build due to the age of our cars and the rust pits that develop.

So I gave SpeedoKote high-build a try and I am impressed (pic 1).
If you mix it one way, it's a sealer. Mix it with more reducer and it becomes high-build. Weird.

But it seems to work. After letting it dry it gets hard, unlike most surfacers which sand very, very easily.  But it will sand with 180 well enough. It also fills pits like nobody's business.

My rear brake drum backing plates has some issues with pitting. My rear axle housing is even worse. As a test -- and since my housing needs to be media blasted --  I started with the backing plates . Rusty and pitted in a number of places (pic 2). And glass bead blasted in the same pic.

First sanding in pic 3.
Second coat, not sanded yet (pic 4), with numbers taped over so they don't get filled and will get painted with final semi-gloss.

It's $39/quart with catalyst through Amazon.

Edit for clarity

[J_Speegle]

Understand the need for products like this but a word of warning - the use can delete, cover or reduce the fine surface details original to the part and can produce a heavy dipped or coated final product. Like body parts can take on that "dipped in plastic final look we often see on some cars.  Limiting the application to some of the surfaces that need attention rather than the whole surface might be a middle ground if you have damage and can't find nice replacements

I fully understand that similar products are popular with allot of places but there is always another side to benefits of almost everything.

[Bossbill]

Very true, Jeff.

The last pic is meant to convey two things.
* Don't paint your numbers with this stuff.
* See how well it covers!

It will now take about an hour to sand down each backing plate in order to have the product just fill the pits.
It's a primer surfacer and as such acts like a thin coat of Bondo.

When I do the axle housing I will tape over areas like welds and other areas with high detail.

[67gtasanjose]

Very true, Jeff.

The last pic is meant to convey two things.
* Don't paint your numbers with this stuff.
* See how well it covers!

It will now take about an hour to sand down each backing plate in order to have the product just fill the pits.
It's a primer surfacer and as such acts like a thin coat of Bondo.

When I do the axle housing I will tape over areas like welds and other areas with high detail.

Pretty much what I did except I used (black) PPG epoxy followed by Featherfill so I could fill and actually see when the grey went away (sanding) that I had arrived. Mine was very minor in pitting so I topcoated the "filled" epoxy with some obsolete PPG lacquer based SGB.

[Bossbill]

Yeah, I have many quarts of gray primer surfacer. But this thread is really more about color than processes. I found it hard to get black primer surfacer.

The wife's 911 has gray primer. One rock and no more black. Instead a nice white dot.

The rear axle, brake backing plates, front DB shields and front cross-member are all susceptible to rock and accidental scrape/chips. The front cross-member will invariably have a rock chip right where some gray is underneath.

So my choice is to use black (2K/Epoxy) for all of these undercoats.

[67gtasanjose]

Yeah, I have many quarts of gray primer surfacer. But this thread is really more about color than processes. I found it hard to get black primer surfacer.

The wife's 911 has gray primer. One rock and no more black. Instead a nice white dot.

The rear axle, brake backing plates, front DB shields and front cross-member are all susceptible to rock and accidental scrape/chips. The front cross-member will invariably have a rock chip right where some gray is underneath.

So my choice is to use black (2K/Epoxy) for all of these undercoats.

My point may have been missed...(I added the word "black" into my quote and edited my previous comment)

Pretty much what I did except I used PPG (black) epoxy followed by Featherfill so I could fill and actually see when the grey went away (sanding) that I had arrived. Mine was very minor in pitting so I topcoated the "filled" epoxy with some obsolete PPG lacquer based SGB.

So the only grey that remains was inside the "pitting" or other such blemishes.